kt315
Thank you for the links, I'll read into them both.
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good book for start reading. keep it on your kitchen job table near.
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If your not planning on submerging it in to water, you would be far better off with the MiniPulse plus then the barracuda I would say , however if you want a Suba metal detect, Like Tim said, id lean more towards the Surf pi as the long board is easier to house in a water tight container of some kind. Plus and is rather simple to set up the Damping resistor.
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Tim
Thanks for the info on the differences of the two.
Tibuck19
I'm actually 35, my dad retired from work last year so I was also thinking building detectors together would be a good way to spend time together during the winter months..
I work at a university and we have several 3d printers around the campus, not sure what type of plastic they use though. But I'm leaning towards the barracuda build for the beach detecting.
Koala
Thanks for the recommendation, I'll look into the tgsl as well.
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I was also going to suggest the TGSL but seeing how Siverdog only is selling the Boards and not a Board/component Kit and due to the more complex search coil that would need to be made, For a beginner I would suggest it, I was able to buy a coil of Donald which I was very grateful for or chances would be it still wouldn't be up and running. Simplest is a PI, and the MMP is at the top of that list. BTW there is no price for knowledge and pride that comes with making something yourself, even if the electronics was provided from all you fine folks.Originally posted by Koala View PostNope. There isn't a project on here that will fulfil both tasks.
The TGSL-EDU will do a good job in cellar holes and dry sand.
Don't under estimate the cost of building it yourself. By the time you bought resin, graphite powder, cables and so on.
IDX does not discriminate a well as the TGSL and is only better where there isn't much iron around.
I haven't built my Quasar ARM yet so can't recommend it but YouTube videos on the beach look promising
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tgsl-edu is compadre and amigo schematic. ivkonig invented the word to punch brains of the people.
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Nope. There isn't a project on here that will fulfil both tasks.
The TGSL-EDU will do a good job in cellar holes and dry sand.
Don't under estimate the cost of building it yourself. By the time you bought resin, graphite powder, cables and so on.
IDX does not discriminate a well as the TGSL and is only better where there isn't much iron around.
I haven't built my Quasar ARM yet so can't recommend it but YouTube videos on the beach look promising
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yatahaze how old are you ? Personally I think Gifting your father a metal detector you made, is a beautiful way to learn something and make your dad proud of you achievements. you need to figure out what you want out of a detector , VLF or PI, If you Get a PI kit you ll be able to hunt in parks and beaches alike, but you will also be digging up a bunch of nails,bottle caps,pull tabs..... but you will also find all the good stuff too. A good rule I was told about metal detecting is, DIG IT ALL no matter the target.
Do you have access to a 3d printer that prints ABS ? if so I would gladly share my files for the detectors I made , which are the Geotech Barracuda which is a fun easy build but take longer to properly setup, Then there is mini pules plus, which is a Good around Detect and if you are smart enough to follow the build guide to the letter, written up by our very own George ( Thank once again George :-) for all your efforts for us ) its a guarantied successful build. there is a lot of ways you can build a kit detector and keep the price much much lower then you would a store bought one and Learn a lot along the way.
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I have successfully built the Baracuda and like it very much. It was a while ago now, and I did not make it waterproof. Mine has external delay/threshold/volume. I was able to build it without an oscope, but had to use a larger R pot to get threshold. That was the previous version to the one currently available. It has a preset self adjustment, but this could likely be made into a VSAT by replacing the appropriate resistor with a pot. Same with the SurfPI, but for waterproof/underwater it is best to have these things preset as external waterproof pots can fail.
The Surf, being a longboard, can be easily fitted into a PVC pipe type waterproof casing. I also have the SurfPro I got as a completed board off Ebay (tacoma56). He does DIY kits too. It has external controls and is configured for DD coils. With Minelab/Coiltek coils it is a very impressive machine.
These are all PI's designed specifically for the beach, but the Surf/Pro have extensive threads here on their modification for inland and small gold specifics. A fast coil is the first consideration before all else.
As for the technical differences, I am not versed enough to extrapolate on their dis-similarities.
For an IB, and with arduino experience, you would do well to consider berntes suggestions, but coil winding/making could be a challenge.
As for the cheapest option, populating your own Silverdog board and making a PI coil would be best.
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6666
I wish I could afford a new Ace250 for him
bernte
Thanks for the suggestions I'll look into them.
Tim
Thank you for the info and suggestions, good point about bringing a detector to the ocean where the salt can get inside of it I'll have to keep that in mind as I choose the models to build. Are there any major differences between the baracuda pi and surf pi?
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have some experience with electronics such arduino
i think there has to be special section for arduino based projects in the forum. George?
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Edit- 2 good suggestions I am unfamiliar with bernte.
Going from old cellar holes to the beach would require 2 totally different detectors. For old cellars I would use an induction balance, being able to ignore iron and see non-ferrous. My favorite is my old Compass 94B, universally known as the "iron killer". As this is adjustable from metal to mineral., it may be possible to adjust it to work on the beach, but the depth may be compromised. Although I wouldn't take any unsealed detector to the beach. Ultimately it will be fatal for the electronics, as the sea air will inevitably corrode the internals.
The 94b schematic is here, but I have found no comprehensive coil data, nor is there a pcb.
The search function, and advanced search here are your friend.
There are many IB's described here,(with coil data) but none I know of with available, or even layed out, PCB's though. Sascho (AKA scs) has many schematics here, but none with pcb,s.There is one described in Inside The Metal Detector(with a pcb).
There are also several comprehensive documents and builds at the geotech1 front page.
Any of the described discriminating vlf.s should work, but will need high discrimination settings for [rusty]cellars, ultimately making them no better/deeper than my old Compass, and may need a salt setting or coil for the beach. Also most production vlf's are motion detectors (like your BH), only being able to detect in non-motion when in pinpoint or zero discrm (all metal) modes- totally un-helpful in tight places full of iron like fallen-down cellars.
The 2 beach detectors I own are the Garrrett Infinium (waterproof pulse induction) and the MD3080 (waterproof vlf @ a very low 2.4kHz).
Perhaps the IDXpro would suit.
A common starting point for detector builders here is the SurfPI, which would work well at the beach, as would the Baracuda PI.
These three pcb's plus more available from Silverdog.
Making coils for a vlf is much harder than for a PI, and beyond many.
Which detector to make you ask??
It ain't that simple.........
I have a new Tracker IV also, with 8 and 4 inch coils, and a spare new mainboard. It lives in its box as I was totally unimpressed with it. Perhaps the 10 inch would make it good for something...?
I suppose I am a bit spoiled for choice with around 30 detectors.
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