3D printable coil housings

[Tibuck19]

Thanks, my walls are 2mm and 3mm at the upper surface. I will print it upside down and then i want to clamp the connector thing
on it from above.

Maybe my walls are too thick.
The only problem is that im not sure about bed adhesion , i have no problems with ABS, i use ABS Slurry for that, but im not sure about pla at such dimensions.
Had very bad results with hairspray, better results with glue stick but still not perfect.

Maybe my walls are too thick.

There are no 10'' housings at ebay by the way.

For abs I use 3dlac, it works like magic to get abs to stick to glass with a bed temp @ 65C , For pla and nylons and such filaments, I use a hair spray that says something like "extra hold" or " Volumizing " you cant go cheap and use dollar store hairspray, those don't work well.

[BKY1337]

This was my plan. I still need to draw the connectors between the outter parts.

[Tibuck19]

[ATTACH]39332[/ATTACH]

This was my plan. I still need to draw the connectors between the outter parts.

That can work, a suggestion is to also model a top thin part ( around 0.6) that is offset to break the weld joints and add strength to the over all coil housing , If you look at mine the top part that looks like deco is actually used to do just that.

[eclipse]

3D printed plastic isn't particular strong for what coil is used (after bumping into stones it will likely brake).

I would suggest using least amount of plastic (1mm to 1.5mm) and cover it with resin, ideally use fillers (ex: glass fibers 5-10mm long) for the resin in the first coating.

This will make it much more rigid.

I also made the "ears" hollow inside so that I can fill it with resin & fiber mix.

[BKY1337]

[ATTACH]39333[/ATTACH]

That can work, a suggestion is to also model a top thin part ( around 0.6) that is offset to break the weld joints and add strength to the over all coil housing , If you look at mine the top part that looks like deco is actually used to do just that.

I need to leave it plane because i have better bed adhesion. I want to print it upside down.
I made a new one because i made new coils too. The new one is 280mm and 240mm diameter, 44mm Space between.
I hope 16mm depht is enough for the two overlaping coils.

[6666]

[ATTACH]39332[/ATTACH]

This was my plan. I still need to draw the connectors between the outter parts.

Nice.

[Tibuck19]

I need to leave it plane because i have better bed adhesion. I want to print it upside down.
I made a new one because i made new coils too. The new one is 280mm and 240mm diameter, 44mm Space between.
I hope 16mm depht is enough for the two overlaping coils.

I also print them upside down for bed adhesion, 16mm might be cutting it a little close. perhaps try printing a test part before and try putting a mock-up of the two coil thickness first . just wondering, what are you using to draw your coil design with ?

[BKY1337]

Its drawn with FreeCAD 0.16 and the picture is from Cura 3D Printing Software (Slicer).

The new one is 16mm inside and 18mm outside 2mm wall thickness.

[Sean_Goddard]

Now worth the effort with a 3D printer, easier to make a vacuum moulder. Far faster too.

I use a CNC mill for making the moulds, then use the VF (using a VAX 2Kw machine with ALL filters removed to provide the suction).

[Tibuck19]

Now worth the effort with a 3D printer, easier to make a vacuum moulder. Far faster too.

I use a CNC mill for making the moulds, then use the VF (using a VAX 2Kw machine with ALL filters removed to provide the suction).

I am sure its faster when you have a cnc already, and it is up and running, also if you have all the vac moulder made and materials, but if you don't, and you need to invest the money and all the time it takes to set up said equipment for maybe one or two coils, your 8$ coil cost just jumped to a 300$ coil once you pay for all the equipment , and in our case we already have a 3d printer up and running! doesn't take a mathematician for figure out which makes more sense.

[Tibuck19]

3D printed plastic isn't particular strong for what coil is used (after bumping into stones it will likely brake).

I would suggest using least amount of plastic (1mm to 1.5mm) and cover it with resin, ideally use fillers (ex: glass fibers 5-10mm long) for the resin in the first coating.

This will make it much more rigid.


I also made the "ears" hollow inside so that I can fill it with resin & fiber mix.

3d printed plastics can be just as strong as other plastics if they are printed right, yes they can be weak and prone to brake if you don't know how to print them right. I am sure the same can be said about fiberglass or carbon fiber if not made with the correct resin to fiberglass ratio, it will brake like spaghetti loll.

[BKY1337]

I have problems with hollow walls. I had 2mm wall thicknes but the walls are hollow. The housing is very huge but i think it works.
Im not sure about the resin resistance, i will print a small piece and test it when my resin has arrived.
16mm is very close, i have only 2mm to cover the coils at the overlaping area.

Im a little bit dissapointed about the depht of my new TGSL coils. The smaller one had sharper signals and the same depht.
But the new one is a little bit better at big things but its not shielded yet.

I will use fiberglass strips as amendment in the resin to make the whole coil stiffer, epox resin is very fragile.
Maybe i will post a picture when its done.

[blobber]

I will use fiberglass strips as amendment in the resin to make the whole coil stiffer, epox resin is very fragile.
Maybe i will post a picture when its done.[/QUOTE]


I suggest to use glas bubbles or micro ballons to save weight for your coil. Look at this video here.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XnrStRklcUQ&t=190s

Today I finished in this way, an adjustable coil for bandido/tgsl and it is working excellent.

[BKY1337]

I know this video, but my whole coil is very thin and fragile too.
Do the microballoons make everything more rigid?

Ive thought about textile/fabric too. Its light and makes everything rigid.

I fear that everything is too fragile and breaks.
I will need about 420 ml of epoxy resin for my housing, i have black color too for my resin but im not sure about conductivity of the black powder.
Black pigments can contain ironoxide.

Is your coil adjustable at the end too? Or just before you put the resin in?

[blobber]

I use 1mm ABS sheets for vacuum forming, they are also not very stiff. But the weight for the finished coil is good I think.
For the spider arms, I place some foam cores, to save weight too. I add this cores with hot glue and they have a space from 2-3 mm around for the epoxy and micro bubbles mix.