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Whites Classic, II, III, ID, and IDX Modifications

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  • KRinAZ
    replied
    Additional questions - looking over the schematic I noticed it appears the Sensitivity control is only enabled in Disc mode, off for All Metals mode, hmmm. I verified this is how my Classic ID operates - Disc makes no difference in All Metals mode, but does work in Disc mode. Looks like simply jumpering U2 pins 10&11 would make the Sensitivity control always enabled.

    So the question 1 - has anyone run the All Metals mode with the Sensitivity enabled? If so what was the outcome - good or bad to do?

    And question 2 - the manual sometimes refers to the mode switch as All Metal/Disc and sometimes as GEB/Disc - implying that in All Metal mode the GEB is active, and in Disc it is not - is this so? and is this why the threshold disappears when in Disc mode?

    I hope Q2 isn't a dumb question - I'm used to gold specific detectors (GMT mostly & Gold Bug II also) and so don't use any sort of Disc, so these treasure hunters and their Disc modes are new to me...

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  • KRinAZ
    replied
    Today I scored a decent and working Classic ID - complete with 8 new AA batt's - for $70 - yea! Checked it out and did some detecting with it - checks out as working fine.

    So on the way home I stopped by a nearby Radio Shack and got all the pots and resistors needed for the Mr Bill's mod (thank you again Mr Bill!) - and since I have seen posts where folks are asking where to find the parts - here they are (all but the SAT switch, also except the 375K resistor for the slower SAT Speed, see below):

    271-0312 - 500 pack of 1/4 watt resistors (I needed some extras anyway haha) (has all but the 375K which you can make by series or parallel creations from this pack) - $14.49
    271-1716 - 50K Linear Taper Pot - $3.49
    271-0092 - 100K Linear Taper Pot - $3.49

    For the SAT mod I'd like a variable control (like my Whites Goldmaster GMT has) (I'll mark the position for the factory SAT speed and mark it as "P" in Whites tradition) - so I'm going to try out using a 180K resistor in series with a 250K linear taper pot - should give a good wide range of SAT speeds, we'll see...

    And, question on one line I'm not clear on in Mr Bill's instructions - "If your detector uses a ID meter, open the meter case, and replace resistor R28 (3.9 meg) with a 10 meg resistor. This aids in increasing the meter response depth."
    My question is - what is meant by "...meter response depth"? I'm just not getting the meaning of that. On my Classic ID (which of course has the ID meter) what will this mod actually do? - thx!

    PS - I like kt315's post on the Radio Shack wiki ref - made me laugh

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  • KRinAZ
    replied
    Originally posted by TH'r View Post
    The finished control box of my IDX Pro. with "Mr. Bill's" modifications.
    [ATTACH]28084[/ATTACH]
    Nice job TH'r - may I ask where you got those 0-100 stickers for the pots? - thx!

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  • scrungy_doolittle
    replied
    Vr1 is not on the board in the picture. VR1 is the empty pot at the top of the board. This appears to be either a factory build this way, or it has already been modded, and I think it has already been modded, because the label on the box is not painted on, but stuck on. I've never seen whites do that. Do not install VR1 on the board.

    Leave a comment:


  • minewhites
    replied
    Originally posted by Qiaozhi View Post
    Please read the forum rules -> Basic Rules of the Forums
    and make your posts in English.
    Ok Sir I translate with Reverso...........
    Hello, I master however badly the English language it is a chance of a lifetime for me to meet French on this site. Furthermore I know nothing about the electronics, having to buy books(pounds) but not found the time(weather) to plunge me inside.
    If I am not mistaken the SLX version in France was realized at the request of the importer France Detection to whom I bought mine. The regulation on " mineralized ground " replaces a resistance which subsite after the modifications proposed by mister . Bill. By staying on "P" and in the replacement VR1 it should work, in my humble opinion.
    Did you realize the modifications?
    If yes you noticed a clear(net) in-depth improvement?
    In your pen name, 57 is it your department of residence as it is my case?
    I hope that you will make a small tour(ballot) on the forum

    Leave a comment:


  • Qiaozhi
    replied
    Originally posted by minewhites View Post
    Bonjour, je maîtrise si mal la langue anglaise que c'est une aubaine pour moi de rencontrer un français sur ce site. De plus je ne connais rien à l'électronique, ayant acheter les livres mais pas trouvé le temps de me plonger dedans.
    Si je ne m'abuse la version SLX en France a été réalisée à la demande de l'importateur France Détection chez qui j'ai acheté le mien. Le réglage sur "sol minéralisé" remplace une résistance qui subsite après les modifications proposées par M. Bills. En restant sur "P" et en remplaçant VR1 cela devrait fonctionner, à mon humble avis.
    Avez-vous réalisé les modifications?
    Si oui avez-vous constaté une nette amélioration en profondeur?
    Dans votre pseudo, 57 est-il votre département de résidence comme c'est mon cas?
    J'espère que vous ferez un petit tour sur le forum pour satisfaire ma curiosité.
    Au plaisir de vous lire.
    Cordialement.
    Please read the forum rules -> Basic Rules of the Forums
    and make your posts in English.

    Leave a comment:


  • minewhites
    replied
    Originally posted by Tial57 View Post
    Same here in France I can not find much information.
    I think install the mods except ground balance.
    Bonjour, je maîtrise si mal la langue anglaise que c'est une aubaine pour moi de rencontrer un français sur ce site. De plus je ne connais rien à l'électronique, ayant acheter les livres mais pas trouvé le temps de me plonger dedans.
    Si je ne m'abuse la version SLX en France a été réalisée à la demande de l'importateur France Détection chez qui j'ai acheté le mien. Le réglage sur "sol minéralisé" remplace une résistance qui subsite après les modifications proposées par M. Bills. En restant sur "P" et en remplaçant VR1 cela devrait fonctionner, à mon humble avis.
    Avez-vous réalisé les modifications?
    Si oui avez-vous constaté une nette amélioration en profondeur?
    Dans votre pseudo, 57 est-il votre département de résidence comme c'est mon cas?
    J'espère que vous ferez un petit tour sur le forum pour satisfaire ma curiosité.
    Au plaisir de vous lire.
    Cordialement.

    Leave a comment:


  • fodman
    replied
    i just did the mods to an old square box classic III. the pc board is alot smaller than the newer models but still easy to do. i am really impressed with the improvement, it now has more depth than than my 4900 dl max. on the ground balance i used a double stack 50k and 10k pot for course and fine tune, very easy to ground balance. went with the toggle switch for dual sat. the threashold pot is really worth doing, used a 100k pot with screw slot like on the old garretts. cannot be bumped out of adjustment like a regular knob. set it and forget it. will be adding volume, tone control and dual disc control next. glad i found this forum, lots of great information.

    Leave a comment:


  • sinclairuser
    replied
    i would not replace parts unless they are broken, tightening up the tolerances does not allways work, i'd say leave well alone unless it needs it, also if you do mods and replace parts and have problems it will be harder to troubleshoot.

    Leave a comment:


  • ArizFlash
    replied
    IDX Mods & Question on Further Upgrades

    I've been practicing my soldering and de-soldering skills and feel confident that I can perform these mods. I've got all the bits and pieces to start. However, prior to starting I was wondering if I can replace any of the existing components with higher quality or better specifications that would improve the performance of the IDX. Does anyone have any idea as to what can be replaced?

    Leave a comment:


  • TH'r
    replied
    Ron, assuming White's used the same basic board as the PRO, just with some goodies left off, it should be easy. Look back at the schematic on post #84. You would need to add R56 and C33 then connect the 1k linear pot to P4. If not, this should still give you an idea of how to do it

    Leave a comment:


  • Ron from Michigan
    replied
    With the Classic ID,can a pot be installed for a frequency shift.Thanks Ron

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  • Ron from Michigan
    replied
    TH'r nice work. HH Ron

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  • TH'r
    replied
    IDX Pro Mod

    The finished control box of my IDX Pro. with "Mr. Bill's" modifications.
    Click image for larger version

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  • n0xes
    replied

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