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  • dbanner
    replied
    Yes, I know exactly why you make hole at 0.6mm. I do the same thing for self made. My drill takes care of the rest. Cheers!

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  • MartyJ1963
    replied
    @Dbanner,,,,About drill size holes, that's exactly what I do if I'm only making a pcb for myself, I.E:- I put all the holes at 0.6mm on the layout, just so there's more toner coverage on the whole pad when printed off, then I drill the 0.6mm holes out with a 0.8mm drill bit on my Mini-drill press. When I get to the components like Mosfets, potentiometer wire holes, larger diode holes etc I use a 1mm bit and drill it by hand as I go along. Later, when (If) I get better at doing layouts that are reasonably good enough to go to a pcb company for orders I will learn to adapt and use the proper drill size holes in the layouts,,,at least, for now, the smaller drill holes I've used are on roughly the correct size pads so that the correct drills can be used without ripping up a pad that's too small. Thanks again for the help and guidance, really do appreciate it. Regards,,,Marty.

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  • dbanner
    replied
    Originally posted by MartyJ1963 View Post
    Hiya DB,,,,I've done the alterations you suggested,,hopefully I've done them correctly,,if there's anymore changes etc you can suggest just let me know and I'll do them. It's teaching me a great deal and again I very much appreciate this,,Thanks,,Regards,,,Marty.
    Good job! Nicely done. I'm not too particular about hole sizes, my drill takes care of that. I just drill larger holes where I need them,
    However for those who may wish to order PCBs, The correct hole sizes for each intended component should be used so gerber files can be exported to the manufacturer. This ensures that the holes can accept the recommended components in the parts list.

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  • MartyJ1963
    replied
    PI Polones 2019 Redrawn (2)

    Hiya DB,,,,I've done the alterations you suggested,,hopefully I've done them correctly,,if there's anymore changes etc you can suggest just let me know and I'll do them. It's teaching me a great deal and again I very much appreciate this,,Thanks,,Regards,,,Marty.
    Attached Files

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  • MartyJ1963
    replied
    @Dbanner,,,,,,A really huge 'Thank you',,,it means a lot to me to keep learning this great hobby and I greatly appreciate the time and patience that people like yourself give to benefit people like myself in the hopes that one day we give it back to the members of the forum to better their skills in this brilliant hobby. I have learnt a library of knowledge (Not enough by no means) here on Geotech and have the utmost respect for everyone or anyone that give their time and skills to others. I keep practising in the hopes that one day, when someone else is stuck, I can help and do things for them. When I read that people were building this project I wanted to build it too but because the size of the pcb was larger than the copper clad board I have handy I decided to have a go at shrinking it a little to fit the 100mm x 70mm boards that I have plenty of,,but also in the respect that other DIYers may not have larger copper clad boards either. I'm really chuffed and thank you again for checking my layout and I will apply the changes that you have advised. I'll alter the layout and then re-post it and if you have time again maybe you check it again for me,,thanks again, really appreciate it,,,Regards,,,Marty.

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  • dbanner
    replied
    Other suggestions: the 12V and GND for the power supply could be placed to the right or left of the two 1000uF electrolytic caps, in the form of a connector block. This would allow the original GND hole to be used for the coil shield if needed.( I think in this circuit, the coil shield would be connected to battery negative(ground). Others can say if this is wrong.
    L1 could be shifted to the left to be in same vertical alignment with L2.

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  • dbanner
    replied
    I tried to drag a jpeg image unto editor, without success.
    Marty, everything looks good. I changed 3 resistors from RM5 to RM7,5
    I exported the JPEG image but forgot to save the updated Sprint file....
    It is better all resistors footprints are kept to fit 1/4W so as to avoid mounting verticle. The damping resistor footprint should also be changed for possible 1W resistor.

    Marty, all looks good. Very well done.
    Attached Files

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  • Andi68
    replied
    Good luck, unfortunately I have no experience in creating layouts

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  • MartyJ1963
    replied
    Hi all,,,,I thought I'd try to resize the latest PI Polones 2019 pcb in Sprint layout (some people have started building it in other Forums),,because the layout by Jean MrFreitas was about 112mm wide x 70mm deep,,,so I thought I'd try to draw it smaller so it can be made on a 100mm x 70mm copper clad board at home for DIYER's. Could someone that's building this project or is wanting to start building this project please check my layout to see if I have placed everything correctly,,,I practise regularly at trying to 'Shrink' other layouts and it would be nice if someone could take a look for me, then I'll know if I'm getting any better at this, lol. Hopefully it's correct as I'd like to build this project myself through Winter. Thanks in advance. Regards,,,Marty.
    Attached Files

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  • Andi68
    replied
    I do not participate in the project in the German forum.

    I see C21 is connected to the air ...

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  • blobber
    replied


    Same topic.

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  • blobber
    replied
    ESQUEMA ELéTRICO E DIAGRAMA DO DETECTOR DE METAIS MAIS POPULAR NO BRASIL. COM VU LEDS INCLUSO E INDICADOR DE CARGA DA BATERIA E INDICADOR DE OBJETO ENCONTRADO. N?O DA SINAL FALSO. IDEAL PARA QUEM ESTA...


    I found this on PCBWay.

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  • blobber
    replied
    Click image for larger version

Name:	Screenshot_2019-10-26-19-21-41-309_com.android.chrome.png
Views:	1
Size:	815.4 KB
ID:	355413

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  • MartyJ1963
    replied
    Thank you Andi68,,,,There seems to be a capacitor unconnected on the pcb image from the new Polones project? Regards,,,Marty
    Attached Files

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  • Andi68
    replied

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