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PICKINI V4 - an easy to build, self adjusting PI detector

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  • bernte_one
    replied
    has someone done the latest smd layout and can post it here?
    i would like to do some pcb with laser engraver coming weekend and test my new software

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  • bernte_one
    replied
    Hi Bernard,

    one very important info:
    it seems as a result of the coil memory function the detector will perform very bad after changing the coils
    so one simple trick
    after last activity with first coil switch detector off
    then remove the batteries and turn the detector on
    then switch it off put the batteries in and connect the new coil
    then switch detector on
    enjoy and dont get frustrated

    and how often told, dont use indoor

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  • bernte_one
    replied
    sorry, i placed my question too fast, a fact that i could find by myself

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  • 6666
    replied
    Originally posted by bernte_one View Post
    Can i use lm358 as replacement for lm318 ?

    358 is duel op amp, 318 is single

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  • bernte_one
    replied
    Can i use lm358 as replacement for lm318 ?

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  • SWL
    replied
    Ok ... Thanks for the help

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  • BC547
    replied
    Removed all unnecessary ...
    You could also remove R22 = 10 Ohm, another jumper.

    R1 = 500 Ohm: make sure that this is at least 0.5W then - this is the reason why 2 x 1K in parallel was used.

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  • SWL
    replied
    Removed all unnecessary ... See it all right? If so, then I will do PCB... Thanks!
    Click image for larger version

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  • BC547
    replied
    The 10 Ohm resistors in the diagram R14, R24, R19 and R21 should be considered as jumpers on the single sided board and can be omitted.
    @ Goaty: if you really want to make a 1 to 1 comparison with your original build, you should also program your SMD version with v4.0 or 4.1.
    Which could be difficult now that the chip is soldered to the board...

    Looking forward to some scope images.
    My gut feeling still tells me that there is something wrong with your automatic DC offset adjustment of the opamp after startup: the circuit around Q3.
    This should be reflected in your waveform. When you measure it at pin 8/9 of the PIC (TP2 in the schematic), it should look something like this:

    Click image for larger version

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    The noise on this signal is mainly coming from the scope backlight converter ( together with other EMI sources in my garage... ).

    The signal in this picture will give a valid sensitivity setting between 1.5 and about 4.5 V. ( = comparator slicing level to measure the flyback pulse width ).
    Below and above these tresholds, you will hear the error tone ( no flyback detected at the comparator output ) - with firmware version 4.2
    With firmware version 4.1, the slicing level is fixed at about 0.5V below the max flyback voltage.

    When the offset is not properly adjusted, the signal may be clipped to 5V, giving a much smaller slicing level adjustment range and less sensitivity.
    The closer you bring the slicing level to the top of the flyback ( the "widest" part ), the more sensitive the detector will be for small changes.
    Too close => instability.

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  • Goaty
    replied
    @Bernard
    “You could turn the sensitivity pot down until you get the error sound and then slightly up. This should be the least sensitive setting. If you really want to test it you should take it outside away from EMI.”
    Hi Bernard,
    Sorry about taking so long to get back to you but we’ve had a lot of other things going on around here.


    I tried your suggestion again about moving away from interference but it still made no difference.
    I can not fully stabilise it with any setting of the Sensitivity pot. It just gets frustratingly close at one point.


    I’ve dragged out one of my original Pickinis to make comparative measurements of voltages and waveforms but got sidetracked making a light shield for the CRO to try to improve the quality of the screen shots.


    I’m also still impatiently waiting for my order of SMD resistors to arrive from China. Tracking shows that it got to Aus around Christmas but there the trail goes cold. My guess is that it got held up/lost in Customs or by Australia Post. Of course, of all of the orders I made around the same time, the one I particularly need is the one that gets lost! It’s a good thing that I’m a patient person .



    @FSB
    I also puzzled over this but came to the conclusion that the extra resistor was used as a jumper for the single sided board layout. There is also a similar arrangement with R14 and R24 going to pin 3 of the opamp.

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  • SWL
    replied
    I realized ... I thought it was a special trick in the scheme)))

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  • waltr
    replied
    Originally posted by SWL View Post
    Hello dear F117! I read the whole topic, but did not find the information. My question is --- why is this done? Thanks!
    [ATTACH]49112[/ATTACH]
    Common method when one does not have the R values needed or wished to reduce the number of different values.
    In this case wanted 20 Ohms but only had 10 Ohm resistor. So simply put two in series.

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  • SWL
    replied
    Hello dear F117! I read the whole topic, but did not find the information. My question is --- why is this done? Thanks!
    Click image for larger version

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  • BC547
    replied
    @Goaty
    but the range is very limited and still unstable
    Maybe it is picking up a lot of indoor noise?
    When I do measurements on the detector with the scope nearby, its backlight inverter introduces a lot of noise.
    You could turn the sensitivity pot down until you get the error sound and then slightly up. This should be the least sensitive setting. If you really want to test it you should take it outside away from EMI.

    @Boadil: All the best in 2020, including good health and great finds !

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  • Boadil
    replied
    happy new year, thanks for all F117

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