Garrett (pulse) XL 500

[Geo]

Do you use the same system??????.
I solder all components and connect them to power supply, if don't work properly then i start with voltages and later with oscilloscope.
I do not have the patience to try stage by stage, but at most times works with first time, otherway....

[blobber]

In the beginning, I have made it also on the way, to put all together and see what happens.
But since some years, I like to do it, as I described. Better to make it very slowly in small steps, than later to waste much time in troubleshooting.

[reptooyep]

I'm making a SMD version of this scheme. The ATMEGA328p will replace the timing circuit and the ne555 with 3 PWM channels.
The charge pump will be replaced by a ICL7660 and the 709 by a much more effective AMP.
The power will be given by a stepup board with a single 4.1v lithium with a charging circuit.
I'll work on this again tomorow morning.

[6666]

I'm making a SMD version of this scheme. The ATMEGA328p will replace the timing circuit and the ne555 with 3 PWM channels.
The charge pump will be replaced by a ICL7660 and the 709 by a much more effective AMP.
The power will be given by a stepup board with a single 4.1v lithium with a charging circuit.
I'll work on this again tomorow morning.

Are you writing your own code for the 328P ?

[reptooyep]

Are you writing your own code for the 328P ?

Yes,
I've worked on atmega328 for one year but i've never used PWM. It should not be so complicated, the datasheet is full of example.
I think i'll use arduino IDE with standalone chip

[ripsdevala]

Reptooyep, its work, but should waiting for 1 minute or so to be active.
Try it with your build, i dont know what cause of this lag.

https://youtu.be/NgsHsC9OLJM

[blobber]

I am realy happy, that after long time and many messages, while doing troubleshooting, your board is finally working.
Well done, Arief!! Congratulation

[ripsdevala]

Heres your video request sir, 250uh enamel wire, 17cm, 1 minute to start, current start at 82mA, 17cm max air test for coin, sorry for the noisy racing background.

https://youtu.be/XrWHlfVgIjI

[blobber]

Hi Arief,
this is strange...
The current consumption is stable all the time?
For your coil, I would suggest to use plastic isolated braid wire, or you could try the spider coil from reptooyep, made of enameled copper wire.

[blobber]

My coil is made of plastic isolated copper braid, dia 1,0 mm, outer dia 1,4 mm. 20 turns, 21 cm dia, 242 uH and 0,5 Ohm.

[blobber]

You not need any shielding of aluminum foil for the coil.

[reptooyep]

Hi blobber,
I still have troubles with yhe sound but i have MPSA13 comming soon.
Have you seen my post on underwater thread ? Mayby it'll interrest you . .

And congrats to Arief for his working board. I think you should have a trouble with a componment which must heat a bit to have the good caracteristic.
What you can do is making it work for one minute, then, power off and you short cut the power to the ground for one second then power on and see :
If it works without waiting a while, you have a trouble maybe with the 709 or the timing
If you must wait again, it should be a CAP trouble, i would replace the polarized caps untill you find the wrong one.

[6666]

Yes,
I've worked on atmega328 for one year but i've never used PWM. It should not be so complicated, the datasheet is full of example.
I think i'll use arduino IDE with standalone chip

Very interesting it will be something to watch the result.

[blobber]

Hi blobber,
I still have troubles with yhe sound but i have MPSA13 comming soon.
Have you seen my post on underwater thread ? Mayby it'll interrest you . .

And congrats to Arief for his working board. I think you should have a trouble with a componment which must heat a bit to have the good caracteristic.
What you can do is making it work for one minute, then, power off and you short cut the power to the ground for one second then power on and see :
If it works without waiting a while, you have a trouble maybe with the 709 or the timing
If you must wait again, it should be a CAP trouble, i would replace the polarized caps untill you find the wrong one.

Yes, I have noticed that. Well done.

About your pcb, how pity, that you still have trouble. Arief had also some problems, but not with the output on 4066. We solved his problems, while seperating the stages and looking for the input and output signals of every IC. I had not expected, that a part was missing.
Your suggestion should work, to find his start up problem, good.

Yes and for your atmega project, I am curious about your results and hope we can see soon your prototype. Good luck!

[ripsdevala]

Hi blobber,
I still have troubles with yhe sound but i have MPSA13 comming soon.
Have you seen my post on underwater thread ? Mayby it'll interrest you . .

And congrats to Arief for his working board. I think you should have a trouble with a componment which must heat a bit to have the good caracteristic.
What you can do is making it work for one minute, then, power off and you short cut the power to the ground for one second then power on and see :
If it works without waiting a while, you have a trouble maybe with the 709 or the timing
If you must wait again, it should be a CAP trouble, i would replace the polarized caps untill you find the wrong one.

Nice clue Repto, will try with another LM308 as 709, about the deep, its need to increase, will try spider coil like some members make here as mr.fred sugestion, never make one before.