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Building Wolf Treasure [Tesoro Lobo]

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  • Op04
    replied
    Wow...!! That is quite qood performance! When I'm trouble with disc I put higher input caps before 393 100pf to 220-270pf. The 393 chip must be the good one. For switching part, I only have lobo (that works) from vlaser PCB without switching part, I leave to you that switching part heheh... You have convince me to build lobo again. Thank you for keeping update your project here Mr. Luis
    Regards.
    Last edited by Op04; 10-18-2021, 04:35 PM. Reason: wrong spelling

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  • mermelado
    replied
    Continuing with my tests I can already assure you Op04 that the scheme you publish is wrong. To give you an example, I will tell you that all the diagrams that I have seen as a wolf have a resistance of 5K1 between pin 7 of LF442 and pin 6 of LM358, however it does not have it, but is subjected to the switches. This could mean that they are all wrong except this one, but it also does not have the cable jumper in the switches that all the others have and that in a photo of the original Lobo PCB it is clearly seen that it must exist. I am referring specifically to the commutation that has a 10K resistance on its central pin and its 2 ends are coincidentally connected to pin 7 of LF442. So in principle I should ignore this scheme.
    From my tests I think that I am already clear about the correct connection and it is in this same forum. As this matter of the switches seems to be gagged, it also presents a small error and that is that it says that it is seen from behind and this if true would work well, but the switches will be the opposite of the original Lobo. A simple solution to turn them around is to imagine that it is seen from the front, which in my opinion does not change the way it works. It should be noted what I have said before, that the lever upwards indicates connection of pins from below and vice versa. This has been taken into account in that photo, so that for example "RETUNE" which is marked above, actually joins the cables in the center with their corresponding pins below. This is useful for tracking the circuit on the PCB as various designs circulate on the network. This in my opinion is the correct connection: https://www.geotech1.com/forums/atta...1&d=1328510091

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  • mermelado
    replied
    Thank you very much Op04, this diagram did not have it, I will study it carefully, although I think I have already clarified the connections of the switches, as soon as I am sure I will publish it. I leave you a small video that demonstrates the power of the wolf. We're talking about an iron-framed workbench, a loose, unshielded coil, a power supply instead of a battery, and a room full of EMI. The result is about 30 cm for a euro coin.
    Now, once I am sure that the commutations are correct and that I know how to operate the Lobo, which is not easy for me and the manual seems unclear to me, I will start working on the discrimination, since it is almost nil. The reason is simple, there is no phase variation whatsoever, neither between TX and RX, nor while the coil is attached to a metal. Clearly the problem seems to be with the coil. Unfortunately, the information I have found does not seem to match reality either. I will be commenting more things, in case they serve someone.
    Greetings: Luis.


    Note: After much reading, it seems that there is talk of a variation of about -12 degrees, which of course I do not have.


    Here is the video: https://photos.app.goo.gl/gStRpZbsQUxxUjcB6

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  • Op04
    replied
    Here the old version schematic made by guru Darko posted a long ago in TGS thread, I dig so many deep page to get this, the schematic is easier to read. I still don't know if this schematic verified or not
    Attached Files

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  • mermelado
    replied
    My news

    After my first tests, which have not been bad at all, I have come to the conclusion that the switches are wrong or poorly explained in almost all the schemes that circulate on the network, the same happens with the photos of the switches. Too It gives the impression that the fact that these types of switches go the other way around, that is, that when the lever is up they actuate the lower pins and vice versa. To clear up all this mess, I find it essential to understand how the entire complex Lobo switching system works, so the first thing I have done is to translate the manual into Spanish with some help from Google and now I am going to start studying it. I take this opportunity to share my work in case a Spanish speaker is interested.
    Greetings to all and I will inform you all of my advances or setbacks
    Attached Files

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  • mermelado
    replied
    I made a lot of mistakes building TGSL, but I think I hit all the problems, but I got bored and decided to park it for a while. For some reason I wanted to ride the Wolf, if it doesn't work, then nothing happens either, I will always learn new things and by the way then I will publish the first one I have learned, in case it works for someone. Anyway thanks so much for your sensible advice

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  • rolling rock
    replied
    Originally posted by mermelado View Post
    Thanks Ruben:
    I must be a masochist. Look that there are well-documented projects and I get to ride the Wolf "LOBO". ... I think that my great experience failing with TGSL will help me
    Errk... I'm not trying to get rid of you, but because the Lobo is so much harder than TGSL you might better go back and master that relatively simple two filter thingy before messing with this monster. I think TGSL design is much less demanding of the builder and you have about a zillion coils to choose from.
    You're not a masochist, you probably just have a death wish.



    Don't we all!

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  • mermelado
    replied
    Thanks Ruben:
    I must be a masochist. Look that there are well-documented projects and I get to ride the Wolf "LOBO". I guess I like challenges and since basically all Treasures are very similar, I think that my great experience failing with TGSL will help me

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  • Ruben2000
    replied
    Originally posted by mermelado View Post
    Well gentlemen, I finally have all the PCB components assembled, except for the capacitors whose value must be determined by trial and error, now I am going to make the coil. I will report on my progress.

    [ATTACH]56143[/ATTACH]
    Excellent jam, you inform us about your progress. I've had to let it dust my PCB, I've been busy with other things. I see that LOBO is very difficult to make it work, I see several different schemes in various LOBO forums, there are some that have been successful and others have not, you have to be patient and read the forums to be able to deduce which error one makes at the same time there are so many details that one does not know which is which.

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  • mermelado
    replied
    Well gentlemen, I finally have all the PCB components assembled, except for the capacitors whose value must be determined by trial and error, now I am going to make the coil. I will report on my progress.

    Click image for larger version

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ID:	362013

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  • mermelado
    replied
    Originally posted by Ruben2000 View Post
    It is because you have to respect the inductance and the ohmic rating of each coil; it also depends on the diameter of the sensor you are going to build.


    I do not think that the inductance undergoes great changes, perhaps the issue of ohmic resistance is the key, or perhaps the man who designed that coil, calculated it according to his availability. I think the best thing is to do tests on how much the detector has mounted and that is still missing, since I do not have all the materials yet. Thanks for your reply.

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  • mermelado
    replied
    Originally posted by rolling rock View Post
    What would you be trying to change? Weight could be one answer. Of course you would not reduce the transmit wire size unless you like changing batteries more often. But using thinner rx wire will possibly cause your coil to become more affected by temperature changes. Don't overdo it.
    Decreasing the cable section in TX increases consumption? As for what to change, it is not that I want to change, although using aluminum cable to reduce weight is something interesting to try, but it must be taken into account that its resistance per square centimeter is greater.
    Actually, I'm sick of buying cables of so many different sections and I never and never have the correct section at home
    It is also out of curiosity to know why TGSL uses the same section

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  • rolling rock
    replied
    Originally posted by mermelado View Post
    It catches my attention that they use a different section of cable in TX and RX. I wonder why TGSL will use the same for both coils and it makes me want to experiment with that.
    What would you be trying to change? Weight could be one answer. Of course you would not reduce the transmit wire size unless you like changing batteries more often. But using thinner rx wire will possibly cause your coil to become more affected by temperature changes. Don't overdo it.

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  • Ruben2000
    replied
    It is because you have to respect the inductance and the ohmic rating of each coil; it also depends on the diameter of the sensor you are going to build.

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  • mermelado
    replied
    Originally posted by Ruben2000 View Post
    Hi friends I made the coils and ran them with the coil generator with this data:
    TX = 17.83Khz + 40.9nF (+ 10nF in generator)
    RX = 14.62Khz + 10nF in generator.

    Other data obtained from the coils:
    TX = 51 turns, 0.255 mm. (30AWG), diameter 207mm., 51.1 Ohm., 1.588mH.
    RX = 145 turns, 0.202 mm. (32AWG), diameter 207mm. , 11.03 Ohm., 11.615mH.
    It catches my attention that they use a different section of cable in TX and RX. I wonder why TGSL will use the same for both coils and it makes me want to experiment with that.

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