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  • golfnut
    replied
    Hi this is the sort of thing I used to make a lightweight ally muffler for a petrol modle aircraft engine..




    Steve

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  • petravka
    replied
    This is welded aluminum. Later I realized that bending is not a problem. You need to a thicker wall (2mm) and R-6 cm

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  • Jerry
    replied
    Originally posted by ivconic View Post
    There is nice trick how to solder Aluminium!
    Before soldering, merge that Al area parts in machine oil , than use sharp knife and scrape areas which are about to be soldered and joined together.
    Oil should remain on surfaces and will prevent Al to get into touch with air and Oxygen from air and to oxidize fast, as it usually does if there was not oil applied.
    Than use extra powerful soldering iron and solder those two parts.
    Fact is that Al is easy to join with tin if Al surface is perfectly clean and heated with proper temperature.
    Problem lays in fact that Al is oxidizing very very fast when exposed to air.
    So oil is there to protect Al surface from oxidizing, for a moment, until is heated and joined with tin.
    Certainly, ordinary soldering iron (usually used for soldering small electronics) is not enough powerful for such operation.
    I have Weller with "7","8" and "9" peaks and tried all of those to solder Al, yet without success, because it is not powerful enough and Al is cooling very fast.
    Yet, than i tried same with much more powerful soldering iron (300w) and got success!!
    Neat trick, isn't it?
    Very neat trick indeed! and it works. I have not tried anything as heavy as soldering two aluminum pipes but I have used this trick to solder wires to aluminum foil so I had a good connection for Faraday Shields. Although later I found that this was not necessary.

    Jerry

    Leave a comment:


  • ivconic
    replied
    Originally posted by golfnut View Post
    I reckon they are aluminium?

    If the are - you dont have to weld it, you can solder it- or sodder! if american.


    Just need a blow lamp and solder sticks (and a stainless rod to scratch the melt pool base)



    Steve
    There is nice trick how to solder Aluminium!
    Before soldering, merge that Al area parts in machine oil , than use sharp knife and scrape areas which are about to be soldered and joined together.
    Oil should remain on surfaces and will prevent Al to get into touch with air and Oxygen from air and to oxidize fast, as it usually does if there was not oil applied.
    Than use extra powerful soldering iron and solder those two parts.
    Fact is that Al is easy to join with tin if Al surface is perfectly clean and heated with proper temperature.
    Problem lays in fact that Al is oxidizing very very fast when exposed to air.
    So oil is there to protect Al surface from oxidizing, for a moment, until is heated and joined with tin.
    Certainly, ordinary soldering iron (usually used for soldering small electronics) is not enough powerful for such operation.
    I have Weller with "7","8" and "9" peaks and tried all of those to solder Al, yet without success, because it is not powerful enough and Al is cooling very fast.
    Yet, than i tried same with much more powerful soldering iron (300w) and got success!!
    Neat trick, isn't it?


    Leave a comment:


  • golfnut
    replied
    I reckon they are aluminium?

    If the are - you dont have to weld it, you can solder it- or sodder! if american.


    Just need a blow lamp and solder sticks (and a stainless rod to scratch the melt pool base)



    Steve

    Leave a comment:


  • Wiltran
    replied
    MD pipe

    Nice job, did you weld those bends on the steel pipe?

    Leave a comment:


  • satdaveuk
    replied
    Originally posted by ivconic View Post
    Golfnut, Sven1, Petravka - NICE JOB!
    Indeed.
    And also nice new ideas how to do some things better.
    Cheers!
    you took the words out of my mouth

    Leave a comment:


  • ivconic
    replied
    Golfnut, Sven1, Petravka - NICE JOB!
    Indeed.
    And also nice new ideas how to do some things better.
    Cheers!

    Leave a comment:


  • petravka
    replied
    First set screws, after the set engraved plate and potentiometers. Screws remain masked.

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  • Qiaozhi
    replied
    Originally posted by petravka View Post



    Very neat job.
    The Hammond enclosure has 4 screws to secure the front panel. One in each corner. Have you placed your own panel over the top of this?

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  • golfnut
    replied
    Nice work there - keep it up..

    Steve

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  • petravka
    replied






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  • SVEN1
    replied
    Found a used Thermaltake external hard drive this spring at a garage sale for $2.00. It didn't work but, figured the case might be good to house a metal detector.
    The ISGL fits onto the tray that the HD was screwed onto. Only a few mm clearance for the one cap.
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • golfnut
    replied
    Hi, thx - hope its worth the bother! Not many postings for field tests. Lots of Air tests.



    Feedback for silverdog on the IGSL - PCB

    Im taking a flyer but I reckon the pcb designer was making a Eurocard size pcb? (So they may fit into Euro card housings)

    The only prob is its a few mm too narrow and drops out of the guide rails on a commercial extruded case.

    IGSL is 97.1mm
    Eurocard is 100.0mm

    Can this be made the standard size on future kit versions - as the cases available are brilliant.

    I got one of these (we used them for commercial projects in my last firm)

    http://www.rapidonline.com/Tools-Equ...d-panels-74372

    So can we switch to 100mm rather than 97.1mm please
    steve

    Leave a comment:


  • homefire
    replied
    Looking Cool!

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