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VR3 - DISCRIMINATION preset
i see.... so it would be totally pointless to add this.... lol...
thank you so much KT315
i see.... so it would be totally pointless to add this.... lol...
thank you so much KT315
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there is THREE way of DISC tuning, you can note some evoliution in those:
1. 'tesoro' kinda via phasevariator
2. 'white' - after first phase amplitude detecting stage like a same simple adder
3. fixed presets - 5900 & 6000 di pro sl.
FROM THAT you get would there be any advantage to adding a 10k pot while i'm at it??? - TESORO, POINT #1.Comment
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Report On Classic II Mods
howdy all...
i completed the mods to my classic II sl about a half hour ago 7:50p.m. EST.
the trim pot upgrades
VR1 - ground balance - 50k pot
VR4 - threshold - 100k pot
and the boost upgrade
R7 - 51 ohm resistor
R24 - 1 meg resistor
R25 - 1K resistor
*oddly... R25 already had a 1k resistor, but i replaced it anyway for good measure...
as i own and use a 6000 di pro sl, blue and grey(aka:5900), and a spectrum xlt, it took a few minutes for my spoiled rotton perception to figure out how to ground balance this simplistic machine. my first few passes over planted targets were ok, but not the wiz bang effect i was hoping for.on a hunch, i decided to change the coil. i have a blue max 800 i been settin on for a spell, and i figured, what the heck.
i had to re-ground balance, but now i was getting the result i wanted. as i goofed with the discriminator , and sensitivity over my planted targets, the classic was chiping and pinpointing just like it should. next i hit the edge of my driveway, and boom, i pinpointed a rosevelt dime dead center 2 inches down. i swung a bit more and found a small brass bolt about 3 inches down....
i came back inside and put the classic on my bench. i cranked up the sensitivity, and turned down the discriminator, and air tested the the dime and bolt i just dug. using a wooden ruler from the bottom of the coil, i'm air testing about 8 inches. so i am tickled to death!!!
this has been a reasonably inexpensive, and moderately easy project to do. i probably researched it way more than i needed to. it took me a lil more than an hour start to finish. my only regret is that the sun didn't wait for me.
i want to thank kt315, eduardo1979, Mechanic, and of course jeff AKA Woodstock, who started this thread. this is what makes geotech the best classroom in the world.
thanks again everyone for your time and effort
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Use your Max950 coil from your XLT and you'll get a little more even.Comment
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Classic II with 950
howdy juice....
it's nice to know i can go with the 950 on this mod, but i'm gonna go the other way. i bought this machine a few years ago off ebay for my step dad, thinking it would be a good starter detector for him. he never used it, and when he passed away last year, my mom gave it back. it didn't really have the ability i'm used to, so it's been sitting around. i finally figuered i had nuthing to loose by giving this mod a try. i have a blue max 600 that i'm gonna put on it when i get some sun. i'm thinking this'll be a great lil trashy area detector here in west coast jersey, a great place, to be From.
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Check that
C32=.22
R1=1k
I am not sure how much difference this makes, but the schematic show these changes for the max coils too. It may gain you a little bit more also. Wait this is for the series II. Yours should already have these values.Comment
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Check that - Classic II with 950
howdy juice...
2 quick dumb questions
1) C32=.22, is .22 22 ohm. i just want to be sure, for myself, as well as any other do it yourself wanna be's like me. if it is, i have 5 of them in the resistor pack i bought from radio shack cat# 271-312a ( cost here was 12.99 usd ). rad shack didn't have the resistors for this project seperately, but everything for this project at 1/4 watt was in this 500 resistor pack.
2) C32=.22
R1=1k is this the mod i read about that does not allow the calssic II to go back to the older " B " coils once done???? IF the resistors are already there, then it doesn't matter. IF they arent, And older " B" coils are off the table after the mod, i would probably hold off, in case i decided to sell this machine.
( i would put a good working " B " coil on it for sale. )
* I'll go ahaead and pop the classic II apart one more time,
to see if the resistors are there.
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Hi,Originally posted by thepest View Post
how many dioptries the your ocular?
All Whites schematics include3 the answer: ,,...all capacitors are in the microfarad...,,
C32= .22 it is 0.22 microFarad. Translating it to nanofarad: simple relocate dot to right side with 3 places. The missing numbers is set to zero.
The .22 = 220 nF and NOT 22 ohm!
Good hunting
RumcajsComment
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C32 = Capacitor Classic II
howdy Rumcajs....
As i stated earlier in this thread.... Geotech is the best classroom in the world
i have located R1, and oddly again, it is already a 1k resistor. C32 however, is a Capacitor i'm not used to seeing. it looks like a two burnt ciana red chickletts mushed together. i had to get a magnify glass to look at it close (they say the eyes are the first to go)the only makrkings on it are strange to me
, i'm used to the round ones with uf and v. the marking on the cap looks somthing like this
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1 5 4
. .
first row is dash <space> dot
second row is one <space> five <space> four
third row is <space> dot <space> dot <space>
i'm totally lost lol .... i have no clue what the value is, no clue what the voltage is.
i'm learning how little i know everydayComment
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Thats .15 uFComment
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almost Un-confused
howdy juice...
as i was over researching this, i'm pretty sure this is a non- polarised ceramic cap. which means it doesn't matter which way it gets put in the circuit.
If i understand what i was reading about the number, the 1 and 5 are my value, and the 4 is how many zero's to add to get the pico farads, i.e. 150000 pF. but how did i get from 150000 pF to .15 uF??? I wonder if i'm over complicating this
Is it as simple as always ignore the 3rd number, and add a decimal point in front of the other two to get the uF value??? simplicity is often the hardest thing to grasp
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One Last Dumb Question
howdy all...
i found a conversion chart on the net, once i could see the process it all makes sense now. boy do i feel stupid stick: my last question there is no mention of voltage, does it matter with these low value caps????Comment
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Hi thepest,
yes it is an very good site, it is an big family
The 154 it is other games: 154 it is an coded capacitor value, not an direct values. See this page:
http://www.google.hu/url?sa=t&rct=j&...QUYiUWFHmKICQA
For the all general electronic questions please visit this site... and download the pdf:
http://www.google.hu/url?sa=t&rct=j&...y1Me6irIDVZPxg
Good huntig
RumcajsComment
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NEW Question
here comes a mouthfull....
i have a CM 4000/D Series 3 that is unfortunately parts. how hard would it be to hook the intensity meter to my clasic II sl ?????
is it as simple as touch soldering wires in the right place?????
or would there have to be modifications to circuit.Comment
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Quick Question - I have my classic II SL just laying around so I though I'd try the mod - I snipped R7 and R24 and replaced them -no other modification. Everything hooked back up (including tight coil connector), but when I turned it on, there was no Beep when switching on. Unit was silent when passed over surface known targets, when flipped the trigger/toggle to all metal mode all it does it beep constantly - I took it all back apart, replaced the Resistors with original values and it's still either dead when switching on, or in all metal mode, just a constant beep...Can anyone help me put the toothepaste back in the tube? so to speak.
[email protected]Comment
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