Beachmaster Files

[ivconic]

Excuse me for spoiling this with off topic content.
I moved it here:

https://www.geotech1.com/forums/showthread.php?26669-Hot-air-soldering&p=293226#post293226

[Olly]

Updated Build Document

I have updated the 'Build' document which is included in the following doc pack:-

Beachmaster_1.1.zip

As per before, please let me know if you find any issues or if anything is unclear.

Regards

[surfdetector]

R2 has not been included in the BOM as it is labelled 'DNF' in the schematic. I originally had it in the schematic to fine tune the frequency range but found that it wasn't necessary.

You may have a pre-published version of the schematic if yours still lists R2 as being 1M5, the 'Beachmaster.zip' file at the top of this thread has all the latest info and schematic.

Thanks, that is exactly my situation. I appreciate the correction.

[Olly]

I was just looking through my parts order from Mouser and reading the build document and I happened to notice that R2 (1M5) is missing from the BOM. Hmmm, I think that this project is going to have to wait for a while until I can justify another order to Mouser.

R2 has not been included in the BOM as it is labelled 'DNF' in the schematic. I originally had it in the schematic to fine tune the frequency range but found that it wasn't necessary.

You may have a pre-published version of the schematic if yours still lists R2 as being 1M5, the 'Beachmaster.zip' file at the top of this thread has all the latest info and schematic.

[surfdetector]

I was just looking through my parts order from Mouser and reading the build document and I happened to notice that R2 (1M5) is missing from the BOM. Hmmm, I think that this project is going to have to wait for a while until I can justify another order to Mouser.

[Coolmakina]

Hi friends,
can anyone hint this rookie to electronics to depict this?
ground is +12V. right?
and this C14 is connected +12V and Ground (+12V)?
[ATTACH]56730[/ATTACH]

sorry, disregard previous post.

[Coolmakina]

Hi friends,
can anyone hint this rookie to electronics to depict this?
ground is +12V. right?
and this C14 is connected +12V and Ground (+12V)?

[ivconic]

I replaced my broken soldering iron station with this pcb. For anyone who needs it. I did i use

https://nano.net.ua/soldering-statio...tml#comment153

It is hard to open the link with Chrome.
So i used Epic with VPN and collected all the files here:

[ivconic]

Hello master ivica,
I have been using the device on the connection for years, it seems there is no problem.
I don't think you need expensive equipment.
Best regards
https://www.gittigidiyor.com/yapi-ma..._pdp_637215724

I can obtain the same model here:

https://www.kupujemprodajem.com/elektronika-i-komponente/lemilice-i-oprema/duvaljka-i-lemilica-baku-878l/oglas/18178548?filter_id=1630885316

[walkman]

I replaced my broken soldering iron station with this pcb. For anyone who needs it. I did i use

https://nano.net.ua/soldering-station-v1.html#comment153

[gurdal]

Hello master ivica,
I have been using the device on the connection for years, it seems there is no problem.
I don't think you need expensive equipment.
Best regards

https://www.gittigidiyor.com/yapi-market-tamirat/best-878d-isi-ayarli-sicak-hava-uflemeli-havya-istasyonu_pdp_637215724

[ivconic]

Good luck with the build, looking forward to your feedback.
I do apologise that the 'build' section of the document is still very incomplete, but I am working on it alongside my other commitments and hopefully I'll have an update before you get your boards back.
The 'safe' way to build the board is to assemble and test each functional section in sequence. This is how I built my first one, but I quickly realised that it became increasingly more difficult to solder in the SMD parts once they were surrounded by the larger leaded components. Having gained confidence that the first one worked, my process for the 2nd board was quite different and I fitted all the SMD parts first and then fitted the rest of the components before I proceeded to test and adjust.
I would recommend using a good quality liquid flux and a decent magifying lamp for the SMD assembly. My eyesight isn't what it used to be but luckily I have a nice stereo microscope which is pretty invaluable.
Regards

Thanks for the tips.
Coincidently i just came back from a friend who is running pc&laptop service. He is using hot air soldering station(s) for several years. I don't have one yet, so i am planing to buy one soon.
So i went and visited him to talk about that, to consultate and hear his opinion and experiences.
Several years ago i serviced his first soldering station, Gordak 850+. Today i saw 2 new ones, Baku 909 and Baku 852.
Baku 852 is broken. It died suddenly for not so obvious reason, according to his words. Also according to him; Baku 909 is pretty sh..ty one too!
I was interested in his story so i suggested him to open Baku 852 and to try to see what is the problem.
So we spent few hours dealing with that soldering station.
It turns out it is indeed very bad design, actually a s.it for the price.
The heather burned out. Also the pcb is not giving proper outputs.
Also... where the heck is the temperature sensor???!
We dismantled the handle completelly, trying to locate the "sensor".
Yes, the heathing wire was burned, alright. But the "sensor" is not existing at all??
Black and Red wires that comes from the station and through the PVC pipe... are leading nowhere, actually just shorted in the handle?
So... the temperature that is set and seen on the LED display is not real. It is not "read" by sensor but most probably it changes accordingly to the potentiometer position.
Or... both of us are that ignorant and unable to recognize any temperature sensor inside the handle.
So when you see "300" degrees Celsius on the LED display; actually it is not accurate, it can be 260.. or 340... ha, ha, ha! Made in China!
According to his words he bought another handle with heather, brand new, and replaced the old one. On first switch ON; it wont working, acting the same as with old handle.
So we tried to measure the heather resistance on new handle... no resistance at all. Probably broken too?
Also we triend to measure the "sensor" on new handle, shorted too.
Ha, ha, ha!
That's for the Baku 852.
As for the more expensive and more "luxury" Baku 909 (2in1 and more features) the main lack is in fact that there is no air compressor inside large box, the fan cooler is mounted in handle!??
And also showing "temperature" not measured with no sensor at all.
So... total disaster! Wasted money! Job not done. Or partially done with lot of problems... with such soldering stations.
So now i'm in a big dilemma about what to buy? We don't have good and wide choice here on local market.
Mostly (99%) are made by Baku. Prices are "hot" comparing to what i saw inside two of those.
Gordak is not easy to find anymore, it is old model, today considered as real "Merzedes Benz" among those cheap hot air soldering stations.
I am still considering myself a hobbyist. And my budget is quite modest. I don't have conditions to import some better tool from reputable brand.
Nor is easy to import such stuff. Taxes are high.
So... considering all; most probably i will buy the cheapest one here. To be prepared in advance to worst possible scenario.
On the other hand, for almost 2 years i am using ordinary Baku soldering station 936D model, last week i replaced only a handle with heather.
I am pretty much satisfied with the quality of work it provides me. Not bad at all. Two handles with heathers in 2 years is not bad at all.
And 7-8 tips so far. The tinest ones. For precise soldering.
And i do work on daily basis, not too much, but almost every day for hour or few.
So... they are not bad in making ordinary soldering irons and stations... but they sucks big time in making hot air solderind stations.
As fot the liquid flux... it is alright. I can obtain here few brands and few grades of quality. No problem about that.

[Olly]

Using original gerbers i ordered few pcbs at JLPcb.
But i picked regular post shipping, since any other option is with lunatic price, so i will wait between 45-60 days for pcbs to arrive.
I am not in a hurry, i will wait.
When pcbs are here i will assemble one and report here about my impressions.
Until than...

Good luck with the build, looking forward to your feedback.
I do apologise that the 'build' section of the document is still very incomplete, but I am working on it alongside my other commitments and hopefully I'll have an update before you get your boards back.

The 'safe' way to build the board is to assemble and test each functional section in sequence. This is how I built my first one, but I quickly realised that it became increasingly more difficult to solder in the SMD parts once they were surrounded by the larger leaded components. Having gained confidence that the first one worked, my process for the 2nd board was quite different and I fitted all the SMD parts first and then fitted the rest of the components before I proceeded to test and adjust.

I would recommend using a good quality liquid flux and a decent magifying lamp for the SMD assembly. My eyesight isn't what it used to be but luckily I have a nice stereo microscope which is pretty invaluable.

Regards

[ivconic]

Using original gerbers i ordered few pcbs at JLPcb.
But i picked regular post shipping, since any other option is with lunatic price, so i will wait between 45-60 days for pcbs to arrive.
I am not in a hurry, i will wait.
When pcbs are here i will assemble one and report here about my impressions.
Until than...

[Qiaozhi]

In case anyone is interested, here are the KiCad schematic and PCB design files for the project.
These were saved with KiCad Version 6.0

[ATTACH]56651[/ATTACH]

Feel free to adapt or amend these in any way you wish.

Regards

Installed KiCad 6.0.1 on Linux Mint 20.3 (Una) with Cinnamon 5.2.7 desktop.
KiCad appears to have been greatly improved since I looked at it some time ago.