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  • Qiaozhi
    replied
    Originally posted by blobber View Post
    Sorry, but I can not upload the file, can someone explain, how to do that!
    Originally posted by blobber View Post
    Yes I've already tried this, but it's not working. Maybe I have still less posts in this forum.
    That's not the problem. Sprint layout files are not one of the formats accepted by the forum. Under the Manage Attachments button there is a list of accepted formats. You will need to compress the file first using either zip or rar, and you also need to be aware that there are size limits on what can be uploaded.

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  • blobber
    replied
    I think you need to buy an oscilloscope, it seems to me, that you has made the same version like me. Without oscilloscope I was not able to check all testing points and to get the best wave forms, point by point. Also for coil nulling process, it was much easier for me.
    There are different ways to get one cheap. I use this one:

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  • blobber
    replied
    Yes I've already tried this, but it's not working. Maybe I have still less posts in this forum.

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  • ripsdevala
    replied
    Go to reply, click advance and find attachment button

    Nice job, can use it for the next build, after I finish mine.....

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  • blobber
    replied
    Maybe someone is interested, this is my Sprint-Layout5 version, which I've builded and is working well. I think it is also TGSL1265 from Ivconic, first post in this thread, but I made the plate a bit smaller by moving some components.
    Also I added Sens and Disc trimmer, for temporary purposes to adjusting TGSL, because I don't like too much wires on the board while experimenting..
    The yellow numbers are the oscilloscope testing points, in accordance to the introduction TGSL_101_PART1 from Don Bowers, it was a very helpful document for me.
    And the white marks X;Y;+8V;Batt.;Ground are the connections for VDI by Whites IDX from Eduardo.
    The audio switch I've not used, instead of this switch, I've used the fixed 1M resistior. As I remember right, it gives more audio volume, while using loudspeaker.
    Well, I know there are many different versions of this project and maybe people are confused about it...

    Click image for larger version

Name:	TGSL with some mods.jpg
Views:	1
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ID:	346280

    Sorry, but I can not upload the file, can someone explain, how to do that!

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  • ripsdevala
    replied
    Thanks for the clue blober, i just relize there is gerund loop from coil to pcb wire (double ground) and change UA741 with TL071 will reduce the beepiing

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  • blobber
    replied
    Of course, 40 cm with Sens set to maximum.

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  • blobber
    replied
    This sound is normal, when you put Sens level too high.
    With my TGSL, I had the same problem with short distance for coin detection. Until I realized, that Ground Balance Pot (trimmer) is very important, to get good distance for coin.
    In my case, I reduced Sens and GB Pot to minimum, than by swinging ferrit rod over coil, in a distance of 10 cm, until ferrit starts to rejected. And from this point, until the ferrit is totally rejected, I have the best distance for coin detection, in my case it is 40 cm for 1 Euro. With bad setup GB, I also have 15-20 cm.
    Good luck!!
    Fred

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  • ripsdevala
    replied
    How to remove this tet...tet..tet... chaterring sound
    Can shut it only when geb and sens at lower

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  • ripsdevala
    replied
    Im sure all solder joint is ok,
    parts...ok
    coil specs...ok
    Batt....ok
    Wiring...ok
    Nulling...ok
    Reject ferrite...ok
    Disc...ok



    Okay... maybe i should make v3

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  • CDI
    replied
    Originally posted by ripsdevala View Post
    CDI are you sure to reposition 2k2 with 4k7, because in the sceme and pcb layout is correct.

    On post 66
    Im sure, cause i maked 3 version's of 1265 and all worked in that setup.

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  • rickb
    replied
    Generally speaking this kind of shielding will result in a loss of sensitivity even if there is a gap in the shield. Try using sheets of cardboard or thin plastic covered on 1 side with graphite paint. Connect a wire to each sheet with a plastic nut & screw or conductive epoxy. Put one sheet above and below the coil assembly and attach the wires to circuit ground. There are a lot of variations of this technique that will work, such as painting the inside of the upper and lower covers.

    See this post. http://www.geotech1.com/forums/showt...006#post208006

    Rick

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  • ripsdevala
    replied
    0.25mm cooper wire, 0.00 nulling, same distance 15cm, oooh why....

    HELLLP....

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  • ripsdevala
    replied
    Using 0.25 cooper wire 110 turn and get 11mH, what the....

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  • ripsdevala
    replied
    New coil have same distance, slightly reduced.
    Btw I use 0.3mm instead of 0.25mm wire, will make another with 0.25 for sure.

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