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Also im curious you coil guys i was thinking back to my Tesla coil days and i know the primary coils where copper tubing any of you guys tried making one with tubing or does it give off to much skin effect because its hollow also have you tapped coils at different places to get different inductances and ever messed with that instead of just winding a coil to a certain length maybe its just me seeing similarities between the two
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Yes i was i used what i found in a waterproof speaker and in the ohm range that was listed but that still doesn't explain 12 volts on the positive side of the speaker i assume it fried that speaker also if it is a short or wrong installed part it could of taken out something else i have the 5 volts on both test point 14 and 15 and have a wave form coming out the TX but im as far as i can go until i get some more expendable cash im bust for awhile after having to buy the parts the oscilloscope and new multimeter i need to get Georges book a pole a coil a Arm rest coil cable and some other minor parts plus whatever might of toasted
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Hopefully you are not using an 8 ohm speaker. High impedance headphones are a better fit for this Original Voodoo.Originally posted by SilverSurfer17 View Postthe speaker was hot checked it numerous times and no visible shorts
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Yes.. sure will!! I by moving everything over to my protoboard It’s a good check. You guys are too fast sometimes. More in a bit..Originally posted by Altair View PostDon,
please take look to your breadboard and update it's schematic!
We need to know how to proceed.
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Well i figured out a few things with this experiment when someone says you can go higher wattage on a resistor thats not always the better option for fitment not knowing higher wattage means bigger resistor checked the board 4 times for any shorts none seen plugged it in turned it on got a few beeps a pop and nothing checked the speaker out put and it has 12 volts coming out of the positive for the speaker and the speaker was hot checked it numerous times and no visible shorts
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Ohh, sorry to everyone, you rigth!
I meant: R54 (22K) must be connected to pin 1 of U29 (40106).
About: "-C25 and the third gate of 40106 don't should be needed if modification at post #956 will be made" I meant that if the modification described at post #956 will be made, probably C25 and the third gate of 40106 will no needed anymore: a direct connection between pin 2 of U29 and pin5 U2 will be required instead.
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Originally posted by Altair View PostMoreover, to do delay line with smith trigger the pull-up resistor must be connected to the input gate pin, not at the output.
Referred to the schematic:
-R48 must be on pin 5 of 40106;
-R22 must be on pin 1 of 40106;
-C25 and the third gate of 40106 don't should be needed if modification at post #956 will be made.
This is confusing, you said "-R22 must be on pin 1 of 40106;" do you mean resistor 54 which has a value of 22K ? going by pin number changes in post #952
R22 which is 270K is on pin 1 and 2 of U3a
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Don,
please take look to your breadboard and update it's schematic!
We need to know how to proceed.
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Actually you are saying that schematic i posed is having more errors? Therefore the pcb too?Originally posted by dfbowers View Post... I found a few other minor errors too.. Wrong pin labels, and a cap showing connected to rail voltage instead of ground. I changed a couple of resistor values too but nothing major...
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My pcb arrived half an hour ago.
So...
Would be good if you use this free software: https://www.expresspcb.com/
(Classic or Plus, the same)
and apply all the changes by your own , using schematic file i posted several times here.
Software is easiest possible to use for drawing and editing.
You need only 5 minutes to adapt on using it.
Goal is to have here most proper and accurate schematic.
With pcb that arrived now; i am not sure what to do?
Should i solder the components like on my pcb draw or should i make further "surgery" on it?
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Yes.. Good catch! Last evening I caught the same error. You just beat me to the post. I started moving everything off my breadboard to a protoboard to take our experiment to real world testing. I found a few other minor errors too.. Wrong pin labels, and a cap showing connected to rail voltage instead of ground. I changed a couple of resistor values too but nothing major. The basic scheme is unchanged.Originally posted by Altair View PostMoreover, to do delay line with smith trigger the pull-up resistor must be connected to the input gate pin, not at the output.
Referred to the schematic:
-R48 must be on pin 5 of 40106;
-R22 must be on pin 1 of 40106;
-C25 and the third gate of 40106 don't should be needed if modification at post #956 will be made.
Thanks.
Don..
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Moreover, to do delay line with smith trigger the pull-up resistor must be connected to the input gate pin, not at the output.
Referred to the schematic:
-R48 must be on pin 5 of 40106;
-R22 must be on pin 1 of 40106;
-C25 and the third gate of 40106 don't should be needed if modification at post #956 will be made.
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About last Ivconic schematic, It may be that C27 not need to be connected to pin 3 of U1 but instead to the Q1 collector.
Dfbowers, could you check if it's true?Attached Files
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