. I was searching info about Mylar and anti static bags when I get link to this.
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Thanks, get confused by the description. Remain with exactly opposite impression
. I was searching info about Mylar and anti static bags when I get link to this.
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Mu-metal is for MAGNETIC shielding and is NOT what you want in a detector coil since you want the Magnetic field to reach any metal target.Originally posted by nonkapo View PostWhat about this?
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mu-metal
The shield of detector coils needs to be an Electrostatic shield. This blocks electrical fields but not magnetic fields.
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After many trials, my experimental mixture contains a colorless acrylic water-proof lacquer and powdered graphite in a ratio of ~ 35g / 100ml, the layer resistance after complete drying (2 ... 3 days) is between 1kOhm and below 500 Ohm / cm. I support the screening path with a thin layer of carbon fiber over the entire length. Of course, remember about the gap in the screen, not to "complete turn" not short in which induce power and lose energy field. Paint should be "thick", but evenly possible, without returning the special attention to the details that are more important to obtain the desired effect.
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i do not use it. i just gave a link, not recommended. i use graphite spray.
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I noticed that this is also available as sheets of conductive cloth.Originally posted by kt315 View Posthttp://www.ebay.com/itm/20M-One-Side...Db6ommHbF-hoUg
20M One Side Conductive Fabric Cloth Adhesive Tape Roll Shield Repair Tool EMI
https://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_...bric+&_sacat=0 (scroll down towards the bottom of the list)
Has anyone tried this for shielding coil housings?
How would it compare with graphite coatings?
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A fair stiff paste comes out with a resistance of 1K per square after 24 hours of drying. Spread it on the card with the back of a spoon.Originally posted by kt315 View PostPVA kills conductivity, i wrote about that many times.
Works well enough in the field on both my Bandido and IDX coils
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Never tried it so no idea.Originally posted by 6666 View PostHe may mean this ?
https://www.bunnings.com.au/ormonoid...paint_p0961345
Seems something's work fine and others stay open circuit. Thought it was as a solvent evaporated forced the particle closer together but tried a few solvent based glues some work some don't. Settled on PVA as cheap. Mix to a stiff tooth paste. Dries very quick. Resistance goes down after 24 hours.
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If that's measured on the surface it will be less at the bottomOriginally posted by ripsdevala View PostWith white glue for woods i get 10k-30k/cm is this good enough?
I place some copper slug tape on card then solder a tap wire to it and paint the graphite/pva over the top.
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