Tesoro Toltec II

[ivconic]

Hi Ivica !

I dont remeMber if i told you but a friend of mind ask me to buy years ago a DELEON/HAWKEYE/CORTES empty control box for 65 euros.........with a speaker .Anyway he modded a cibola without much electronic equipment and did put all the knobs he wanted on the PCB ,like switch frequency (forgot the frequencies) but he equiped the CIBOJON (as we called it),with the superb elliptical from a Troy X5,and the performances were amazing he even did a 1 to 1 comparaison test with the owner of a Famous french metal detector company and the CIBOJON amazed him on a small gold nugget............
RR

Obviously Tesoro detectors are widely accepted and popular world wide. Another proof that it is wrong for them to vanish from market.
We don't copy the stuff we don't like. We do copy and mod the stuff we do really like.
And Tesoro is the one of most copied in History.

[Rivers rat]

Hi Ivica !

I dont remeMber if i told you but a friend of mind ask me to buy years ago a DELEON/HAWKEYE/CORTES empty control box for 65 euros.........with a speaker .Anyway he modded a cibola without much electronic equipment and did put all the knobs he wanted on the PCB ,like switch frequency (forgot the frequencies) but he equiped the CIBOJON (as we called it),with the superb elliptical from a Troy X5,and the performances were amazing he even did a 1 to 1 comparaison test with the owner of a Famous french metal detector company and the CIBOJON amazed him on a small gold nugget............


RR

[ivconic]

These kinds of prints are complex, so there is always hard trade off between desired quality and printing time.
Some complex parts would print for so many hours if set to be printed in finest quality.
In case of testing prototype it would be total waste of time and energy.
What's worse; on object like, for example this enclosure is; there are parts which are to be printed in different quality setups (profiles).
You don't want to waste too much time on inner parts and surfaces, while certainly you'll want outer visible surfaces to be smoother and nicer.
I printed this black enclosure and i don't really like some surfaces. Ok, it is only testing prototype, but i would like better visible surfaces.
After so many prints so far; i am still learning new things.
I came across this interesting video and it makes a lot of sense to me:

[ivconic]

[ivconic]

Actually, to me, the glass is twice as big as it needs to be.

You are modest man.
I was thinking again about your observation; yes it makes sense.
It is not rare case that some of the best designs are generated from coincidental occurrences and conditions.
There are some "rules" in nature which we are still not able to fully understand.
Sometimes is like "somebody" from "above" is precisely pulling our strings and forcing us to do something right... or wrong.

[ivconic]

Oh i forgot something important to say!
There is experimental feature in Cura; the "tree" support.
I tried it and in some cases it is doing splendid job!
It slows down printing a bit. But results on prints are astonishing.
Very easy removable supports, no marks and no ugly parts.
Only drawback is in slowing down some complicated prints.
Also slicer sometimes needs 5x more time to slice the object.
But this mostly depends on computer performances.
I have now modest computer.

[ivconic]

Thanks, I am useing cura 4.0.0 , I find it gives me less stringing, and I mainly use the default "normal" with a little tweaking mainly layer height and Z distance, I mainly print small items with lots of surface detail (1:100 ww2 tanks and cars ) and supports can ruin the surface , the Z Distance can have a huge difference in how easy they are to remove.
Most of my print profiles have come from facebook, but have had varying results, but I generally make the Z distance equal layer height.
If I am just prototyping, I will print at .28, and not mess too much with other settings , but its good to discuss what other people are doing.
Another hot day coming up here but cannot open any windows as the air is filled with bush fire smoke and it smells bad

This is productive to me, because from now on i will pay more attention on Z distance.
I had certain problems with supports at some prints.
They affect surface and make it ugly. Later i have additional work to smooth them. Usually sharp blade and sanding paper.
That's why i adopted habit to "plan" carefully when drawing. In advance i try to adapt drawing to be later printed with "ugly" sides hidden somehow.
But now you gave me idea to experiment more with Z distance and try to minimize the problem.

[6666]

I use defaults for "Normal" profile. It's 0.1mm Z distance and 0.15mm layer height.

Thanks, I am useing cura 4.0.0 , I find it gives me less stringing, and I mainly use the default "normal" with a little tweaking mainly layer height and Z distance, I mainly print small items with lots of surface detail (1:100 ww2 tanks and cars ) and supports can ruin the surface , the Z Distance can have a huge difference in how easy they are to remove.
Most of my print profiles have come from facebook, but have had varying results, but I generally make the Z distance equal layer height.
If I am just prototyping, I will print at .28, and not mess too much with other settings , but its good to discuss what other people are doing.
Another hot day coming up here but cannot open any windows as the air is filled with bush fire smoke and it smells bad

[dbanner]

Very cool PCB!

Have you made it?

No, I haven't.

Some guy going by the forum name of De Patoche on the TSF-Radio forum posted those files in 2016. Looks like he made the fancy board and made a clone of the bandidoIIuMax.
I got them from that forum, perhaps he posted them somewhere here as well.

http://www.tsf-radio.org/forum/forum.php?show=252976

[Qiaozhi]

Yes that makes sense too.
You see; that's the difference between me and you!
To you the glass is half empty and to me the glass is usually half full!
I like to think it is design feature!

Actually, to me, the glass is twice as big as it needs to be.

[ivconic]

Seems like you are going all in on this one, so here some files. The components placement for the fancy pancy board layout are in eagle.
I look forward to seeing your "BandidoIIIuMax", complete with the new box. I know it is too good to resist for you.
You are diy'er junkie.

I proudly admit that.
I can't imagine my life without that.

[Nandor]

Very cool PCB!

Have you made it?

[dbanner]

Seems like you are going all in on this one, so here some files. The components placement for the fancy pancy board layout are in eagle.
I look forward to seeing your "BandidoIIIuMax", complete with the new box. I know it is too good to resist for you.
You are diy'er junkie.

[ivconic]

Yes, that makes a lot of sense. If that is the reason then it worked out nicely for the tesoro box, it made the box quite good looking.
Of course the designer must take credit for the gradient of the slope.
That has to be one one the best chassis box designs ever, for a metal detector.

Here is a PCB designd to fit in such a box, A bandido circuit.

That's really cool!
I wanted to see that, indeed!
Thanks!

[ivconic]

If the original case is injection moulded, then the angle is required to ease removal of the part from the mould.
In that case it's more likely to be a necessary part of the manufacturing process rather than a design feature.

Yes that makes sense too.
You see; that's the difference between me and you!
To you the glass is half empty and to me the glass is usually half full!
I like to think it is design feature!