Pulse Star II (first analog version)

[kt315]

So these two jumpers are not drawn in the schematic, which means the schematic is not complete and has flaws.

DISC board is filled by epoxy and that why it is invisible. the pcb is above on a photo and you have to see mark DISC PCB on it.

[Mehr076]

Otherwise it is true that there are two jumpers in the epoxy resin! So it happens that the device when we put all the original components back on the pcb records without the included coil! With the coil on it works normally! The only thing that can be noticed is that the battery indicator needle shows that the battery is not fully charged even though it is full. So I made a scheme to avoid those problems! I intended to solve the problem with the short circuit in a while when I have more time.

So these two jumpers are not drawn in the schematic, which means the schematic is not complete and has flaws.

[Orbit]

Otherwise it is true that there are two jumpers in the epoxy resin! So it happens that the device when we put all the original components back on the pcb records without the included coil! With the coil on it works normally! The only thing that can be noticed is that the battery indicator needle shows that the battery is not fully charged even though it is full. So I made a scheme to avoid those problems! I intended to solve the problem with the short circuit in a while when I have more time.

[Orbit]

I don't have a lot of time and I completely neglected the old 2 pulse, but anyone can rearrange the symbols on the diagram regarding the voltage, everything else is the same as on the pcb! With pcb, the symbols gnd + bat - etc can be properly marked!

[Orbit]

This is not a reason for the device not to work! The scheme is not in order because it was important to me that it works for me, that's why there is also a comment in Serbian regarding the voltage, the rest is perfectly fine.

[Mehr076]

So no one has the complete schematic of it.

[Orbit]

all value of the detector is a pcb of discrimination. but they do not do it because are not able accurately delete epoxy. on this board in epoxy layer are tiny wires like jumpers and every time they delete the epoxy they break them invisibility. so direct coping of the pcb brings nothing - pcb is not working like waiting.

[Mehr076]

all value of the detector is a pcb of discrimination. but they do not do it because are not able accurately delete epoxy. on this board in epoxy layer are tiny wires like jumpers and every time they delete the epoxy they break them invisibility. so direct coping of the pcb brings nothing - pcb is not working like waiting.

So even then the schematic is not complete.

[kt315]

Yes, I've looked at the schematic, it's a mess. I have no idea if it is correct or not, but several people have said they built it and it works. If your board does not work then you have to troubleshoot it, no one here is going to be able to tell you what is wrong with it.

all value of the detector is a pcb of discrimination. but they do not do it because are not able accurately delete epoxy. on this board in epoxy layer are tiny wires like jumpers and every time they delete the epoxy they break them invisibility. so direct coping of the pcb brings nothing - pcb is not working like waiting.

[Carl-NC]

Yes, I've looked at the schematic, it's a mess. I have no idea if it is correct or not, but several people have said they built it and it works. If your board does not work then you have to troubleshoot it, no one here is going to be able to tell you what is wrong with it.

[Mehr076]

Honestly, the schematic is a mess but U1a is a rail splitter and its output should be 0V, but if the supplies are as labeled then it will actually be 1V.

This is the schematic, Mr. Carl.

[Mehr076]

Honestly, the schematic is a mess but U1a is a rail splitter and its output should be 0V, but if the supplies are as labeled then it will actually be 1V.

Yes, you are right, it is exactly like that.

[Mehr076]

Here is the form that I made and it works and the circuit is there instead of REF25Z 2.5 V I use an analog LM385Z-2.5 also an analog in place of BUZ71 using IRF2807 you can use analogs that are at hand first turn on the power supply +12 is GND you must have +5 and -5 volts to the integrals opposite it, connect the green LED, when you turn on the power supply, the diode lights up and after a second it goes out, if the diode lights up constantly the power supply is not ok, but check with a multimeter before continuing soldering it is not difficult you will learn it clearly you have not made similar devices and therefore you have difficulties and where on the circuit it is -10 volts you may have -11, but measure as I wrote above put a new board and you will do it.

Hello, thank you for your explanation, Yes, when I measure the negative voltage, it shows 11 volts negative instead of 10 volts negative!

[algan]

Is this sechematic a power supply, and how many volts should the output be?

Here is the form that I made and it works and the circuit is there instead of REF25Z 2.5 V I use an analog LM385Z-2.5 also an analog in place of BUZ71 using IRF2807 you can use analogs that are at hand first turn on the power supply +12 is GND you must have +5 and -5 volts to the integrals opposite it, connect the green LED, when you turn on the power supply, the diode lights up and after a second it goes out, if the diode lights up constantly the power supply is not ok, but check with a multimeter before continuing soldering it is not difficult you will learn it clearly you have not made similar devices and therefore you have difficulties and where on the circuit it is -10 volts you may have -11, but measure as I wrote above put a new board and you will do it.

[moodz]

...or whoever drew this schematic was smoking something. Depends what you call ground reference but with a voltmeter from -12 ( AKA neg of battery ) you could say 2 volts or -10 from +12 (AKA pos of battery).
Havent seen the rest of the schem but the labelling is crap.
LOL