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  • kt315
    replied
    Originally posted by Tanu View Post
    Can someone tell me how to make big coil Housing?
    50 cm round mono coil
    in folder of the Archive HUGE COILS you will seek all kinds of the coils, digest.

    Click image for larger version

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  • Tanu
    replied
    Can someone tell me how to make big coil Housing?
    50 cm round mono coil

    Leave a comment:


  • Malospelos
    replied
    It's okay, I understand.

    I had thought about putting a helical cap on it.

    And then it occurred to me not to fill the coil with epoxy, to solidify it completely and make a slot to insert the helical cable and seal it with thermal silicone.
    The blue line is the cable with the helical sheath, this way I avoid filling the entire coil with epoxy and close the 4mm slot that the cable has with silicone.

    The coil material is nylon.​The coil is manufactured on a CNC machine in one piece with a slot for the cable.With a thickness of 10mm it has a weight without cable of 220 grams.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	helicoidal.png Views:	0 Size:	93.4 KB ID:	432988 Click image for larger version  Name:	coil 12.png Views:	0 Size:	49.0 KB ID:	432989

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  • kt315
    replied
    while you do coil for DP you must think you can use the coil in future, on another type of detectors. with more short MAIN DELAY.
    so you must do right from start FASTEST coil, not trash one for your garbage basket.
    so i NEVER suggest to do coil with foil. i also do not SUGGEST applying epoxy. you have to do fat AIR jacket between the winding and epoxy.
    how? take a rope, wind it around, after wind scotch tape, in two layer, against spilling of epoxy in the rope. you will get air gap in 3-4 mm.
    Click image for larger version

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  • Malospelos
    replied
    Good morning, thank you for your help and your answers.

    In the end, after testing, I built a 12" coil and I'm happy with the result.

    To protect the coil I have seen that aluminum is used, the shielding should not be completely closed if there are no problems, am I right or does it have no influence on a coil of these characteristics?

    Is there anything to keep in mind before closing the coil and applying epoxy?

    Thanks again, I'll upload photos of the coil.​

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  • kt315
    replied
    I've been testing the 18" concentric GPx coil using just the external one (mono mode). It works but the depth is low for that coil.

    seems you have to decrease MAIN DELAY from minimal value 40us to 10-12. anyway you must go by standart way of PI detectors for gold nuggets just your coil is small for a deeper
    DP working with coil 1 x 1 meter. and yes, then you have to change damping resistor.
    read the article of Carl Moreland HAMMERHEAD on MAIN DELAY.
    second way to tune SECOND DELAY to maximal possible value (on ground you will hunt), however you have to find stabile point.
    Click image for larger version

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  • Toros
    replied
    Originally posted by Malospelos View Post
    ​Good morning, I have been researching so as not to repeat questions, I have not found it exactly.

    If I'm not mistaken, the DeltaPulse is prepared to use large coils.
    The damping resistor R5 is 680 ohms, what size coil is that resistor for? I guess (1mx1m)?

    I've been testing the 18" concentric GPx coil using just the external one (mono mode). It works but the depth is low for that coil.

    To change the damping resistance it is necessary to vary R5 (680ohm) or I also have to remove R6 (1K). Both act as a damping resistance? or simply R5. And R6 remain in place.

    Or is the PCB configured for a 300mm coil and the damping resistor is R5+R6? = 1.68

    I have seen this, does it work or is it approximate?

    Click image for larger version Name:	table_eng.jpg Views:	0 Size:	46.0 KB ID:	432741
    -- GPX coil has 315mH

    ​Thanks for your help
    For each coil you connect to the device, a separate damping resistor is required. It is selected experimentally to obtain the following effect:​
    Attached Files

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  • Malospelos
    replied
    ​Good morning, I have been researching so as not to repeat questions, I have not found it exactly.

    If I'm not mistaken, the DeltaPulse is prepared to use large coils.
    The damping resistor R5 is 680 ohms, what size coil is that resistor for? I guess (1mx1m)?

    I've been testing the 18" concentric GPx coil using just the external one (mono mode). It works but the depth is low for that coil.

    To change the damping resistance it is necessary to vary R5 (680ohm) or I also have to remove R6 (1K). Both act as a damping resistance? or simply R5. And R6 remain in place.

    Or is the PCB configured for a 300mm coil and the damping resistor is R5+R6? = 1.68

    I have seen this, does it work or is it approximate?

    Click image for larger version  Name:	table_eng.jpg Views:	0 Size:	46.0 KB ID:	432741
    -- GPX coil has 315mH

    ​Thanks for your help

    Leave a comment:


  • Malospelos
    replied
    Good morning, thank you very much, it is difficult for me, I try to read a lot and decipher things, I don't know how permissive this pcb is to be able to play with it, there are components that are difficult to find and I don't want to burn them .

    That's why I ask, with other projects I have been braver and I have tried countless things and I have learned.

    Thanks again​

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  • kt315
    replied
    good news for GEOTECH1 you got the result without my help. nice job.

    R37 560 Ohm is for 100uA indicator, according to schematic. for 50uA one you have to decrease R37.
    set a trimmer 0.5-1kOhm instead the resistor and turn it on getting max deviation on strong sound.

    some variations of DP/SNIFF already has the trim on a board. attached.
    Click image for larger version

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  • Malospelos
    replied
    Good morning, yesterday I made DeltaPulse work successfully, I am testing a commercial 18" Minelab Gpx Concentric coil, in principle it works, then I will do pulse measurements. (It has just been finished).

    What doesn't work for me is the microammeter, I know it is regulated with R37 (560ohm), I bought a 50u Chinese one, and it doesn't seem to work.

    Is 560 ohm for a 50u ammeter? Or is it for a 100u? How could it be regulated or what does it depend on?

    Thanks for your answers.​


    I also want to thank KT for his patience, I guess he is tired of the same questions and the PCB is very good, very happy, worth every dollar you pay.

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  • kt315
    replied
    • Good morning friend, I'm Marcial from Spain, I bought a DeltaPulse pcb from you, I have already finished it, I have had some problems finding components. (All the ones I use are very good quality, 1% resistance, WIMA capacitors, and the best I can get) but there are integrated ones that I have not been able to find in TAYDA or TME, and I don't know if they are good or not. cheap copies.

      When I turn on the detector it makes a constant sound and I can't regulate anything else. Is this due to the integrated 4538?

      I haven't measured pulses or anything because I finished yesterday afternoon. I start the first time and usually check twice before soldering. I think it's because of the integrated one I put in.
      Has this happened? Or do I need to verify something else?


      here you put
      DD1 4538 HEF4538BP, 74HC4538N, MC14538BCP do not use CD4538 (RCA)

      They sent me a CD74hc4538
      Alright? Or is this what the instructions refer to? Not to use.

      I saw in a photo of their PCB that they used MC14538BCP.

      Can you tell me if that chip is okay so I don't spend more money or do I have to check something else?
      Isn't a coil necessary for the detector to work well?​

      ​I really appreciate your help.​
      ​​

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  • kt315
    replied
    Pozdrav gospodine.Ja želim da kupim još jedan PCB.Prvi ja kupio ali neznam koji tantalium da stavim.Dali od 16v,68mf ili 25v ili 35v 68mf.Javite mi.Molim vas.Ja kupim još jednu PCB.Hvala.

    Hello sir. I want to buy another PCB. I bought the first one but I don't know which tantalum to put. Is it 16v,68mf or 25v or 35v 68mf. Let me know. Please. I will buy another PCB. Thank you.


    All tantalums on the board are SMD - SURFACE MOUNTED DEVICES. Or, SMT - SURFACE MOUNTED TECHNOLOGY.
    Not ordinary throw-holes components. They are set just at bottom side of the board.
    Main rule in electronics is to use capacitors with more voltage than you see in a circuit. Is it clear for your understanding?
    If you see 12V in the circuit between some points (power supply lines, for example) you take 12+V cap - ie 16V. That is also meaning you CAN take caps 25V and more.
    If you set 10V cap in circuit 12V you will get a smoke.

    However you sure will see that caps with 25V and more has MORE SIZES itself, while size placement on the board is strictly limited and you CAN NOT solder 68uF x 35V cap in the board.
    You have to take the tantalums sizes' tables from the Internet using GOOGLE and learn them, or to seek especially made topic related the tantalums in forum GEOTECH1, for beginners in the electronics.
    Also, learn PART LIST more attentionally.
    Attached Files

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  • kt315
    replied
    Gospodine.
    Kupio sam jednu PCB i jedan deo mi nije jasan.Šta znače tačke T!, T2, T3 i .... ostale T.....Gde se one vezuju.Dali imate primer kako to izgleda.Ja bi onda poručio još jednu PCB ploču.U koje otvore ulaze pinovi potenciometra.Hvala.

    Izvinite.Dali ima TANTAL kondezatorl



    hello Amigo

    T1, T2 и т.д. это TEST POINTs. то есть точки в которых проверяем сигналы - в том случае когда плата не запустилась сразу. ничего не нужно соединять. в эти отверстия можно впаять штыри, можно ничего не впаивать.эти точки отмечены на схеме и ПОДПИСАНЫ. РАССМОТРИТЕ СХЕМУ ВНИМАТЕЛЬНО.

    примеры уже готовой платы вы найдете в архиве.потенциометры запаиватся либо в плату либо если потенциометры ставятся отдельно то проводами. найдете примеры в архиве.тантал кондесаторы вы можете взять с любых плат, в частности с компьютерных. мы называем это TRASH TECHNOLOGY. использование деталей с убитых выкинутых плат. либо, если у вас трудности найти SMD тантал ТО НЕ СТАВЬТЕ НА ИХ МЕСТО НИЧЕГО. плата будет работать БЕЗ НИХ.

    скачать весь архив по ссылке https://drive.google.com/file/d/1E2g...e_linkpleasure

    Anatloy



    T1, T2, etc. are TEST POINTS. That is, the points at which we check the signals - in the case when the board does not start up immediately. Nothing needs to be connected. You can solder pins into these holes, or you can leave anything unsoldered. These points are marked on the diagram and SIGNED. REVIEW THE DIAGRAM CAREFULLY.

    You will find examples of a finished board in the archive. Potentiometers are soldered either into the board or, if the potentiometers are installed separately, then with wires. You will find examples in the archive. You can take tantalum capacitors from any boards, in particular from computer ones. We call this TRASH TECHNOLOGY. Using parts from dead discarded boards. Or, if you have difficulty finding SMD tantalum, DO NOT PUT ANYTHING IN THEIR PLACE. The board will work WITHOUT THEM.

    Download the entire archive from the link https://drive.google.com/file/d/1E2g...e_linkpleasure

    ​​

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  • kt315
    replied
    transfer
    Originally posted by Jose View Post
    I bought CD4538 ICs for a Delta Pulse I was building, the pulse times were less than 50% of normal values. I think they are fake, or they have different characteristics to the ones I used before, I don't know. Click image for larger version  Name:	CD4538 Falso.gif Views:	105 Size:	550.1 KB ID:	431285
    Emersonpaz​ I had the same problem with this CD4538BE on the Delta Pulse it was showing 22us where it should be 45us according to the original project, I compensated by changing the 1n5 capacitor to 4n7 sampling at 41us, yes the internal calculation differs from the datasheet.

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