Bounty Hunter Red Barren 7 schematic

[conan]

Red Baron is Back part two

I just could not help myself to put one more pic of the other side of my board showing where the one blue 500 ohm trim pot is located in the middle of the two MC1496P I.C'S and there is another one next to the headphone socket.Notice all the I.C's are not there in the pic since I put mounting machine sockets for easy removal and replacement.There are six LM358N omp and three MC1496P Modulators/Demodulator.

[turtlebowl]

Hey Conan. Thanks for the clarification on the picture. Did not know if it was the RB7 or the 840 you were also speak of.
Same question about the schematic. Is the circuit drawing you spoke of in post #29 the schematic shown in this thread or do you have another circuit drawing??
I would love to have a drawing of the Red Baron if you have it. Please let me know orpost it . Phil

[conan]

Red Baron 7

Hello PHILL it's all about the Red Baron VLF/SPD model in this thread and where the power leads connect to.If you had one with out the wires like I had.The supply of the R.B VLF/SPD model has two 12 volt battery packs connected to power A and B in the detector.Because it was not known at the beginning where the connections went to.I research early models that had a two power supply behind them,and the Bounty Hunter 840 was mention and shown the diagram,because it was the closest with two nine volt power supply to the detector,again A and B like the Red Baron VLF/SPD but instead of 12 volts it has 9 volts and is one of the few schematics around like it says on the diagram Bounty Hunter 840.Regarding the schematic or diagram for the Red Baron I only have it on physical paper.But I think Alimo88 has it on email or pic form(post 15 of this thread) Cheers

[MarksSupplies]

More RB5 battery pack wiring problems!

I'm a new member but I've been following the RB5 thread to help fix an old faulty RB5 I picked up recently. The most obvious problem was the missing battery packs & wires. I've read the posts here & seen the pics of the 3 board model but the info that Conan posted on 02-22-2011, 07:04 PM suggested that the pos of one of the batt packs is connected to the board at the same place as the other neg wires. Now this would seem wrong but I tried it anyway & of course the pos of one of the batt packs is now shorted to ground which will not work.
My RB5 is the 3 board model but the main board wiring connections look similar but different to the posted pics (a different model PCB maybe) & it would be great if the only thing wrong with it is the wiring of the 4 batt wires but where do they go.
I have 3 positions that I suspect are correct, these are 2 on the on/off switch (1 associated with the white/red wire & the other associated with the white/Violet wire) & the common neg on the main board, but where does the 4th wire go & which of these should be + or -.
I can't add pics in my first post because I'm a newbie but I will try to add some in the next post.

[MarksSupplies]

I've attached 2 pics that I hope will help my earlier post about the RB5 battery pack connections.
I've circled the 2 on/off switch wires & also circled one of the battery pack wires that goes to the common negative on the main board.
The 4 black wires on the main board are all linked together via the PCB track.

With these 3 points circled & a total of 4 wires coming from 2 12v battery packs where do I connect each of the 4 wires?

Please help, it's my birthday today & I really wanted to play with this.

[MarksSupplies]

It looks like there is a lack of pics for this old Bounty Hunter RB5 Discriminator, so I've added a bunch of pics which may help others. If these are too many then please delete, move or archive them to a more suitable place.
I've added a front & back of each PCB plus one of the inside & one showing the coil connection socket wiring.
I still haven't fixed my battery connection problem yet so any help would be much appreciated.
Have a great 2012.

[Carl-NC]

If I'm not mistaken, the (+) from one battery and the (-) from the other are connected to a common point. Then the other battery leads are connected to the switch.

[MarksSupplies]

Thanks Carl-NC for the quick reply, that seems to be the same as what Conan mentioned in his post but I was sure he must have made a mistake. The common area with all the black wires connected to it is the common ground. When I try wiring it up the way you suggest then it means that one of the battery pack + is connected to ground which of course just heats up the batt pack! But if 2 people tell me the same thing then I suspect you are both correct. But what I am doing wrong, does this mean there is something else wrong, maybe the collection of common black wires on the main board should not go to ground.
Any ideas, I have the feeling I've missed something obvious here.

[homefire]

See if this works!

[MarksSupplies]

Thanks Homefire, I'll give this a go. Not sure if my electronic skills (or lack of them) are enough to get me through this but hopefully some patience & a methodical approach will be enough. It's 6 am here in NZ & I know I have to take the wife shopping later but I can't wait to start tracing this through.

[porkluvr]

... Any ideas, I have the feeling I've missed something obvious here.

Have you studied this part of the diagram on page 1? (I placed colored dots that assume each battery has one red and one black wire although I do know that is probably not the case.)

You can see that connecting the (+) lead from Bat2 to ground would not automatically short the battery.

Besides bad wiring, a shorted 100uF capacitor could also cause battery overheating. Unsolder one lead from each cap and then check with ohmmeter (observe polarity). They should start out reading low ohms and eventually read infinity (after maybe 3~5 seconds).

After checking the capacitors, check across the PCB pads where the capacitors go. A low resistance reading there could indicate that some other component was shorted.

[MarksSupplies]

Thanks Porklvr, I need all the help I can get. I have 3 pages of circuit diagrams from Homefire posted earlier but I do not see anything on them that resembles what you have posted. I have the 3 board model with 2 12v battery packs but I guess the setup is similar.

If I wire the battery packs as suggested the batt2 pack gets very hot, this is the battery pack with the - wired to the on/off switch & the + wired to the common ground on the main board, this would seem wrong to me but you are the 3rd person to tell me this is correct so I suspect it must be my ignorance of the circuit that is wrong. With the meter, both + & - of batt2 go to ground with the on/off switch set to on. Battery pack one seems ok & the batt test switch for that batt shows full on the built in V meter. It shows nothing for batt2.
I checked all the capacitors on the main board & they seem ok.
My electronic skill is not great but I can certainly use a meter & solder & identify most components.

[MarksSupplies]

I should have said that Batt2 - has a capacitance to ground which would seem to be correct, I think.
The Batt2 + is wired directly to ground as per all the posts.

[MarksSupplies]

I've checked loads of stuff now & I have some sort of success, without making any changes I have reconnected both battery packs & turned it on & it seems to be ok.
I have a steady tone, wow, music to my ears. I've since been turning knobs & tweeking stuff but I must read the manual on how to set it up first, never used this or any metal detector before. I still have a few known problems such as the batt2 pack doesn't register on the built in meter but I will put some effort into that before asking for any help. There does seem to be something loose because as I knocked my work table the tone changes so I'll chase this as this is likely to be the source of my initial problem.
I'll get back to you all soon & I will definitely post the exact positions of the battery pack wires to help others but the general idea of what everyone has posted so far was correct.
Fingers crossed.

[porkluvr]

Thanks Porklvr, I need all the help I can get. I have 3 pages of circuit diagrams from Homefire posted earlier but I do not see anything on them that resembles what you have posted. I have the 3 board model with 2 12v battery packs but I guess the setup is similar.

That's probably because what I posted is not what you are working on. Sorry, but I thought you were trying to fix an 840 like on page 1 and I did not really scour this thread to see what was going on. I see now that you have the RB5. My diagram was pretty much irrelevant.