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  • Fisher Pro Arc

    Good evening team, another problem, having dismantled my Fisher Pro Arc in France to bring it back to Algeria, I have a small problem when reassembling it, the detector starts very well, it detects very well but it is impossible for me to navigate in the menus, the left button (setting) puts the detector in discrimination to all metals when I turn it to the right and in discrimination to the left but when I then press the right button (Menu), nothing happens, I tested this push button outside the PCB and it works very well thank you.

  • #2
    https://youtu.be/9Yd_k7c-xqQ?feature=shared

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    • #3
      Originally posted by AK48 View Post
      Good evening team, another problem, having dismantled my Fisher Pro Arc in France to bring it back to Algeria, I have a small problem when reassembling it, the detector starts very well, it detects very well but it is impossible for me to navigate in the menus, the left button (setting) puts the detector in discrimination to all metals when I turn it to the right and in discrimination to the left but when I then press the right button (Menu), nothing happens, I tested this push button outside the PCB and it works very well thank you.
      Why disassemble your metal detectors every time you travel to Algeria? Leave them assembled, then you won't have to reassemble them.

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      • #4
        This is not the answer I was expecting but I will answer you, if I dismantle my detectors, it is because they are prohibited in Algeria, so I am obliged to disassemble them to camouflage them.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by AK48 View Post
          This is not the answer I was expecting but I will answer you, if I dismantle my detectors, it is because they are prohibited in Algeria, so I am obliged to disassemble them to camouflage them.
          Ok, I expected that explanation, unfortunately it is the reality in many countries.
          I communicate with many people all over the world and it is not a rare case that I hear the same stories and the same problems.
          You do what you have to, understandably.
          Fisher Pro Arc?
          Is that a real model name or...?
          As for the problem you describe; it all reminds of flat cable problems.
          ​
          Or, I stand corrected, an encoder failure might be to cause of the problem too.
          I don't see clearly in the video which model it is? F70? F75? T2?

          ​

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          • #6
            https://www.detectorshop.it/en/metal...6L82GOEja9Km4R

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            • #7
              It maybe based on the F75 but improve
              Attached Files

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              • #8
                I think it's identical to the F75. I don't know about the button unless the PCB contacts are poor.

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                • #9
                  Carl , i dont think contact are poor but i'm gonna resold them and see , NB : on the PCB , it's marked : F75 , if it's so , the micro soft is not the same as the F75 , i will post pics of my PCB after .

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                  • #10
                    Ah, man learns while he lives; first time I hear about and see that model!
                    It's hard for me to remember the internal morphology of those detectors, I had a pair of F75s on light service.
                    The only thing I remember clearly is the F70. There was a "cracked" crystal on it!
                    Someone here on the forum gave me some good advice about that.
                    I replaced the crystal and the F70 "shined brightly"!
                    ...

                    ​I can't help you specifically... but here's what I found in my archives: https://drive.google.com/file/d/14Yz...ew?usp=sharing

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                    • #11
                      It is indeed the F75 in a suit.

                      One thing to check: The rotary encoder has a push-button built into it. This is connected - there is a pull-up resistor to the 5V power supply, and it links to a micro pin. The software DOES read it, though it's functions are minimal, "notch cancel" is one I recall, it also 'wakes up' the micro if it has timed-out when no button has been pressed.
                      It maybe this push-switch is faulty, or permanently jammed in. Test to see if it clicks in/out. Check the voltages on it's two pins - one is direct to Ground / 0V, the other will be +5V, and fall to 0V when the switch is pressed [ if I remember correctly ]

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                      • #12
                        Thanks friend, I quickly looked through your file and I think it will seriously help me, I think I made a mistake between the menu button and the LEDs, I will see all that this evening, thanks again.

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                        • #13
                          Good evening, thanks to ivconic for his file and thanks to the whole group, the problem is solved, I had just reversed the wires of the menu button and the two black wires which go to the LCD display, I put them back in place according to the ivconic diagram and my detector works like new. Bravo to all and thank you. Greetings.
                          Attached Files

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                          • #14

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                            • #15

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