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TESORO GOLDEN SABRE

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  • kt315
    replied
    you do the target move UNRIGHT because along the intersection
    while you have to move the target ACROSS -
    do right video with right moving.

    Leave a comment:


  • mostafalesnar91
    replied
    in this video,disc mode does not work and ferrite is not removed!!
    but my TGSL has a good sense!!especially for the silver ring!!https://youtube.com/shorts/4sEdWDF-sg4?feature=share

    Leave a comment:


  • mostafalesnar91
    replied
    What number should I set the rx amplitude to for disc mode to work properly 1.2 or 2.2 or 3.2 or any other number or it's not a fixed value at all and it's different for each loop My scope settings are 20us_5V_100mV .

    Leave a comment:


  • mostafalesnar91
    replied
    Originally posted by waltr View Post
    Commens on the RX coil resonance and phase shift.

    The RX coil along with the Cap, C6, on the RX coil need to resonate at ~16kHz for all the functions, GB & Disc, to work correctly.
    There is NO GOOD way to determine is this is correct.
    If C6 and/or coil inductance is off then the TGSL will not work properly.

    I have added another cap across C6 to increase the capacitance and reduce the resonant frequency to try tuning the RX circuit. I have had luck with this to get it working.
    Simply adding a cap will work if C6's value is too low but not if too high (caps in parallel add).
    If adding say a 1nF cap makes it worse then C6 needs to be replaced with a smaller value. Then add caps to obtain correct phase, nul, GB and Disc.

    The first build of the TGSL and coil took me months to get it to work properly. Once I had the proper values in the TX & RX Circuits the second and third coils (DD & Concentric) builds were not hard and worked well.
    Disk mode doesn't work and I can't remove the ferrite by moving the rx on the tx, I can only remove the ferrite by turning the gb

    Leave a comment:


  • waltr
    replied
    Commens on the RX coil resonance and phase shift.

    The RX coil along with the Cap, C6, on the RX coil need to resonate at ~16kHz for all the functions, GB & Disc, to work correctly.
    There is NO GOOD way to determine is this is correct.
    If C6 and/or coil inductance is off then the TGSL will not work properly.

    I have added another cap across C6 to increase the capacitance and reduce the resonant frequency to try tuning the RX circuit. I have had luck with this to get it working.
    Simply adding a cap will work if C6's value is too low but not if too high (caps in parallel add).
    If adding say a 1nF cap makes it worse then C6 needs to be replaced with a smaller value. Then add caps to obtain correct phase, nul, GB and Disc.

    The first build of the TGSL and coil took me months to get it to work properly. Once I had the proper values in the TX & RX Circuits the second and third coils (DD & Concentric) builds were not hard and worked well.

    Leave a comment:


  • mostafalesnar91
    replied
    Originally posted by Qiaozhi View Post
    You still need the scope to "see" what's going on. Yes, it's possible to build a metal detector without one as long as everything works as expected, you don't make any mistakes, and none of the components are faulty. But Murphy is always present and waiting to screw things up. On the rare occasions, when I decide to build a balanced coil, I always use the scope to initially do the nulling. After that I use a ferrite target to set the GB with the pot in its middle position. This is not rocket science. It just takes a patience and a lot of fiddling around.
    Well, now tell me what is your method for nulling the loop with the scope

    Leave a comment:


  • kt315
    replied
    Originally posted by Qiaozhi View Post
    Output of the preamp. See pages 140 and 141 of ITMD.
    my thread. no offset, nothing of offset. nulling in nule. i write that because there is NO phase shift. not exist.
    just as en example.

    Leave a comment:


  • Qiaozhi
    replied
    Originally posted by mostafalesnar91 View Post
    I will test this method of removing the ferrite today. When I do this, the coin should be sensed above 30 cm. If it doesn't, it means that all this time has been wasted, because on the first day when I joined this site, you said that it should be for The nulling must be scoped so that you can adjust the phase difference, but now I see that all my coils are automatically adjusted to 20 degrees and there was no need for a scope.
    You still need the scope to "see" what's going on. Yes, it's possible to build a metal detector without one as long as everything works as expected, you don't make any mistakes, and none of the components are faulty. But Murphy is always present and waiting to screw things up. On the rare occasions, when I decide to build a balanced coil, I always use the scope to initially do the nulling. After that I use a ferrite target to set the GB with the pot in its middle position. This is not rocket science. It just takes a patience and a lot of fiddling around.

    Leave a comment:


  • dbanner
    replied
    Set the gb trim in mid position.
    Null coil with rx lead tx by 20 degrees.
    Then adjust the gb trim so that ferrite is just barely rejected.

    Without oscilloscope I have observed that using good wideband AC milli voltmeter(or any ac milli voltmeter for that matter regardless of bandwidth limitations, because we are not concerned with absolute values, but with minimum value) null for minimum output of preamp and gb trim adjust to edge of reject ferrite( checking also for good detection range in so doing), everything seems to work and fall into place. A little back and forth is necessary to optimize detection distance.
    If the gb trim cannot reject ferrite within its adjustable range then you will know that your null is far away from the 20 degrees.

    This 20 degrees is measured on oscilloscope from factory tesoro search head connected to original tesoro metal detector.

    Leave a comment:


  • mostafalesnar91
    replied
    Originally posted by mostafalesnar91 View Post
    I completed this project without using oscilloscope!!
    just with a simple multimeter!!
    very very easy!!!!!!!!!!https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=eEQmZNyUJo4
    So I already went the right way with the multimeter

    Leave a comment:


  • mostafalesnar91
    replied
    Originally posted by mostafalesnar91 View Post
    See the photo in the best condition for the coil!!!! This coin your country should sense in a few centimeters????[ATTACH]58119[/ATTACH]
    [ATTACH]58120[/ATTACH]
    this coin

    Leave a comment:


  • mostafalesnar91
    replied
    Originally posted by Qiaozhi View Post
    A scope is useful for many other things. Without one it's like trying to work with one hand tied behind your back.
    I will test this method of removing the ferrite today. When I do this, the coin should be sensed above 30 cm. If it doesn't, it means that all this time has been wasted, because on the first day when I joined this site, you said that it should be for The nulling must be scoped so that you can adjust the phase difference, but now I see that all my coils are automatically adjusted to 20 degrees and there was no need for a scope.

    Leave a comment:


  • Qiaozhi
    replied
    Originally posted by kt315 View Post
    For Tesoro designs the RX signal will be offset by approximately 20 degrees.

    meant 20 degrees measured before op amp or after? preamp gives itself some phase shift?
    Output of the preamp. See pages 140 and 141 of ITMD.

    Leave a comment:


  • kt315
    replied
    For Tesoro designs the RX signal will be offset by approximately 20 degrees.

    meant 20 degrees measured before op amp or after? preamp gives itself some phase shift?

    Leave a comment:


  • Qiaozhi
    replied
    Originally posted by mostafalesnar91 View Post
    If the coil nulling by removing the ferrite, what is the need for a scope? What is the use of a scope?
    A scope is useful for many other things. Without one it's like trying to work with one hand tied behind your back.

    Leave a comment:

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