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  • Lukelearning
    replied
    Thanks for your reply. Yeah it seemed very basic, wouldn't be worth the time to get refunds. First of many painful lessons I think but still looking forward to the build!

    Leave a comment:


  • Nightryder
    replied
    Originally posted by Lukelearning View Post
    Hi

    I've finally got around to starting this project and I've already messed up!

    Starting step 1 all my IC sockets are to small for the PCB. I'm new to electronics and set up my own BOM list but appear to have ordered wrong components e.g the very first one U2 (ICL7660) 8-pin I've ordered https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDeta...JZPJ0POQ%3D%3D and its tiny compared to the PCB. As I say, new to all this but not sure the method of choosing the correct component when there are so many there.

    Is there an "official" BOM list I can use and try and work out which replacement components I need to order?

    Thanks
    Your problem is with ICs packaging. You ordered SOP-8 but what you need is DIP-8 and DIP-14. Not sure about Mouser's return/ replace policy, you can check that on your own. There is another solution, which I do not recommend in most cases due to spacing of the PCB, and that is to buy an SOP to DIP converter.

    This is a basic knowledge, so do not get frustrated if you don't get responses. This is simply because Google can answer that for ya.

    Leave a comment:


  • Lukelearning
    replied
    Hi

    I've finally got around to starting this project and I've already messed up!

    Starting step 1 all my IC sockets are to small for the PCB. I'm new to electronics and set up my own BOM list but appear to have ordered wrong components e.g the very first one U2 (ICL7660) 8-pin I've ordered https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDeta...JZPJ0POQ%3D%3D and its tiny compared to the PCB. As I say, new to all this but not sure the method of choosing the correct component when there are so many there.

    Is there an "official" BOM list I can use and try and work out which replacement components I need to order?

    Thanks

    UPDATE: as the components are so cheap I'll just use the one from here and see how I go https://www.geotech1.com/forums/foru...cussion/page17

    Leave a comment:


  • Nightryder
    replied
    I just did so and it's much better. I remember I tried to attach another (150 ohms) to the soldered one (2 parallel resistors) but I did not notice any change so I figured that was a no go for my issue. But after I followed your trick I knew I should not have given up on R20.

    Thank you Sir!!

    Leave a comment:


  • Nightryder
    replied
    Hello Emersonpaz​ !

    I will definitely give it a try

    thank you so much

    Leave a comment:


  • Emersonpaz
    replied
    replace R20 with 47r and use piezoelectric

    Leave a comment:


  • Nightryder
    replied
    Does anyone have an issue with the audio? it's really low when I connect an 8 ohms speaker. I even connected 4 (8 ohms speakers) in series in order to raise the impedance but it's still very low. I should mention that when I connect headphones, the audio is not very loud but somewhat is acceptable since the headphones have their own volume pot. The components used are high quality and resistors are (1%) type.

    Unfortunately, I can not get a hard copy (paper) of the book , which is the only existing copy, to be delivered to where I live currently due to local laws. So, any help would be much appreciated.

    Leave a comment:


  • Qiaozhi
    replied
    Originally posted by Solheim22 View Post

    Oh my goodness. I can't believe i didn't think about that. I also realise now that I had the boost switch connected giving me either -16V or - 20V on the scope (-160V or -200V actually). Thank you so much!
    No problem.
    Hope the rest of the build goes smoothly.

    Leave a comment:


  • Solheim22
    replied
    Originally posted by Qiaozhi View Post

    As you have the scope probe set to x10, then the -16V shown on the scope is actually -160V.
    Oh my goodness. I can't believe i didn't think about that. I also realise now that I had the boost switch connected giving me either -16V or - 20V on the scope (-160V or -200V actually). Thank you so much!

    Leave a comment:


  • Qiaozhi
    replied
    Originally posted by Solheim22 View Post

    Yes, it does (see picture below)
    I am using the 10x setting on the scope probe. I have done the 8 <-> 10 pin switch mod and have the moded arduino code by SaltyDog. I haven't connected anything up past step 9 yet.
    As you have the scope probe set to x10, then the -16V shown on the scope is actually -160V.

    Leave a comment:


  • Solheim22
    replied
    Originally posted by Qiaozhi View Post

    Does the voltage across the damping resistor look anything like the signal in Fig. 4-9, ignoring the actual voltage?
    Yes, it does (see picture below)
    I am using the 10x setting on the scope probe. I have done the 8 <-> 10 pin switch mod and have the moded arduino code by SaltyDog. I haven't connected anything up past step 9 yet.

    Leave a comment:


  • Qiaozhi
    replied
    Originally posted by ugocapeto View Post

    Thanks for your reply. Btw, I really appreciate the book splitting the whole circuit into sub-circuits with input/output and explaining what they each do. Really simplifies things. Wish more books were like that.

    Assuming the inductance is within the range that you recommend in the book and assuming the MD would be used for the beach, would that coil be good to use?

    Is it safe to assume that the coil (old white's GEB/TR discriminator coil) is not shielded? Or are coils in TR or IB detector usually shielded?
    It's probably unlikely that an old White's coil will have the correct inductance. Have you measured it?
    The easiest way to find out would be to try it. Note that the PCB is not designed for IB connections, so you would have to do some modifications,
    Building your own mono coil would be a lot easier.

    Leave a comment:


  • Qiaozhi
    replied
    Originally posted by Solheim22 View Post
    Hi, I have a random question and hope not to sound too incompetent. I am currently building the circuit and on step 9 measured the coil flyback voltage to only be -16V with a Vpp of around 17.5V. I am not sure what this means and what I have done wrong. I have measured my coil to have an inductance of 300uH using an LCR meter. I have also checked that the oscillator signal is giving the correct signal as described in the book. Any tips?
    Does the voltage across the damping resistor look anything like the signal in Fig. 4-9, ignoring the actual voltage?

    Leave a comment:


  • ugocapeto
    replied
    It depends on the inductance of the coil and what you want to do with the detector.
    It's very easy to make your own mono coil.​
    Thanks for your reply. Btw, I really appreciate the book splitting the whole circuit into sub-circuits with input/output and explaining what they each do. Really simplifies things. Wish more books were like that.

    Assuming the inductance is within the range that you recommend in the book and assuming the MD would be used for the beach, would that coil be good to use?

    Is it safe to assume that the coil (old white's GEB/TR discriminator coil) is not shielded? Or are coils in TR or IB detector usually shielded?

    Leave a comment:


  • Solheim22
    replied
    Hi, I have a random question and hope not to sound too incompetent. I am currently building the circuit and on step 9 measured the coil flyback voltage to only be -16V with a Vpp of around 17.5V. I am not sure what this means and what I have done wrong. I have measured my coil to have an inductance of 300uH using an LCR meter. I have also checked that the oscillator signal is giving the correct signal as described in the book. Any tips?

    Leave a comment:

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