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Barracuda Legend Kit Problems

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  • Impulse
    replied
    Originally posted by Old cart View Post
    mismit polarized (does it have +/-"marks) if so put measure the voltage acros pins 14 and 7. Connect the plus side of cap to the MORE positive voltage . If it is not polarized either way is ok. Either way keep the leads short.
    Old cart it is polerized i will try it and see what happens.

    Leave a comment:


  • Impulse
    replied
    Originally posted by raygdunn View Post
    Hi Impulse,

    Wow that did the trick and now your trace looks like mine. I thought mine was faulty, with those extra glitches, but there they are again.
    [ATTACH]35416[/ATTACH]

    I've tried Old cart's suggestion of a 104 capacitor between the power pins to no avail and then confirmed all power lines looks stable. I've actually ordered more chips on the basis that I've damaged the chip and there is some internal cross feed... Noew I'm not so sure. :-)

    Ray
    I thought i was the only ONE! Do you have the movement issue?

    Leave a comment:


  • Old cart
    replied
    Originally posted by Impulse View Post
    ok i have a 4.7uF 40v cap i can take off an old board i have in front of me will that do?
    mismit polarized (does it have +/-"marks) if so put measure the voltage acros pins 14 and 7. Connect the plus side of cap to the MORE positive voltage . If it is not polarized either way is ok. Either way keep the leads short.

    Leave a comment:


  • raygdunn
    replied
    Baracuda 40106 glitches

    Originally posted by Impulse View Post
    ok i have CUT the link and put the 10k pot in its place

    here [ATTACH]35414[/ATTACH]
    Hi Impulse,

    Wow that did the trick and now your trace looks like mine. I thought mine was faulty, with those extra glitches, but there they are again.
    Click image for larger version

Name:	40106_Pin2_pin4.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	195.3 KB
ID:	345176

    I've tried Old cart's suggestion of a 104 capacitor between the power pins to no avail and then confirmed all power lines looks stable. I've actually ordered more chips on the basis that I've damaged the chip and there is some internal cross feed... Noew I'm not so sure. :-)

    Ray

    Leave a comment:


  • Impulse
    replied
    ok i have a 4.7uF 40v cap i can take off an old board i have in front of me will that do?

    Leave a comment:


  • Old cart
    replied
    Originally posted by Impulse View Post
    can i buy one of yours it works better
    Just what I was going to suggest. It appears KT315 has used some caps to eliminate noise that causes the spurious signals we talked about. Also he may have a better layout. I do not know if he sells kits though.

    Leave a comment:


  • Old cart
    replied
    Originally posted by Impulse View Post
    ok i have just tried an air test with a gold ring and i get a positive 6" BEEP then after that it is faint but i still cannot move it around, i have the delay trim set at 10k ohms and the delay trim pot at full (10k ohm)

    old cart i do not have a 1uf cap that i can solder to pins 7 and 14
    Actually I meant .1 uF. Do you have any caps laying around? .1 -22 uF will do.
    Monitor the same two test points decrease the delay pot ( the one set to full)until the signals ( pulse part not the spurious signal) changes shape or gets smaller, then retest in air.

    Leave a comment:


  • Impulse
    replied
    Originally posted by kt315 View Post
    yup... from my pcb... thank you...
    can i buy one of yours it works better

    Leave a comment:


  • kt315
    replied
    my layout is a copy of original board. i did not learn silverdog pcb, 'papa alex' pics and his photos of the board gave me
    enough info.

    Leave a comment:


  • Impulse
    replied
    ok i have just tried an air test with a gold ring and i get a positive 6" BEEP then after that it is faint but i still cannot move it around, i have the delay trim set at 10k ohms and the delay trim pot at full (10k ohm)

    old cart i do not have a 1uf cap that i can solder to pins 7 and 14

    Leave a comment:


  • Old cart
    replied
    Originally posted by kt315 View Post
    yup... from my pcb... thank you...
    Your schematic is the same as Silverdog??? So you must have better board layout!

    Leave a comment:


  • kt315
    replied
    Originally posted by Old cart View Post
    KT is this from the PCB you designed? If so it looks much better than the Sliverdog board!
    yup... from my pcb... thank you...

    Leave a comment:


  • Old cart
    replied
    Originally posted by kt315 View Post
    http://storage4.static.itmages.ru/i/...19e4cc22d4.jpg

    take attention 'zero/ground/GND' is a top of the signals just cause 40106 supplies from GND and -E (look at my first pic).
    14 pin, plus pin, stay on GND; 7 pin stay on -E.
    KT is this from the PCB you designed? If so it looks much better than the Sliverdog board!

    Leave a comment:


  • Old cart
    replied
    Originally posted by Impulse View Post
    ok i have CUT the link and put the 10k pot in its place

    here [ATTACH]35414[/ATTACH]
    This is progress! Try depth test now. Have you got a .1uf cap? If so please solder it, with the leads cut as short as possible. One the back of the board between pins 7 and 14 on the 40106. Remember the pins are upside down and reversed becuase this is the back of the board so confirm before soldering.

    Leave a comment:


  • kt315
    replied
    Originally posted by Old cart View Post
    KT 315 So there is about a 200 uS delay between the 2 strobes? You did not state the time per div and volt per div.
    Thanks for you help!


    take attention 'zero/ground/GND' is a top of the signals just cause 40106 supplies from GND and -E (look at my first pic).
    14 pin, plus pin, stay on GND; 7 pin stay on -E.

    Leave a comment:

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