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  • BKY1337
    replied
    Do you think one 2200uf 16V cap is enough?
    I have only 11mm height left in my enclosure.

    A 3300uf with 12,5 is too big.

    Or 2 x 2200uF 16V ?

    Leave a comment:


  • BKY1337
    replied
    Thanks , then i can use a smd type capacitor.

    Leave a comment:


  • eclipse
    replied
    You need 16V rated capacitor if your battery is <= 15V (+1V reserve). Otherwise use 25V.
    You can use any capacitor from 2200uF and above. This circuit doesn't use wide TX pulse so you can get away with low capacitor values.
    What's more important is to use low ESR caps. Non-branded caps are not so great and branded caps must be checked for their ESR, ESR <0.1R is good, <0.03R is great.

    Leave a comment:


  • BKY1337
    replied
    I have space problems and i need to replace the 6800uf electrolytic capacitor.

    Any suggestions? Can i use a smaller one? How much voltage is minimum?

    Leave a comment:


  • BKY1337
    replied
    Click image for larger version

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  • kt315
    replied
    i bought the battery for my second camera from this seller https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/253168419220
    its good.

    Leave a comment:


  • BKY1337
    replied
    Sorry , the battery of my camera is empty.
    I have an on/off switch at the "PP" Board connector.

    My upper trimmer is in the other direction than in this video:



    Also my Thresh Pot is in other direction.

    Leave a comment:


  • kt315
    replied
    few pics of your board will make my day.

    Leave a comment:


  • BKY1337
    replied
    My depht changes a lot when i turn it to the right.
    Maybe it is the middle position i dont know.
    I think 25cm is very good with a 15cm diameter coil.
    I will leave it as it is

    Can you tell me why i cant use the PP switch? When i move the switch i have a steady tone and i cant detect anything.

    Leave a comment:


  • kt315
    replied
    R10 is preset for STROBE DELAY. you do not tune it without o-scope. set it in middle position and forget.

    Leave a comment:


  • BKY1337
    replied
    R10 and R39

    R39 -> for the 0V

    R10 -> I dont know -> (PDF said adjust till i get -2.1V at Pin1 U2 DC (Rev-A))

    I have adjusted it now by testing with a gold ring and a euro.
    I got about 20cm for the ring and 25cm with a euro with a testcoil from my Pirat Pi (290uH,15cm dia.)

    Leave a comment:


  • kt315
    replied
    no second trimmer. THRESHOLD is a pot on housing panel.
    bara has two pots outside - thres and delay.

    Leave a comment:


  • BKY1337
    replied
    Because i dont know what i should do with the second Trimmer!

    I wrote you two times that i already have the Zero Nulling.

    The PDF said it is DC Voltage at U2 Pin 1 which changes.

    Edit: Ok, you meant the Zero Nulling at the oscilloscope.
    I meant 0Volts at Pin 6.

    Leave a comment:


  • kt315
    replied
    zero level Click image for larger version

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  • kt315
    replied
    please ask the forum.
    you are overloading my PM box by bare requests,

    Originally posted by BKY1337
    Originally posted by kt315
    you have to get zero voltage (balance) on U1 pin6, output, or Test point 1 by tuning of R39 trim.
    Yes , i already did this without IRF. But i need to know how i tune the other trimmer.

    My Pin 1 (U2) shows me about 600mV and i can turn the lower trimmer until i get 250mV or something like that.
    But not the wanted -2.1V.

    Do i need to get -2.1V?
    i say you again - you need o-scope in your kitchen room. you operate by categories that i do not use and
    ask me HOW to measure AC signal with EMI noise in your home by chinese multitester.

    YOU HAVE TO GET THE ZERO NULLING IN POINT T1. why you ask me about DC voltage on U2
    if you have to get ALL AUTOMATICALLY. no more adjust in this primitive schematic.

    Leave a comment:

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