PI CHIP

[Pete the Builder]

FWIW, I've bought quite a lot of stuff from this manufacturer (ETT, in Thailand, I think), and they are really reasonable quality boards. Heavy copper, good through-plating, and pretty solid.

The only glitch I can see is that all their non-English gear comes only with Thai instructions and code examples. But if you're modifying an existing codebase, that won't be an issue. Just clear out the downloader in the supplied chip and flash the V300 modified code.

Good sized board, too. That's about the format I usually make, but I use linear regs and so on, so it's not as efficient.

[EDIT] The first thing I'd do is get rid of the bridge rectifier, and just connect up to the battery. They're just wasting power and dropping your working battery voltage. Just a thought!

-PtB

[moodz]

Guys I had a look at this board and they have mapped the quadrature enoder ports across the LCD control ...... wouldn't you rather have the PIC32 chip on the UNO32 board ???? It runs nearly 8 times faster, serial through the USB and brick wall target filter ... I posted the hex code a few posts ago.... here is the basic schematic ( only the UNO32 ports shown ) ... the band pass filter is shown for the input to the ADC .... its verrrrrry niiiiiiiice.

[sido]

FWIW, I've bought quite a lot of stuff from this manufacturer (ETT, in Thailand, I think), and they are really reasonable quality boards. Heavy copper, good through-plating, and pretty solid.

The only glitch I can see is that all their non-English gear comes only with Thai instructions and code examples. But if you're modifying an existing codebase, that won't be an issue. Just clear out the downloader in the supplied chip and flash the V300 modified code.

Good sized board, too. That's about the format I usually make, but I use linear regs and so on, so it's not as efficient.

[EDIT] The first thing I'd do is get rid of the bridge rectifier, and just connect up to the battery. They're just wasting power and dropping your working battery voltage. Just a thought!

-PtB

Hi Pete, I actually searched ETT from one of your earlier posts (naughty me) and came across this board from Thailand.
You could bypass some parts.

Anyway, they do look good quality boards they produce.

Sid

[sido]

Guys I had a look at this board and they have mapped the quadrature enoder ports across the LCD control ...... wouldn't you rather have the PIC32 chip on the UNO32 board ???? It runs nearly 8 times faster, serial through the USB and brick wall target filter ... I posted the hex code a few posts ago.... here is the basic schematic ( only the UNO32 ports shown ) ... the band pass filter is shown for the input to the ADC .... its verrrrrry niiiiiiiice.

[ATTACH]23220[/ATTACH]

Thanks Moodz. I thought there would be other pins not mapped out they way you have programmed the 4011 I/O.

I will have a look at the UNO32 board. So programming is done via USB? and what programming software do we use?

Just noticed that every parameters that may need changing, have to be done via PC. No external LCD Module, no toggles like UNIPI 4011. So for field use, where for instance TX parameters may need to be changed, it would have to done only via a Laptop

This is where i see the versatility of the 4011 UNIPI. Does not matter for experimental use if processing speed is not as fast as the UNO32 for now, I say the ease of altering parameters in field use is the way to go.

Unless i can convince Pete PtB to produce the board layout for V300 UNIPI.
BTW Pete, does ETT produce PCB's of 400mm x 400mm in size?


Cheers Sid

[Pete the Builder]

Thanks Moodz. I thought there would be other pins not mapped out they way you have programmed the 4011 I/O.

I will have a look at the UNO32 board. So programming is done via USB? and what programming software do we use?

Just noticed that every parameters that may need changing, have to be done via PC. No external LCD Module, no toggles like UNIPI 4011. So for field use, where for instance TX parameters may need to be changed, it would have to done only via a Laptop

This is where i see the versatility of the 4011 UNIPI. Does not matter for experimental use if processing speed is not as fast as the UNO32 for now, I say the ease of altering parameters in field use is the way to go.

Unless i can convince Pete PtB to produce the board layout for V300 UNIPI.
BTW Pete, does ETT produce PCB's of 400mm x 400mm in size?


Cheers Sid

I'd be more than happy to do a board for the V300 UNIPI, no convincing needed! I'm assuming that's the schematic dated 28/08/2011 by moodz? It'll take me a couple of days, I have to get on my main system to do that, but I was planning to do that on Sunday anyway.

Erm, sorry for butting in like this, but I was interested in your comment about changing the TX parameters. Wouldn't it be easier to just use a pot on an ADC channel and use that to change the parameter (assuming you're changing just the pulse width; otherwise you'd need 2 pots, or 1 pot and 2 menu items, etc)? Please note, I'm looking at this from the point of view of some sort of user interface, which may not be appropriate... Speaking of which, I'd also think that you should be able to add the LCD to any spare pins, unless there aren't any?

Again, that's coming from someone who designs UIs of some kind into just about everything I can (and some things that I shouldn't )... The frankenproject uses a graphic LCD with a single pot and bargraphs representing all the various parameters - a bit like the Deus. That way, I can design all (or most) of the parameters I need to be able to change into the firmware at the start of things, and if I need to change them on the fly, I can, with no extra effort... at least, that's the theory...

What d'you need for the UNIPI? Full board, just the gerbers, just a simple track layout?

[EDIT] According to the futurlec PCB ordering site (http://www.futurlec.com.au/PCBService.jsp), they seem to be able to do at least 400x400mm, I didn't try putting in extra sizes. You can contact them directly if you like. I've seen one of their photos with a PCB blank that looks like about 1500mm wide!

Thanks for mentioning me.
-PtB

[sido]

Hi Pete, that will be awesome, thanks. I think we should wait for Moodz approval as to okay it. I hope he dont mind?

I'd be more than happy to do a board for the V300 UNIPI, no convincing needed! I'm assuming that's the schematic dated 28/08/2011 by moodz? It'll take me a couple of days, I have to get on my main system to do that, but I was planning to do that on Sunday anyway.

The last documented V300 by Moodz is post #144 dated 02-03-2012.
http://www.geotech1.com/forums/showt...824#post143824

Erm, sorry for butting in like this, but I was interested in your comment about changing the TX parameters. Wouldn't it be easier to just use a pot on an ADC channel and use that to change the parameter (assuming you're changing just the pulse width; otherwise you'd need 2 pots, or 1 pot and 2 menu items, etc)? Please note, I'm looking at this from the point of view of some sort of user interface, which may not be appropriate... Speaking of which, I'd also think that you should be able to add the LCD to any spare pins, unless there aren't any?

No worries there. Ment to say sample parameters can be altered via toggle switch viewed via the external LCD Module. Actually TX parameters can be altered also, Like Tx pulse width.

Again, that's coming from someone who designs UIs of some kind into just about everything I can (and some things that I shouldn't )... The frankenproject uses a graphic LCD with a single pot and bargraphs representing all the various parameters - a bit like the Deus. That way, I can design all (or most) of the parameters I need to be able to change into the firmware at the start of things, and if I need to change them on the fly, I can, with no extra effort... at least, that's the theory...

That user interface sounds interesting. Maybe turn it into touch screen just to complicate things.

What d'you need for the UNIPI? Full board, just the gerbers, just a simple track layout?

I would say for now just a simple negative track layout that can be printed to scale and some guide to component placement.
Nothing to fancy, just a neat versatile PI controller.

[EDIT] According to the futurlec PCB ordering site (http://www.futurlec.com.au/PCBService.jsp), they seem to be able to do at least 400x400mm, I didn't try putting in extra sizes. You can contact them directly if you like. I've seen one of their photos with a PCB blank that looks like about 1500mm wide!

Thanks for mentioning me.
-PtB

Good to know they do larger boards of that size. In the future, i may need you with compensation of course for a Matrix LED display board designed for that size. Will discuss that in due course via PM if your interested.

Okay see what you think of the UNIPI V300

Cheers and thanks..
Sid

[Pete the Builder]

Hi Pete, that will be awesome, thanks. I think we should wait for Moodz approval as to okay it. I hope he dont mind?

The last documented V300 by Moodz is post #144 dated 02-03-2012.
http://www.geotech1.com/forums/showt...824#post143824

No wuckers. You want the pulse driver revision. Cool.

That user interface sounds interesting. Maybe turn it into touch screen just to complicate things.

My 400x240 LCD colour touch screen should be arriving Monday or Tuesday (along with my "TaiJuino" Due replacement)... I haven't tried dealing with a touch interface before. (I was trained in simple graphic layouts and, er, well, "knob-y"-type inputs...) I've also been badly spoiled by the iPad. I suspect multi-touch is going to be a PITA to implement on cheap Chinese resistive film, but then I'll never improve if something's not within my easy reach! (I do so love pain of that kind! ).

Still, a touch menu and a finger slider shouldn't be too difficult to implement (Ha! "Shouldn't"!!)

The only catch with touch interfaces are the wear and tear, especially out in the field with detectorists' grubby paws scratching the nice screen... That's why I start off with an IP67 knob and a bargraph, it suits my Neanderthal design skills, and tends to last much longer to boot. (Can you hear my knuckles dragging?). No offense to grubby-pawed detectorists, BTW. I are one myself.

I would say for now just a simple negative track layout that can be printed to scale and some guide to component placement.
Nothing to fancy, just a neat versatile PI controller.

Me? Fancy? Ha!. No problem, I'll do a scaled 1:1 neg for you. Do you have a size requirement? I'd rather you specify an approximate size (include the number and size of mounting holes you need too),

Good to know they do larger boards of that size. In the future, i may need you with compensation of course for a Matrix LED display board designed for that size. Will discuss that in due course if your interested.

Mmmm...matrix LEDs...Mmmm... Actually, a chap on the Raspberry Pi forum asked me about the exact same sort of thing just the other day. He's after an I2C board with Maxim LED driver chips and so on. So yeah, when you're sorted out at your end, fire away. I'm really cheap.
-PtB

[sido]

Something similar to this where the LCD module sits on top of Microcontroller PCB and just below LCD on standoffs is the switch mounted pcb. All raised with standoffs.

In this crappy drawing of mine the lcd should meet closer to the switch board as shown.
I will post later tonight something in reality similar to get an idea what to look like.

Rough dimension of the main PCB below is the length of the LCD Module x the width of LCD Module and switch PCB combined.

Talking about the Maxim LED drivers...How many can be interfaced to the Raspberry in any given time??


I got to step out now till later this evening and get back to you.
Have a nice day till then.
Cheers Sid

[Pete the Builder]

OK, I think I get the picture (heh heh heh). Actually, a "sandwich" type of layout would work well. Do you need the switches on a separate board, or would having them on the same plane as the LCD be OK? Either is fine, although a separate board would be cheaper to get made. But if you're doing it yourself, I'd recommend a simpler, two-board layout.

So the whole thing has to fit within 70mm x 80mm, right? Are the standoff locations important, or just for illustration? And (almost) finally, do you want an ICSP function, or are you happy levering the chip out to reprogram it?

Assuming moodz gives us his blessing, the only thing I'll need from you is your preferences for any unique components like headers and switches. I use some pretty standard switch footprints - those little coloured round-topped el cheapo wibbly-wobbly switches (http://jaycar.com.au/productView.asp...SUBCATID=978#1), or some really fine C&K square jobs (blue bodies, white dimpled square keytops, sorry, I don't have the part number at my fingertips right now...). I have a bag of them I bought years ago, I can shoot you a handful if that'd help. Or I can design a new footprint, and I sure don't mind doing that!

If you're happy with 200mil screw-in battery connectors (green, orange, or blue connectors like they use in burglar alarms and so on), that kind of more-or-less standard stuff, then that'll be quicker, but again, if you have a particular preference and can point me to a footprint, I'm always happy to improve my library!

Sorry if this is complicating things. I don't want an unhappy client!
-PtB

[sido]

Hi Pete, someone on this forum had the same idea for another project, but doing me head in trying to locate the picture.

"If you're happy with 200mil screw-in battery connectors (green, orange, or blue connectors like they use in burglar alarms and so on), that kind of more-or-less standard stuff, then that'll be quicker, but again, if you have a particular preference and can point me to a footprint, I'm always happy to improve my library!"

I think i know which ones you mean. will post a pic also soon.

I am gathering now some parts at my disposal and knock up the idea of layout. Similar to my famous drawing.
Those switches from Jaycar are ok. I have some around here.

The Toggle switch link posted by Moodz to you is the one i would be using also. Datasheet is supplied with mounting footprints. Can be bought from Element14 at $1.40 each. I have similar toggle switches here removed from a Clarion Head unit. Love recycling parts.

Give me couple of hours and will post the picture with parts i have at hand which are univerally used and easy to obatin.

Oh and Moodz, if your reading this, please let us know if we can proceed with your approval or not???

Cheers Sid

[sido]

Hi Pete, i made up this basic board layout.

The toggle switch and press switches is from a disected Clarion for illistration purposes. Seperate board on its own.
LCD Module can easily be removed and the switch PCB to reveal beneath on the main PCB the Microcontroller and Mosfet switching.

Just got to work out what connectors to use for Plug in LCD Module and Switch PCB interface connector to main PCB and where to place I/O pins for convenience to be able to connect to sub Modules off this design.

I will keep brainstorming and add more info with everyday actual parts.

Cheers Sid

[moodz]

Hi Pete, someone on this forum had the same idea for another project, but doing me head in trying to locate the picture.

"If you're happy with 200mil screw-in battery connectors (green, orange, or blue connectors like they use in burglar alarms and so on), that kind of more-or-less standard stuff, then that'll be quicker, but again, if you have a particular preference and can point me to a footprint, I'm always happy to improve my library!"

I think i know which ones you mean. will post a pic also soon.

I am gathering now some parts at my disposal and knock up the idea of layout. Similar to my famous drawing.
Those switches from Jaycar are ok. I have some around here.

The Toggle switch link posted by Moodz to you is the one i would be using also. Datasheet is supplied with mounting footprints. Can be bought from Element14 at $1.40 each. I have similar toggle switches here removed from a Clarion Head unit. Love recycling parts.

Give me couple of hours and will post the picture with parts i have at hand which are univerally used and easy to obatin.

Oh and Moodz, if your reading this, please let us know if we can proceed with your approval or not???

Cheers Sid

good job ... Keep going .... One of my posts seems to have disappeared??

[sido]

Hi Moodz, thanks. Is that a YESto pursue the design of your MCU Controller on a generic PCB layout on open Forum??

Well, a little bit more information added below.
The reason why we should follow this path is shown below in Pictures.

What do you all think?? Any suggestions?? At this stage its only MCU PCB, Switch PCB and LCD Module.

Cheers Sid

[moodz]

Hi Moodz, thanks. Is that a YESto pursue the design of your MCU Controller on a generic PCB layout on open Forum??

Well, a little bit more information added below.
The reason why we should follow this path is shown below in Pictures.

What do you all think?? Any suggestions?? At this stage its only MCU PCB, Switch PCB and LCD Module.

Cheers Sid

[ATTACH]23278[/ATTACH][ATTACH]23279[/ATTACH][ATTACH]23280[/ATTACH]

YES

[sido]

Hi Moodz, thanks for the thumbs up

Cheers Sid