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Pinpointer - Minimax-PP II
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i find.. its general purpose transistor . in this case can use BC 327 ,BC 328 or smt variant. thx anyway. regards.
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very nice job! what the type tranistor are you use in oscilator? BC? thx in advance, regards Cristi
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apologies for the awful video, I had to use my phone
I hope you get the idea though
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Huh. My girlfriend just handed me one that she saw and saved.
Looks like a circus token or something.
Ok, back to the thread.
(I'm going to make this coil plus the one I wrote about...)
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pcb
This is my PCB for minimax pinpointer.
I'm missing some components to build it.
Will try again!!Attached Files
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No, just remember that SMDs are not new and not special at all, and despite all through hole are still here and very much in use. And much more flexible for prototypes.Originally posted by UFO View PostI guess I'm supposed be impressed because you were certified as a radio technician in the 1990s?
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And you can make high-quality printed circuit board under the DIP items? And select all change (under the more extended ones details.) Thank you in advance.
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MINIMAX-PP_ II sprint layot unchecked
unchecked!
Regards detectoAttached Files
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I guess I'm supposed be impressed because you were certified as a radio technician in the 1990s?
Since we are browbeating, I design and build my own amplifiers with technology from the 1930s.
Attached Files
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No, I think you missed my point. There are but few components here and it would not get too big -SMD or not.
I am OK with SMDs as I was OK back in '93 when I earned my NABER certificate. Their footprints didn't change at all. However, I am not happy with SMDs in my hobby projects. I often replace things, and SMDs are generally not happy with that.
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I say make the kit. The appeal is the small size.
A through hole version would be huge, almost the size of a regular detector PCB.
We are all going to have to learn SMD one day if we want to continue on in these electronic hobbies. This is a perfect project to learn.
Put the parts in separate little bags with the value written on it,(or not) the user can verify the parts with an ohm meter.
I check all my regular sized parts for tolerance / accuracy anyways, so it's really not a big deal from that point of view.
How would you ever know if you get a mislabeled or out of tolerance part if you dont check?
Tin one pad with solder, put the part on and heat, then solder the other side, done.
You don't even have to trim the leads.
Just don't drop them lol.
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