Don,,, is this somehow different than those ferrite slugs sold on ebay for MD's or the same??
Ebay item #160686129804 and several more? This particular item number search
on ebay will explain what this supposedly does for detecting sensitivity etc.
I wasn't able to follow the link you provided so cannot read what it said.
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I will try that -- will look for that "choke"... got one somewhere I think...Originally posted by dfbowers View PostIn one of the other posts entitled "Metal Detector -Upgrade for Greater Depth- 25% to 30% " I decided to dig a little deeper on what this guy was selling, and here is the only thing I could figure:http://metaldetectorsnow.co.uk/4-99-...garrett-etc-2/
Certainly not my idea .. but with the way that the TGSL reacts to EMI - robbing detection range, why not try a quick and dirty experiiment.
I clipped this off of an old PC power brick and Voila! Pretty early to tell, but it believe it DOES tend to improve detection range. I have to get out of subjective mode now and take some hard measurements. Noise measurements to follow.. Simon, you HAVE to try this..
Don
-SB
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TGSL - promising improvement
In one of the other posts entitled "Metal Detector -Upgrade for Greater Depth- 25% to 30% " I decided to dig a little deeper on what this guy was selling, and here is the only thing I could figure:http://metaldetectorsnow.co.uk/4-99-...garrett-etc-2/
Certainly not my idea .. but with the way that the TGSL reacts to EMI - robbing detection range, why not try a quick and dirty experiiment.
I clipped this off of an old PC power brick and Voila! Pretty early to tell, but it believe it DOES tend to improve detection range. I have to get out of subjective mode now and take some hard measurements. Noise measurements to follow.. Simon, you HAVE to try this..
DonAttached Files
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Copper tape works well so not really a "problem" so to speak. It's easy to apply and you can solder to it. It is very expen$ive though. I will only use Mylar anymore. Just one continuous 1/2 inch wide strip wound in a spiral around the coil with a small gap works better.Originally posted by Gwil View PostHi Don
Could you explain what the problem is with copper tape as shielding material? Reduced sensitivity? Instability? I haven't used it but I would have expected it to be similar to aluminium foil (except that you can solder to it) which seems to be widely used.
Gwil
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Its a good insulator, but not strong and you cannot rely on it potting as it does not stick to most glues and fillers...Non-Stick?Originally posted by Lefizz View PostI have no experience in coil building but has anyone tried using Teflon pressure tape between the coil and the shielding. Its very thin, strong and an almost perfect insulator. I would have though i would have worked better than insulating tape.
I may of course be completely wrong
Regards
Andy
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Originally posted by Lefizz View PostI have no experience in coil building but has anyone tried using Teflon pressure tape between the coil and the shielding. Its very thin, strong and an almost perfect insulator. I would have though i would have worked better than insulating tape.
I may of course be completely wrong
Hi!
you're right!
I wound my SURF'S COILS with a cotton layer and after several layers with Teflon tape and works great.
Now I can detect bricks, bottles, ceramic etc...He! He!
Best Regards
DIRCEU
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I have no experience in coil building but has anyone tried using Teflon pressure tape between the coil and the shielding. Its very thin, strong and an almost perfect insulator. I would have though i would have worked better than insulating tape.
I may of course be completely wrong
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I only use strips of cooking foil (next time a blanket!!), but what I do first is to first wrap the coil in very thin insulating tape, then I bind a stripped back piece of low voltage flex wiring, but leave a gap, then the short strips of foil, "just" overlapping so it is not too thick, same gap, then a thin insulating tape again (to stop shorts across the gaps of the F.Shield) as tight as possible. In fact all layers are as tight as possible with the coils super glued to make them stiff....Originally posted by satdaveuk View PostNow thats interesting because ive done the strip as you do in the past but not all the way around and ive done the twist but continued all the way around , so there is a difference.
Now the last question which is important when your wrapping the mylar sheild are you doing it in one continuious peace of mylar or a number of strips.
The mylar im using is very thin and easly snaps normaly happens when im near to the end.
Regards
I then check continuity of the foil/Faraday shield carefully with a needle....
The next coil I make will have Mylar instead of foil........I am sure it will be much better.
I often wonder if the Faraday shield "gap" width makes a difference, perhaps Don B. could tell us what he uses?
regards
Andy
PS. I do not connect the dhield to either of the coil connections at the head, I feed a single ground wire from both shields to the electronics. I may run two grounds next time to see if it improves things, one per coil!!
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Now thats interesting because ive done the strip as you do in the past but not all the way around and ive done the twist but continued all the way around , so there is a difference.Originally posted by dfbowers View PostI have been running a thing stip of copper foil around the coil and then a layer of mylar conductive side inward. That way, I have something to solder to.
Sensitivity is noticably reduced using copper or aluminum foil tape. I first noticed this when I made a couple of HH coils. One with Mylar was more sensitive.
Now the last question which is important when your wrapping the mylar sheild are you doing it in one continuious peace of mylar or a number of strips.
The mylar im using is very thin and easly snaps normaly happens when im near to the end.
Regards
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I have been running a thing stip of copper foil around the coil and then a layer of mylar conductive side inward. That way, I have something to solder to.Originally posted by satdaveuk View PostNice job Don
Are you putting the mylar shield directly onto the windings conductive side upwards then connection wraped on as I do, or the origonal way of insulation tape then shield connection wire then mylar wrap conductive side down.
Sensitivity is noticably reduced using copper or aluminum foil tape. I first noticed this when I made a couple of HH coils. One with Mylar was more sensitive.Attached Files
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Nice job DonOriginally posted by dfbowers View PostI don't have a picture of that "exact" coil but the one pictured below was made the same way. I quit using this coil because it's noisy in wet grass (grounded per TGSL coil making). I was using copper tape for my first few coils (like this one) but subsequent tests showed that copper tape was not the best choice. I since settled on the mylar survival blanket idea.
I will have to scope it out to see what the null looks like but pretty sure it's not right.
Are you putting the mylar shield directly onto the windings conductive side upwards then connection wraped on as I do, or the origonal way of insulation tape then shield connection wire then mylar wrap conductive side down.
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Hi Don
Could you explain what the problem is with copper tape as shielding material? Reduced sensitivity? Instability? I haven't used it but I would have expected it to be similar to aluminium foil (except that you can solder to it) which seems to be widely used.
Gwil
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I don't have a picture of that "exact" coil but the one pictured below was made the same way. I quit using this coil because it's noisy in wet grass (grounded per TGSL coil making). I was using copper tape for my first few coils (like this one) but subsequent tests showed that copper tape was not the best choice. I since settled on the mylar survival blanket idea.Originally posted by satdaveuk View PostWell impressed Don, as said considering your next to a steel garage door as well its remarkable, and gives us a good insight to how are machines should perform.
With my latest coils ive been using mylar cut from camping covers conductive side up so i can wrap directly onto the well varnished windings then a thin single copper core wire wraped widely around the top of the mylar all the way around for the earth connection, then insulated.
Don, what are you using for shielding and how are you connecting to it, by any chance do you have a pick of that last coil before you pot it?
Regards
I will have to scope it out to see what the null looks like but pretty sure it's not right.Attached Files
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...not 25" but 25cm of courseOriginally posted by dfbowers View PostI made a coil for Stefano and he was getting about 25" on his TGSL.
I recall having tested once the mylar foil from a big poliester capacitor for a Hammerhead test coil and it worked. I haven't tried it with the TGSL coil though but might be a suitable replacement for Don's survival blankets mylar? I used the aluminium duct tape bought in US as per ivconic instructions but had no succes with it.
back in QRX
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Well impressed Don, as said considering your next to a steel garage door as well its remarkable, and gives us a good insight to how are machines should perform.
With my latest coils ive been using mylar cut from camping covers conductive side up so i can wrap directly onto the well varnished windings then a thin single copper core wire wraped widely around the top of the mylar all the way around for the earth connection, then insulated.
Don, what are you using for shielding and how are you connecting to it, by any chance do you have a pick of that last coil before you pot it?
Regards
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