TESORO GOLDEN SABRE

[metaldetector107]

mayday mayday

Dear Max Ivco Qiaozhe and all

please a bit help, my TGSL doent reject knives and ointment tube!!??

kind regrads

[simonbaker]

Version 2.0 posted here -> http://www.geotech1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15710

Damn, I'm sorry, I was not neat enough... made mistake labeling R13 in schematic.

Here is fixed version; I don't know how to make PDF (excellent image compression!!! What program???).

Since purpose is exactness, I guess we should update with this...

Regards,

-SB

[simonbaker]

Just 15cm !?

Have you considered surgery ?

BTW... just 15cm really ??? On a single coin ??? So bad ??? I don't understand...

Kind regards,
Max

I have two circuits; one soldered, one breadboard. Several coils -- some shielded, some not, none cemented permanently. I think I had one configuration around 20 cm, but at moment not so good. I'm not sure why so bad, but I'm trying like hell to figure it out....

I still have "sloppy" setup with loose wires, open cases, so can't be sure, but I think you and Ivconic would get better depth if you opened your cases and used temporary coils similarly. My cables are simple RCA stereo audio cables, maybe not so good?... I have so many things to check. One day I hope to build "exact" copy of TGSLFinal to see if perfect neatness is the answer.

Some people got it, some don't... but I'm having fun (I think...)

Cheers,

-SB

[Max]

Exact opposite in daily life sad to say . All thumbs when building devices, everything ugly... how you make so pretty???

Ivconic exactly right, I should have made more clear -- schematic would work fine as is, just not same as TGSFinal PCB.... but good as general guide.

Only reason for matching schematic is this: poor beginner (me) builds MD, needs to troubleshoot, looks at schematic to put oscilloscope probe, where is 5.1 resistor??? Have to follow traces, but brain is weak, is it right spot???? Too much confusion, put MD in trash, spend money on Tequila instead.... hey, on second thought, keep the original schematic!!!

Now I keep trying to get more than 15 cm... maybe viagra helps...

Salud!

-SB

Just 15cm !?

Have you considered surgery ?

BTW... just 15cm really ??? On a single coin ??? So bad ??? I don't understand...

Kind regards,
Max

[metaldetector107]

TGSL GEB

Dear qiaozhe
thanksi got it ((TGSL - complete details)) its really very helpful but can ask ivconic to make another detail but this time about TGSL troublshoots and maintenance.
Dear Ivconic
i can not reject a 8cm long ferreit from Raddio antenna tottaly up to 4-5cm it rejects totally but say about 1-2-3cm it detects

is it ok????

another thing this time i made wirement as you described what the hell!!!
its really satible but during detecting the sound is not single sound especially when the signal is strong?

kind rgrads

[ivconic]

Hi, sorry for my English, I'm Spanish.
R52 and R55 are 330k or 330 Ohm

330 Ohm

[geminis74]

Hi, sorry for my English, I'm Spanish.
R52 and R55 are 330k or 330 Ohm

[simonbaker]

Ehhh! You are one pretty neat man, i must admit.

1. BD140 is BD140, despite my mistake when drawing schematic. I seriously doubt that anybody will pay such attention and mix BD140(PNP) with some other NPN. However you are right and it is good to fix that.
2. 5K1 and 4K7 will do the very same job. Doesn't really matter which one you put there. At most of local shops is impossiblle to find 5K1, so as i heared from other people in surrounding countries. Yet there are some shops where those can be obtained. So...5K1 or 4K7 ...trust me, no differences in this particular design. I tried both at many handmades. Not important at all.
3. Same thing as with 5K1. 24K is sometimes pretty hard to obtain. 22K tested many times and working same as 24K...Not important at all.
4. two back to back polarized 10uF elcos have exactly the same effect as one not polarized 5uF. Not important at all.
5. Diode in schematic and not on pcb. Never mind at all. I put that diode in process of experimenting. With or without it - the same thing. Your choice.
With diode included i noticed some minor improvements. Bairly noticeable, only with scope. Not important at all.
6. LM358 is going to +12, BUT it does make sence only if you include battery test components. Otherwise it is not important at all if it is gonna go to +12V or to +8V. Not important at all. No differences at all.

So...helpful to beginners is just to obey pcb and components placements i posted there. Schematic is just for illustration there.
Yet i agree Qiaozhi to change files there with your corrections. Suits me.
It is better to have all the details corrected 100%.
In both cases i agree.
Regards!

Ehhh! You are one pretty neat man, i must admit

Exact opposite in daily life sad to say . All thumbs when building devices, everything ugly... how you make so pretty???

Ivconic exactly right, I should have made more clear -- schematic would work fine as is, just not same as TGSFinal PCB.... but good as general guide.

Only reason for matching schematic is this: poor beginner (me) builds MD, needs to troubleshoot, looks at schematic to put oscilloscope probe, where is 5.1 resistor??? Have to follow traces, but brain is weak, is it right spot???? Too much confusion, put MD in trash, spend money on Tequila instead.... hey, on second thought, keep the original schematic!!!

Now I keep trying to get more than 15 cm... maybe viagra helps...

Salud!

-SB

[Qiaozhi]

Sure thing!

Version 2.0 posted here -> http://www.geotech1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15710

[ivconic]

Sure thing!

[Qiaozhi]

Thanks Qiaozhi for pointing to it -- I had missed that somehow -- I especially like Ivconic's coil-making pdf, much work to do that, thanks again Ivconic.

Qiaozhi: for the record, note that the schematic in that zip file has some mistakes (e.g. BD140 should be PNP) and does not always match TGSLFinal pcb, although the PCB is good.

To best of my ability, attached is schematic to match TGSLFinal for anyone who likes exact schematics -- still no guarantees!

Changes:

1. Changed BD140 to PNP type.
2. Changed 5k1 on schematic to 4.7k like PCB.
3. Changed 22k on schematic to 24k like PCB
4. Two back-to-back 10u capacitors on PCB instead of 4.7u non-polar.
5. Removed diode D5 from CD4024 diodes to gnd since not on PCB.
6. LM358 V+ changed to +12v like PCB from +8v.

Maybe helpful to beginners (like me).

-SB

Yet i agree Qiaozhi to change files there with your corrections. Suits me.
It is better to have all the details corrected 100%.
In both cases i agree.
Regards!

OK - it's no problem for me to update the details, but can you send me the schematic in PDF format?

[ivconic]

Thanks Qiaozhi for pointing to it -- I had missed that somehow -- I especially like Ivconic's coil-making pdf, much work to do that, thanks again Ivconic.

Qiaozhi: for the record, note that the schematic in that zip file has some mistakes (e.g. BD140 should be PNP) and does not always match TGSLFinal pcb, although the PCB is good.

To best of my ability, attached is schematic to match TGSLFinal for anyone who likes exact schematics -- still no guarantees!

Changes:

1. Changed BD140 to PNP type.
2. Changed 5k1 on schematic to 4.7k like PCB.
3. Changed 22k on schematic to 24k like PCB
4. Two back-to-back 10u capacitors on PCB instead of 4.7u non-polar.
5. Removed diode D5 from CD4024 diodes to gnd since not on PCB.
6. LM358 V+ changed to +12v like PCB from +8v.

Maybe helpful to beginners (like me).

-SB

Ehhh! You are one pretty neat man, i must admit.

1. BD140 is BD140, despite my mistake when drawing schematic. I seriously doubt that anybody will pay such attention and mix BD140(PNP) with some other NPN. However you are right and it is good to fix that.
2. 5K1 and 4K7 will do the very same job. Doesn't really matter which one you put there. At most of local shops is impossiblle to find 5K1, so as i heared from other people in surrounding countries. Yet there are some shops where those can be obtained. So...5K1 or 4K7 ...trust me, no differences in this particular design. I tried both at many handmades. Not important at all.
3. Same thing as with 5K1. 24K is sometimes pretty hard to obtain. 22K tested many times and working same as 24K...Not important at all.
4. two back to back polarized 10uF elcos have exactly the same effect as one not polarized 5uF. Not important at all.
5. Diode in schematic and not on pcb. Never mind at all. I put that diode in process of experimenting. With or without it - the same thing. Your choice.
With diode included i noticed some minor improvements. Bairly noticeable, only with scope. Not important at all.
6. LM358 is going to +12, BUT it does make sence only if you include battery test components. Otherwise it is not important at all if it is gonna go to +12V or to +8V. Not important at all. No differences at all.

So...helpful to beginners is just to obey pcb and components placements i posted there. Schematic is just for illustration there.
Yet i agree Qiaozhi to change files there with your corrections. Suits me.
It is better to have all the details corrected 100%.
In both cases i agree.
Regards!

[simonbaker]

Did you read Ivconic's TGSL guide here? -> http://www.geotech1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15710

Thanks Qiaozhi for pointing to it -- I had missed that somehow -- I especially like Ivconic's coil-making pdf, much work to do that, thanks again Ivconic.

Qiaozhi: for the record, note that the schematic in that zip file has some mistakes (e.g. BD140 should be PNP) and does not always match TGSLFinal pcb, although the PCB is good.

To best of my ability, attached is schematic to match TGSLFinal for anyone who likes exact schematics -- still no guarantees!

Changes:

1. Changed BD140 to PNP type.
2. Changed 5k1 on schematic to 4.7k like PCB.
3. Changed 22k on schematic to 24k like PCB
4. Two back-to-back 10u capacitors on PCB instead of 4.7u non-polar.
5. Removed diode D5 from CD4024 diodes to gnd since not on PCB.
6. LM358 V+ changed to +12v like PCB from +8v.

Maybe helpful to beginners (like me).

-SB

[Qiaozhi]

dear max esteban

you forgot about my questions due to pizza, i will remove it
any way my machine
1-the sound is not single

2-the depth distance differe from time to time.

3-i used Qiaohze way of nulling i could get zero volt but it changes itself to let say 5m .6.4 etc also after zero i saw it start from minus!!!!?

4-Depth 15cm for 1.7cm alexander silver coin sometimes abit more

5-the Disc is good i can reject pliser pulltab cigaret Box

kind regards

Did you read Ivconic's TGSL guide here? -> http://www.geotech1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15710

[metaldetector107]

TGSL

dear max esteban

you forgot about my questions due to pizza, i will remove it
any way my machine
1-the sound is not single

2-the depth distance differe from time to time.

3-i used Qiaohze way of nulling i could get zero volt but it changes itself to let say 5m .6.4 etc also after zero i saw it start from minus!!!!?

4-Depth 15cm for 1.7cm alexander silver coin sometimes abit more

5-the Disc is good i can reject pliser pulltab cigaret Box

kind regards