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  • ishtar hunter
    replied
    Originally posted by Funfinder View Post
    Hi geo-i

    if we're lucky now we are very close to success!

    So attention and concentration please.
    Because you won't destroy the Jeohunter
    by another mistake.

    Very good the accu-pack is OK again. Well done!

    The vertical board is the PCB shown on the picture below.
    Just take a closer look so we know nothing was burned.


    And you can see the variable resistor connection in "real".

    But you need 20cm wires and solder a 470 Ohm
    resistor in line, between the cable and the resistor:




    This is a simple sketch of the correct connection:

    -------470 Ohm resistor------18cm isolated wire------> jeohunter board
    |
    |
    ---------------------
    | variable resistor |
    ---------------------
    |
    |
    --------------------------------20cm isolated wire------> jeohunter board



    After this attach everything the right way and carefully.
    Next we are ready for the tests. Good luck.
    Hi dear funfinder
    Do you know what type of transistor this piece is on the front panel of the device?

    Leave a comment:


  • Funfinder
    replied
    Accu - Care-Taking

    Since 2 years no reply - wow - time runs fast!
    I guess it's also because the main attention went to the DeepHunter and Makro Racer.


    However, since it works with special accus someone has to look at them from time to
    time so they will not become deep-depleted.

    The Jeohunter and also the DeepHunter works also very good to refresh them.
    Just plug them into the main box without coil connected and wait some hours.

    I kept them for 1 year in the fridge without charging and it worked perfect.
    After the first loading the blocks from 2013 have had 5 hours power
    while those from 2009 have 4h.

    And I guess instead of storing them fully charged its better with 80%.
    This is around 1 hour of discharging inside of the Jeohunter or DeepHunter
    after the accus have been fully charged.

    And there should be 3 depleting and 3 charging cycles in total to recover the full power.

    Apropos:
    I really wanna remind you to write a little accu-charging list so you can keep track
    of when was the last time when devices with accus have been charged!
    Forgetting those dates can result in total deep-depletion and if you have a XP Deus
    or Blisstool other detector with inbuilt accus it can result in expensive etc. problems.
    The more electronic devices with inbuilt batteries you have, the more important it is!

    And recharging accus just once a year is convenient but also a little risky,
    depending on the quality and internal circuits. Better is once each half year
    for lithium-polymer batteries and ca. every 4 months for NiMH cells.

    Click image for larger version

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  • Funfinder
    replied
    @ johnny777
    Hi, thx for the reply but sorry - if I understood it right: there is no such option to input some metal's object size into the Jeohunter and then the detector
    looks out for stuff that fits to that size.

    Detailed info is in the Jeohunter manual on page 28-29:

    (at this site select your prefered language at [Jeohunter 3D User Manual] and download the pdf file)


    Short explained the depth scan works that way:
    If you find something, move with your coil from left and right to the find until the signal starts.
    coil end]] -> -> -> [beep starts] [=find signal size in cm=] [beep starts] <- <- <- [[coil end

    Notice or remind the distance inbetween left and right from where the detection beep starts at the search-coils "ring region".

    Next do the same 90° from the other side of the find so in total you will get width and length of the find-signal.

    Input those values into the depth anaysis menu press accept and afterwards press the SCAN button and move slowly over the whole detection region.

    Afterwards you can see the depth analysis.

    There is also a help-animation for this directly shown on the Jeohunters screen for very easy understanding.
    But if you need to know more info about it just ask me again and I can explain it to you totally detailed.
    You also can test the depth-analysis with in-air-finds but that way the results could be a bit out of real depth because its not for the air calibrated.


    Ground effect:
    While walking the ground can change but I guess the problem you have is that the detector starts to beep after some time.
    This has nothing to do with the ground effect but with the sensitivity.
    The solution is simple: Hold the coil at 5-10cm over the ground and press the reset button.
    This way you also can get the most sensitivity if you hunt very close to the surface - only with 1-3cm coil-ground distance.

    Calibrate the ground to perfection is not so simple because the ground can change.
    The best way is if you know directly what kind of soil do you have where you live:

    Is it desert sand or is is limestone with humus (low mineralic), is it red earth or black sand (= pretty high mineralic)
    Is it loam or wet saltwater-beach sand (high mineralic) or concrete and mixed stones (medium mineralic)

    For high mineralic input minus -80 as a standard value, for medium minus 20 and for low mineralic plus 20.
    That way you get already real good results.

    And if you need the perfect depth:
    silver and huge gold and nobel metal stuff is better detectable in medium- to low-mineralic ground and if you input a higher ground balance value like plus 50.

    Very deep rusty iron and gold alloy stuff is extremly good detectable at high mineralic ground if the values are at around -100 to -50.

    This has to do with the "contrast-factor window" - you can compare it with a radio that is more sensitive to the special frequency-band for which it is made for.
    And also keep in mind to hunt in all metal mode all the time to get the maximum depth.
    If you found something you can check with the Jeohunters metal-analysis if its iron or not and then decide if you wanna dig it out.
    That way you get the highest depth.

    If you wanna find very deep and larger objects it would be the best for you if you really bury something larger at say 1 - 1,5 meter
    directly at the same ground where also the searched treasure seems to be buried!
    This way you get very fast the best experience and you can easy try out at what ground balance value the detection is optimal.

    Take some steel bucket or something larger, bury it at 1meter or deeper and check out how good you can detect it and
    how you can improve your detection results. Or if you have the 1 meter search-coil, too, test how much coil-ground distance
    gives the best results for you.
    And dont forget: the higher the sensitivity the more the reset button has to be pressed for best depth results
    and to be shure that you got a 100% clear find-signal. After some while you will recognize it very fast if the signal
    is repeatable and good enough or if it was a ground-disturbance or the coil came to close to the surface etc.

    Well, this is the good old non-motion technology! Not so simple to work as with motion-detectors but up to 30% deeper
    (and its anyway deeper already - just because of the 45cm coil size - than most other detectors)
    if you can handle this machine good enough. And compared to motion detectors the Jeohunter is completly immune against electro-smog!
    You even can make the in-air tests in your living-room directly near the TV and Computer, no problem!

    Good luck!





    @ Davor
    Hi, so far what I found out about the whole thing (see below just a part of my already detected bottlecaps...) is:
    There exists different alloys and so are the signals, depending on rust-level, depth and ground-conditions.

    However the size and shape remains pretty the same so the signal is often also the same:
    A very loud and somehow longer "powerful" beep with sharp edges.
    Those can-open-pull-rings are not so powerful and have a higher (noble -> aluminium) metal ID value.

    btw. the Jeohunter or DeepHunter can discriminate this stuff simple by "signal-lenght".
    All the time a very loud and short signal occures which fades away very fast if the coil is lifted up a bit from the surface
    it is most of the time either a beercap, a pull-tab, a little alu-piece or.... a coin!
    There exists methods to discriminate all of the not wanted stuff but often they are not failproven or they need alot experience
    and practice over a long time with one and the same detector.

    For me it is no big problem because I have my special method:
    If the Pinpointer is sensitive enough those beercaps or also the larger alu-caps from bottles get detected directly up to 5-8cm below the surface.
    So if you use before digging the Pinpointer always !!! (as a quick-check), which is a good method to prevent unneccessary digging many times, this stuff is not much work.

    Otherwise the risk to miss coins or other interesting stuff could be simply too high.

    I hope at least in some arabic countries there are not so many "alcohol-bottle-caps" everywhere around!
    But perhaps instead more dangerous stuff...

    Click image for larger version

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  • Davor
    replied
    Originally posted by Funfinder View Post
    Beer-bootle caps are always a big problem - almost any metal-detector finds them as "gold" or even higher valued metal.
    That's because they are made of galvanized steel, and the thin coloured metal sheet on top of steel responds as small gold - which also comes in thin sheets.
    There is a way around it. Any detector capable of reacting to iron with different tone will at some point give the iron tone when encountering a bottle cap. Same is with spam cans. Point is that iron objects are prone to orientation affected detection. So every iron object pointing at the detector coil will have much larger signal than the same object laying flat against it. My simple IGSL has a lower tone responding to iron (dah), so such targets respond as dah-dee-dah in each direction. Same goes with steel cored coins as well.

    Leave a comment:


  • johnny777
    replied
    Ok thank you so much for your reply. I also wanted to ask one thing, from what I understand when, we input the values for the depth search, I undertand that we enter the percieved size of the object that we are looking for not yes? For exmaple if we are looking for something small we input 10x10 cm and if we are looking for something like a barrel 100x 100 cm? is that right? I also have constant issues with calibrating the ground effect, it seemes like sometimes i set the ground effect to 45 than the scanner works ok, in 10 minutes i reset the scanner and at 45 it doesnt work at all and I have to recalibrate it. Could you please give me some advice on how to calibrate the ground effect till perfection? THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR YOUR HELP!!

    Leave a comment:


  • Funfinder
    replied
    Hi Orbit,
    thx for your reply saying that I could help you.
    btw. if you hunt for underground room things it is good if you have already some cavity-test-object hidden at the same ground- and soil-conditions.
    That way you can see how deep it is located and what ground-balance value gives the highest sensitivity. Usually a lower ground balance value
    (a value at around -70 to plus 40)) raises the sensitivity for special mineralic stones and cavity.


    Hi johnny777,
    The general search coil is very deep:
    it will detect a 30x45cm Alu-case at 2meters distance or a steel door at 3meters50 in air, all metal, 100% sensitivity.
    I have tested this personally. In usual ground this is reduced but the result is still good - if you have enough experience.

    Beer-bootle caps are always a big problem - almost any metal-detector finds them as "gold" or even higher valued metal.
    Its because of the shape and the alloys.

    The depth-scan-screen only shows the correct deep-values if the detect object is 10cmx10cm or larger.

    And most of the time, as example if you hunt for a treasure-chest or a box made of steel,
    you will get a very large find signal and if it is deep it shows a very low (flat) curve (=weak, deep signal) on the main screen of the detector.

    A very short beep with high oscillator-curve on the screen (formed like a steep mountain) instead most of the time signalizes
    that the find is pretty small and close to the surface.

    Sometimes first also the new modern civilization metal trash has to be removed from a hunting site until the deeper stuff becames detectable.
    You can do this with a little metal detector if its faster.

    I wish you good luck, this is now just a little bit the beginning problems, after that you will get fantastic finds.

    Leave a comment:


  • johnny777
    replied
    Hi, The result I got was while using the General search coil. are you saying that it is impossible to get such result with this coil? The thing that it was confusing with gold was a beer cap. From what I understand there are many different metals that go into such cap and that why it confused it with gold is that correct?. Thank you for your help

    Leave a comment:


  • Orbit
    replied
    @Hi Orbit,
    cavity is the deeper tone, you can simple imitate cavity with a brick-stone or hot-rock.
    Usually cavity gets detected if the soil or ground gives good enough contrast (therefore it must be at least somehow mineralic)
    compared with the sealed hole, tomb, tunnel, cellar or whatever. It needs some experience because this is a high sensitive non-motion-detector
    where the zero-point or quiet-zone of the detector easily can get out of center at sensitivity 80%-100%.





    thank you Funfinder !understand how does it work believe it ...

    Leave a comment:


  • Funfinder
    replied
    The timing with those new posts matches good cause just 2 days ago I was 8 hours on the way with my still super working Jeohunter!
    For sorting out finds by size at huge areas (just finding the big stuff) this detector is simply the most effective.
    Click image for larger version

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    @ Orbit
    > Hello Fufindr !- do not read all , Tell me How do you know the cavity ?whether the tone increases or reducing the ?

    Hi Orbit,
    cavity is the deeper tone, you can simple imitate cavity with a brick-stone or hot-rock.
    Usually cavity gets detected if the soil or ground gives good enough contrast (therefore it must be at least somehow mineralic)
    compared with the sealed hole, tomb, tunnel, cellar or whatever. It needs some experience because this is a high sensitive non-motion-detector
    where the zero-point or quiet-zone of the detector easily can get out of center at sensitivity 80%-100%.



    @ Hi johnny,
    Congratulations that you could get a Jeohunter.
    Did you got this ultra deep detection result with the 1m coil?!

    Usually such very deep targets are extremly hard to detect so I doubt it was a real signal.

    The thing with steel confused as gold is pretty complex - it has to to with the size and shape and alloy and the soil-conditions.
    Usual low quality iron gets discriminated very good and it does not show up as gold, but steel objects can.

    johnny777, since you're very new to the Jeohunter usage I suggest first you start with some test to get experience.
    Bury a soft-drink can or a fuel-container or something larger 1-2meters deep and try out how good you can detect it
    and what kind of detection-analyses-screen-results you get.
    That way you also learn if the detection-results are proven real and not the cause of unclear coil-movement or
    changing ground-conditions.

    However I wish you already good luck; with this detector you can search through huge areas and
    it is totally immune against electro-smog. Just ask if you need more info, your welcome.

    Leave a comment:


  • johnny777
    replied
    hello Funfinder!...
    i see im new in this site and i need your help now..pls!..
    i have jeohunter 3D buy marz 2013 and i use it in filipines.
    the 1st scan is around 6m deep and they scan the object is exactly 42cmX49cm so we happy but..
    after we diger almost 8m deep stil nothing!
    and next project we also scan inside bunkier coz that time i dont know if the scanner is not for scan inside any bulding
    also betside any buildin...sorry...
    but now when we try scanning really material litle deep the scanner always schows nonsense like iron is gold and also
    the gold is iron...
    i think the scanner was out of tune bcoz of the scan inside building..right?..
    I now need your advice what should I do with it? ...
    thank you so much if you help me
    best regards
    Johnny
    P.S.
    im very sorry about my english coz not good

    Leave a comment:


  • Orbit
    replied
    Hello Fufindr !- do not read all , Tell me How do you know the cavity ?whether the tone increases or reducing the ?

    Leave a comment:


  • Funfinder
    replied
    MEGA SEARCH

    Attention:
    The following treasure-hunting method was completly invented by me.
    It works perfectly with Jeohunter and DeepHunter ONE METER coils!

    Please don't copy it for other detectors with lousy 1m P.I. coils - you need induction balance to get it work.



    The coil moves perfectly at around 7-10cm (3-4 inches) over the ground !!!

    Draging is super easy !!!!

    See the pictures to get finally a first REAL VIEW of the size relations in this world - HUGE MEADOWS ETC. NEEDS HUGE COILS, at least 45cm!

    The pole has to be fixed beyond the edge of the coil so it can be layed down on the ground and to roll the coil forwards but also back.

    Weight:
    I brought the detector, 1m coil and what was else needed by mountain-bike to the hunting-ground, but you need some fitness for this,
    especially if you have to transport afterwards heavy finds the return way. Better use something motorized.

    Sensitivity:
    It is truly amazing, but the Jeohunter's and also the new DeepHunter's 1m coil is able to hunt with sensitivity 80% at such very close range over the ground
    WITHOUT false beeps - with iron on and at normal to fast pace speed.
    Of course this is much better concerning higher find-rate compared to walking with this coil 20-35cm over the ground with 2 persons!

    Maximum sensitivity: With some experience and with reset-button mod it is no big deal to hunt at 100% sensitivity and with iron off.



    User-Friendly:
    This is perfect - even a child can drag this coil hundreds of meters over the flat areas!


    Needed:
    A lightweight Mini-Metal-Detector for pinpointing is very useful. See the last picture, such a cheap 30 Euro security-detector already does a good job.


    Cavity:
    Don't forget: With DeepHunter or Jeohunter and the 1meter coil, you also can find huge cavity and cellars. No P.I. will show you them.


    Searchcoil-cable:
    It has to be fixed near where the pole is attached to the coil to reduce swinging and moving around.
    It is absolutly no problem leading the coil cable over the outer ring of the search-coil and fix it directly where the pole is mounted by a rope.


    turn around radius:
    ca 1meter or 3 feets
    This means if you wanna go back you can "drive" easily if the road is 2meters broad
    but of course you also can move the coil by hand directly 180° against the earlier direction.


    Extremly high amount of searched area:
    This coil is 1meter broad (and it can find already stuff from larger coin size if its close to the ground !!!).

    Here some calculation:
    1meter broad and walking forwards 2,8 meters in one second x 60 = 168 square-meter per minute !!!
    168 x 60 = 10080 squaremeter per hour which is a size of 100 x 100 meter or 10 x 1000 squaremeter
    which means you can search 10 rows each 1km long if you walk at 10km per hour speed.

    With usual detectors (and heavy 45cm coil work) only a 5-10th of this is possible not to forget
    the extreme burden for the muscles while draging the 1m coil is as good as no work at all.


    Prospecting:
    It all starts to find first a location where really is something precious to find.
    People have to consult geologists and have to drill testholes in the mountains just to see if is something there.
    But the same applies also to treasure-hunt: First a lucrative and good spot has to be discovered!
    So the 1m coil is perfect for this task and afterwards you can do the "fine-search" with smaller coils,
    but first a good and promising area has to be found at all - and you don't come very far or deep with the usual small coils.
    So this new 1m coil drag-technology is perfect to reach so far undiscovered treasure-locations.

    Good luck!



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  • Funfinder
    replied
    Jeohunter Volume Mod 2014

    My Jeohunter is already from 2010 and it was produced and developed around 2008-2009 but it is still a great and of course fully working detector!


    My DeepHunter moding-activity yesterday was inspiring, thats why today I made the Jeohunter volume mod.

    I had a spare "big potentiometer" but I wanted to save it for something else later so I used one of those little variable resistors.
    After I soldered the cables I filled the backside with melted plastic so it will hold at the Jeohunters plastic case.

    btw: learn to melt plastic with your soldering-iron, learn to bring plastic into the wanted shape and form if its fluid, it will give you alot profit.

    Afterwards fastly get fresh air into your working-room or use ventilation otherwise it coud became a serious health risk.
    But I did this already hundred of times an never had any problems, so don't be too afraid.

    And depending on the chemistry you should not get a huge amount of direkt smoke or fume into your eyes, it could feel like acid.
    But it can absolutly give you great results if you melt plastic-stuff with your soldering iron or mount parts directly.
    Have some paper tissues ready on the table to clean the soldering iron from the fuming rests directly after every working step
    to reduce poison gases and don't burn your fingers while cleaning the soldering-iron tip - it can happen faster as you think.



    the mod is totally simple:

    Disconnect and remove the accu-pack.
    Open the 6 screws on the bottom, cut the white cable (the yellow one does not work) which leads to or from the headphone jack
    and solder 2 cables and 1 variable resistor or potentiometer inbetween.

    Of course this mod is pure luxury if Audio Volume step 1 out of ten still should be too loud.
    And yes, personally I think audio set digitally to only level 1 sometimes still is a bit too much.
    btw. The most simple mod (I used so far) is to stick some cartboard before or inside the speaker hole.

    Finally find some place where to fix the variable resistor - The side with the other connectors is the best choice.
    If you are experienced in melting plastic you can directly join the resistor with the plastic box wall, no problem.
    But I haven't melted any larger grip or handle to the little usual screw-driver adjustable turnable part of the resistor,
    because it was already good enough by default at the used location for adjusting the volume directly with the fingers.


    The Jeohunter now after 4-5 years may be already "retro" for many persons but If you can get it for a good price
    and if you are interested in cavity detection and very deep larger objects it is still one of the best detectors ever.
    And you can even modify the DeepHunters 1m coil to use it with the Jeohunters coil-cable connector and use
    some wheel-roller for the ultimative treasure-hunting experience!


    Jeohunter 2014 volume mod c.jpg connectors from left to right:
    headphone, coilcable, resetbutton-connector, LCD-on-off switch and now the new volume control
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • Funfinder
    replied
    hi landman

    thanks for your big interest in this kind of special detectors and technology. If you have any further questions just ask.

    Good luck.

    Leave a comment:


  • landman
    replied
    Read every word of all 26 pages and in a word...Excellent!

    Leave a comment:

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