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  • sdesic
    replied
    Originally posted by Silver Dollar View Post
    I just rediscovered a spray paint that contains graphite to make easy work of shielding.
    Here's a link to Tractor Supply To buy some;



    And here's the thread I found it in;

    http://www.geotech1.com/forums/showt...nductive-paint
    this is European version

    Leave a comment:


  • Silver Dollar
    replied
    I just rediscovered a spray paint that contains graphite to make easy work of shielding.
    Here's a link to Tractor Supply To buy some;



    And here's the thread I found it in;

    Leave a comment:


  • jlsilicon
    replied
    For reference, here is an example to show this X to Y curve :


    And, described a little here:
    General tech discussions on all types of metal detectors: VLF, 2-box, BFO, off-resonance, PLL, etc. Questions, ideas, and anything else that moves you.

    Leave a comment:


  • golfnut
    replied
    Originally posted by jlsilicon View Post
    I just realized a problem in the PicBasic or Arduino X/Y Readings Software :

    The X/Y Map is an Elipse (squished circle) angled by the Metal's X and R, the Reactive and Resistive Components.
    So, a Sample of Readings over a Time Frame will vary around the Elipse.
    These readings often will not follow the Simple Division Equation used in the Software.
    Because, it is NOT a SIMPLE LINE ...
    Especially on the ends of the Elipse.

    This would explain the range of readings that I get.

    I saw a good Oscilliscope Vid and Photos somewhere ...
    Your right, the largest values in your array would be though, max X and max R for the tan-1 function.

    You notice on commercial units sometimes it takes several passes to give a good ID and even then the reading fluctuates

    Leave a comment:


  • sdesic
    replied
    Originally posted by sinclairuser View Post
    i used a small square of copper tape(4mm square), i stuck this on the card and soldered the fine tag wire to it, then i coated the card with graphite making sure i put a nice dollop on the soldered spot.
    for the bottom piece of card i did the same thing added a small square and put a tag wire on it, if you find the right spot to place the tag you only need a small length of fine wire to join the two, the shield braid solders to this, the graphite i use is graphite powder mixed with clear acrylic lacquer, to sat dave uk's recipe, the only difference between his and my recipe is he uses polyurethane varnish, i am violently allergic to polyurethane paints so substituted acrylic lacquer.
    i did try spray on graphite but i think its a- too expensive, b- too loose it needs a fixing agent, c- makes a bloody mess as it just comes back off.
    with a nice coat the solvent soaks into the card (then dries) leaving a solid carbonised faraday shield which works very well for me.
    Pictures of White's coil bottom part
    Click image for larger version

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    Click image for larger version

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    pictures are worth 1000 words ?

    Leave a comment:


  • sinclairuser
    replied
    Originally posted by Koala View Post
    How do you connect your tap wire to the card. I have tried just tape and it works well but don't think long term reliability would be good. Also tried graphite mixed with PVA glue into something like toothpaste this is conductive but you can pull the wire straight off as it dries as a powder.
    i used a small square of copper tape(4mm square), i stuck this on the card and soldered the fine tag wire to it, then i coated the card with graphite making sure i put a nice dollop on the soldered spot.
    for the bottom piece of card i did the same thing added a small square and put a tag wire on it, if you find the right spot to place the tag you only need a small length of fine wire to join the two, the shield braid solders to this, the graphite i use is graphite powder mixed with clear acrylic lacquer, to sat dave uk's recipe, the only difference between his and my recipe is he uses polyurethane varnish, i am violently allergic to polyurethane paints so substituted acrylic lacquer.
    i did try spray on graphite but i think its a- too expensive, b- too loose it needs a fixing agent, c- makes a bloody mess as it just comes back off.
    with a nice coat the solvent soaks into the card (then dries) leaving a solid carbonised faraday shield which works very well for me.

    Leave a comment:


  • der_fisherman
    replied
    I watched all three videos, I learnt nothing. What was the point?

    Andy

    Leave a comment:


  • Koala
    replied
    How do you connect your tap wire to the card. I have tried just tape and it works well but don't think long term reliability would be good. Also tried graphite mixed with PVA glue into something like toothpaste this is conductive but you can pull the wire straight off as it dries as a powder.

    Leave a comment:


  • sinclairuser
    replied
    Originally posted by Koala View Post
    See your problem not a good housing for this solution


    Does not have to be close to the windings you could just stick the circle of cardboard to the top and bottom just to prove it works.


    Would have to work out some type of waterproofing for a long term solution


    I have the same problem with packaging on one of my coils. Can't figure out why wrapping micopore tap around the coil and covering with carbon does not work as well as the cardboard. Think it might be the tiny creases that cause a none smooth coating. Need to try a couple more experiments.

    Haven't tried covering the micropore before wrapping around the coil to give a more even coating
    Haven't tried wrapping a single layer around the outside of the coil instead of spiraling it around
    Haven't tried spacing it away from the windings


    You could try the graphite spray directly to the housing.


    Tried and failed with micropore tape spiraled around each winding and then covered in graphite
    Tried and failed with one layer of PVC tape then space blanket then PVC
    Tried and failed with two layers of PVC tape then space blanket then two layers PVC
    Tried and failed with tap wire under the space blanket conductive side down
    Tried and failed with tap wire above the space blanket conductive side up
    Tried with the shield connected at the RX GND at the coil
    Tried with the shield connected only at the box end
    Tried with the coil connector shielded and none shielded
    Coil covered with space blanket is worse than no shield at all
    Tried some with a second TX and RX windings same results.
    Gave up with space blanket
    Can't find out why it does not work for me as others have had success using the space blanket.

    Card worked straight out of the box. Not just a fluke as I have tried again same result. Still not quite as good as my factory coil but pretty good.
    Hi koala, been reading your posts in this thread, and what you say is spot on, i could not get space blanket to work either, a simple shield made from stiff paper or fine card coated in graphite worked every time for me.
    so now i just make a card faraday shield and coat it with graphite, and its surprising how little graphite makes a useable shield.

    Leave a comment:


  • mikipn
    replied
    Hack Lugatek VDI

    Part1


    Part2


    Part3

    Leave a comment:


  • jlsilicon
    replied
    I just realized a problem in the PicBasic or Arduino X/Y Readings Software :

    The X/Y Map is an Elipse (squished circle) angled by the Metal's X and R, the Reactive and Resistive Components.
    So, a Sample of Readings over a Time Frame will vary around the Elipse.
    These readings often will not follow the Simple Division Equation used in the Software.
    Because, it is NOT a SIMPLE LINE ...
    Especially on the ends of the Elipse.

    This would explain the range of readings that I get.

    I saw a good Oscilliscope Vid and Photos somewhere ...

    Leave a comment:


  • sdesic
    replied
    Koala,

    Wow you have done it all
    Review of shielding in full.
    Can you post picture of your finished coil.
    You have used graphit spray and cardboard - from top and bottom.

    We should have sticky posts here for latest schematics and PCBs.
    I think this is latest ?
    Geotech_VDI.rar

    Leave a comment:


  • Koala
    replied
    Originally posted by sdesic View Post
    How do you do you cut card board to fit coil enclosure ?

    My coils are in this shape ...
    [ATTACH]30895[/ATTACH]

    You have cover under coil ?
    See your problem not a good housing for this solution


    Does not have to be close to the windings you could just stick the circle of cardboard to the top and bottom just to prove it works.


    Would have to work out some type of waterproofing for a long term solution


    I have the same problem with packaging on one of my coils. Can't figure out why wrapping micopore tap around the coil and covering with carbon does not work as well as the cardboard. Think it might be the tiny creases that cause a none smooth coating. Need to try a couple more experiments.

    Haven't tried covering the micropore before wrapping around the coil to give a more even coating
    Haven't tried wrapping a single layer around the outside of the coil instead of spiraling it around
    Haven't tried spacing it away from the windings


    You could try the graphite spray directly to the housing.


    Tried and failed with micropore tape spiraled around each winding and then covered in graphite
    Tried and failed with one layer of PVC tape then space blanket then PVC
    Tried and failed with two layers of PVC tape then space blanket then two layers PVC
    Tried and failed with tap wire under the space blanket conductive side down
    Tried and failed with tap wire above the space blanket conductive side up
    Tried with the shield connected at the RX GND at the coil
    Tried with the shield connected only at the box end
    Tried with the coil connector shielded and none shielded
    Coil covered with space blanket is worse than no shield at all
    Tried some with a second TX and RX windings same results.
    Gave up with space blanket
    Can't find out why it does not work for me as others have had success using the space blanket.

    Card worked straight out of the box. Not just a fluke as I have tried again same result. Still not quite as good as my factory coil but pretty good.

    Leave a comment:


  • sdesic
    replied
    How do you do you cut card board to fit coil enclosure ?

    My coils are in this shape ...
    Click image for larger version

Name:	CORPUS 27.5sm.jpg
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Size:	22.5 KB
ID:	341482

    You have cover under coil ?

    Leave a comment:


  • Koala
    replied
    Originally posted by sdesic View Post
    I will need to aquire new wire then.
    Shielding for concentric coil is simpler ... what can be done for DD ?
    I have small beeps on ends of swing - maybe shield and can be fact that I did not use resin to cover it.
    My coils are DD
    Circle of card with carbon on them under and over both the TX and RX
    Must of tried over ten times with a space blanket with two sets of windings can not get it to work properly I must be doing something stupid card works fine nice and simple just rubbed a carbon battery on it even a small circle under the coil had more success than I had with the blanket.

    Leave a comment:

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