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  • mohandes
    replied
    Originally posted by golfnut View Post
    I look at the phase plots and other peoples experiences - to fully eliminate ally you loose some sens to gold, as its close and overlaps. To try it, I think you need to slide the Disc gate timing later in time, to the right on the scope traces, to do this increase the VR3 value on the Disc RC delay - you may have a fixed resistor swap out for a trimmer ~10k . Set the Disc pot fully clockwise so in Full Disc mode, you probably fully reject iron here but accept ally. Advance the R discussed, unitl you just loose the ally. S
    thanks
    ally means friend ???
    i do this :
    VR3 - out, only R43 1k8 -> 2k2

    you say me i should have U2-12 +4volt but i have 7.93volts ???? ,this is ok??
    i put my pots like this
    Click image for larger version

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    wire that should go to wiper, going to Geb ch end of pot - so stuck in all metal. - or all of the above. S
    my friend koala please tell me more simple that mr golnut said .

    and about the VR3 if i should i put it on the pcb if it is necessary .the VR3 just for adjust to reject iron , i say ok ??


    Leave a comment:


  • wlewis
    replied
    Originally posted by golfnut View Post
    I wanted to show some decent scope traces of a solid working IDX. The way I wanted to do it was mouse hover over schematic. I aint that clever, and got some great help - So I can take no credit. As the attached exceeded the 1MByte limit - I split the content into 2 zipped folders. Extract the files in "Most of it" and the extra images need to go into the Images foler ( alongside the existing 2 images in the Images folder and open the html - hover to embrace virtual scope technology.. S
    Hi Golfnut.. is your system set up exactly like the schematic in "most of it.zip"? Also, I recall a vid of someone getting a 1.5 meter in air with an idx .. know anything about that?

    Leave a comment:


  • Koala
    replied
    Originally posted by golfnut View Post
    I look at the phase plots and other peoples experiences - to fully eliminate ally you loose some sens to gold, as its close and overlaps. To try it, I think you need to slide the Disc gate timing later in time, to the right on the scope traces, to do this increase the VR3 value on the Disc RC delay - you may have a fixed resistor swap out for a trimmer ~10k . Set the Disc pot fully clockwise so in Full Disc mode, you probably fully reject iron here but accept ally. Advance the R discussed, unitl you just loose the ally. S
    Thanks for the quick response

    Was wondering if something like this would spot the difference. Or the original holyuser display or is gold and aluminum too close together. Don't mine digging aluminum but some areas are absolutely covered in recycled molten alloy scrap (at least one per meter) which makes for very slow going. Do find finds in these areas as I don't think they are detected so much.

    Leave a comment:


  • golfnut
    replied
    I look at the phase plots and other peoples experiences - to fully eliminate ally you loose some sens to gold, as its close and overlaps. To try it, I think you need to slide the Disc gate timing later in time, to the right on the scope traces, to do this increase the VR3 value on the Disc RC delay - you may have a fixed resistor swap out for a trimmer ~10k . Set the Disc pot fully clockwise so in Full Disc mode, you probably fully reject iron here but accept ally. Advance the R discussed, unitl you just loose the ally. S

    Leave a comment:


  • mohandes
    replied
    Originally posted by golfnut View Post
    I wanted to show some decent scope traces of a solid working IDX. The way I wanted to do it was mouse hover over schematic. I aint that clever, and got some great help - So I can take no credit. As the attached exceeded the 1MByte limit - I split the content into 2 zipped folders. Extract the files in "Most of it" and the extra images need to go into the Images foler ( alongside the existing 2 images in the Images folder and open the html - hover to embrace virtual scope technology.. S
    your image very good for help us
    please write of them more information like T/D and Vol/D , or the voltages and Time .

    YOU SAY :
    Use a volt meter and out the black lead on the metal around the edge of the pcb and the red lead on pin12 of U2 FOR Disc mode the volts should be +4v OR Disc pot wired wrong - wire that should go to wiper, going to Geb ch end of pot - so stuck in all metal. - or all of the above. S

    please one people tell me easier
    regards

    Leave a comment:


  • Koala
    replied
    Yes solid machine

    Built mine to original spec on page one. I also have an original Classic SL. Still take my home made in preference over the factory one (more adjustable and deeper). Everything works as it should battery lasts for ever. Disc works well. Pinpoint mode is great to search in in clean areas (took you advise here). There is a learning curve to using the machine to it full potential.

    Just need to find a way to eliminate aluminum without loosing sensitivity to gold for the dry sand.

    Leave a comment:


  • golfnut
    replied
    I must agree I didnt do too much here as I got help, I think its a quick reference, all on the one sheet !


    Yes i agree, there are maybe 3 pcb versions out there and suspect none of the schematics map directly to any of them perfectly.

    But some people are getting results, if a bit of a crush sometimes. You have to be on the ball to get results first time. That said, they are a solid little machine for clean soil use or dry sand. S

    Leave a comment:


  • Koala
    replied
    Nice work golfnut. Seems to work well with tenfourfox browser. Thanks for all the hard work

    Think we need a project folder for the IDX with a sticky with the most current files, this and a component list in it like the Baracuda. This thread is getting too long to navigate easy.

    Leave a comment:


  • golfnut
    replied
    scope images on a schematic

    I wanted to show some decent scope traces of a solid working IDX. The way I wanted to do it was mouse hover over schematic. I aint that clever, and got some great help - So I can take no credit. As the attached exceeded the 1MByte limit - I split the content into 2 zipped folders. Extract the files in "Most of it" and the extra images need to go into the Images foler ( alongside the existing 2 images in the Images folder and open the html - hover to embrace virtual scope technology.. S
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • golfnut
    replied
    Hi mohandes if you Disc dont work you did one of two things .. You did not populate the 100k pull up on pin 12 of U2 and so cant select Disc mode. Confirm with a measurement of volts on pin 12 of U2. Use a volt meter and out the black lead on the metal around the edge of the pcb and the red lead on pin12 of U2 FOR Disc mode the volts should be +4v OR Disc pot wired wrong - wire that should go to wiper, going to Geb ch end of pot - so stuck in all metal. - or all of the above. S

    Leave a comment:


  • mohandes
    replied
    Originally posted by wlewis View Post
    Can you post an image of the pcb with the changes regarding the 1n4148? The 1M and 22N are in parallel between pin 1 and pin 2 LF347 - are you saying add a 1n4148 in series with these? you would have to cut a trace to do that or what?

    Otherwise, I understand change the 3.9N to 3.3N / and 470R to 47R. I removed vr3 and put a 2.2k in place of the 1.8k - is that right? Did you change the 1M to 2.2M off of U4?


    What kind of depth are you getting?
    YES YOU DO EVERY THING , MY MEANS THAT 4148 parallel , and remove it
    please take photo your rx and tx coil and ne5534-6
    just sure all thing is ok
    i can detect 2000rial (iranian money) in 30-35 cm and good but disk mode not work for me

    Leave a comment:


  • wlewis
    replied
    Originally posted by mohandes View Post
    IT IS WORK
    REMOVE VR3 ,1N4148 THAT SERIES BY 1M AND 22N AND PIN1 LF347
    CHANGE 3.9N ( SERIES TO TX COIL AND UNDER 2.2N )TO 3.3N
    FOR SPEAKER YOU CAN USE 470OHM OR 47 OHM OR ANY RES THAT HAVE A GOOD VOICE ,IN U4 MY MEANS
    PLEASE SHOW US WITH OSCOPE YOUR ALL WAVES THAT NEED.
    REGARDS
    Can you post an image of the pcb with the changes regarding the 1n4148? The 1M and 22N are in parallel between pin 1 and pin 2 LF347 - are you saying add a 1n4148 in series with these? you would have to cut a trace to do that or what?

    Otherwise, I understand change the 3.9N to 3.3N / and 470R to 47R. I removed vr3 and put a 2.2k in place of the 1.8k - is that right? Did you change the 1M to 2.2M off of U4?

    What kind of depth are you getting?
    Last edited by wlewis; 12-05-2013, 12:49 PM. Reason: corrections

    Leave a comment:


  • mohandes
    replied
    Originally posted by wlewis View Post
    Is the replacement of the diode (D3) with a 2.7v zener the only "valid" mod on this board?

    I didn't get results using Eduardo's pcb version without the trimmer. I'm going back to silverdog's version.
    IT IS WORK
    REMOVE VR3 ,1N4148 THAT SERIES BY 1M AND 22N AND PIN1 LF347
    CHANGE 3.9N ( SERIES TO TX COIL AND UNDER 2.2N )TO 3.3N
    FOR SPEAKER YOU CAN USE 470OHM OR 47 OHM OR ANY RES THAT HAVE A GOOD VOICE ,IN U4 MY MEANS
    PLEASE SHOW US WITH OSCOPE YOUR ALL WAVES THAT NEED.
    REGARDS

    Leave a comment:


  • wlewis
    replied
    Originally posted by golfnut View Post
    The single diode could be considered a 0.7 volt zener. Some versions have 2 diode in series = 1.4v zener. 3x0.7 = 2.1v zener action etc. You can put a 2v7 volt Zener on and that acts like a 2.7v diode drop. The thing to watch is, if the silkscreen has a 1n4148 diode and you want to put a zener in - it must go the opposite way round. Because zener breakdown is from the cathode to anode and a forward volt drop of forward conducting diode goes from anode to cathode. S
    Is the replacement of the diode (D3) with a 2.7v zener the only "valid" mod on this board?

    I didn't get results using Eduardo's pcb version without the trimmer. I'm going back to silverdog's version.

    Leave a comment:


  • golfnut
    replied
    The single diode could be considered a 0.7 volt zener. Some versions have 2 diode in series = 1.4v zener. 3x0.7 = 2.1v zener action etc. You can put a 2v7 volt Zener on and that acts like a 2.7v diode drop. The thing to watch is, if the silkscreen has a 1n4148 diode and you want to put a zener in - it must go the opposite way round. Because zener breakdown is from the cathode to anode and a forward volt drop of forward conducting diode goes from anode to cathode. S

    Leave a comment:

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