MANUFACTURE PCB

[moodz]

Hi Moodz
thanks for the tip
I put down my tea and biscuits and raced off to the local craft shop
but they did not know what I was asking for.
Have you bought this vinyl sticker stuff some where in Melbourne ?
thanks
6666

I got some stuff from officeworks ( adhesive book cover ) .... have not tried it yet though.
Apparently some of the "contact" brand book covering film is vinyl and will do the job.
The supermarket may have it.


moodz

[6666]

Hi Moodz
thanks for the tip
I put down my tea and biscuits and raced off to the local craft shop
but they did not know what I was asking for.
Have you bought this vinyl sticker stuff some where in Melbourne ?
thanks
6666

[moodz]

I don't know for other producers, in example from picture both sides are ok.

Biscuits are yummy but some of the best results for toner transfer are being done by printing on vinyl sticker material ( which is also very cheap BTW )

see .... http://electroni-city.com/photo-gall...um=1&gallery=1

moodz

[schpeedy]

Making a PCB photo method at home


1. Pre-treatment - cleaning the surface.
The surface of the paint will be applied must be absolutely clean and dry. PCB zachistva with fine sandpaper, then degreased surface as a plate is immersed for a few minutes in a solution of citric acid (limontozu). Solution is prepared by a pack limontozu diluted in 500ml to 1 liter of tap water. After skimming the surface is washed thoroughly with running water. Preparation is dried between two sheets of paper. When working with POZITIVE 20, after cleaning and drying should not be allowed contact with the surface of any other solvents (acetone, alcohol, etc.). Good varnish can be applied immediately after cleaning the surface to prevent the formation of oxide layer on the copper.
2. Application of paint.
As the elbow is sensitive mainly to ultraviolet light, no application is required to be in a dark room, but direct sunlight is not recommended. Application is allowed to use it in a little yellow light that does not directly illuminate your working place. Varnish is applied at room temperature. Intoxicated is made at a distance of 20cm as to create a uniform coverage of the entire board when spraying bottle snake moves without retaining a long time in the same place, do not get a build up of a thick layer of varnish and concourse.
3. Drying.
After applying the polish, the board is transferred to dry in a dark place. Upon drying, the practice of solvent evaporation occurs a penetration varnished. Moreover, the sensitivity of the paint greatly increased, so that the board should not be subjected to illumination.
Drying can take up to 24 hours if it is at room temperature or 20 minutes at 70 ° C
Treated board may be stored for future use, but storage must be in a dark, dry place.
4. Printed original.
Production of the original print can be made by hand (on tracing paper, ink, black ink marker or solid). Of course, if the board is designed with PROTEL or another program, print the original can be printed on a printer. If you use a laser printer, you can print the original on folic plaque (note that folic plaque for laser printer and special pleading for passage in the printer's fuser). In the case of inkjet printing on vellum note that to print it on a flat side of the tracing paper (to be received spreading of ink on paper nap). If the print density is not good enough, you can use two copies imposed on each other for illumination.


pp It is best done with transparencies for presentations
5. Exposure (Illumination).
The pattern of the original print is mounted on a treated surface fotolak board. Good idea, the template is pressed against the plate glass to ensure a snug fit over the entire area.
Positiv 20 is sensitive to UV light with a wavelength of 340-400nm. For lighting you can use a special lamp (available in some stores, but not very cheap). You can also use mercury lamp 150-300w
The duration of illumination is determined experimentally depending on the type of lamp and the distance to the workpiece. In all cases you will need to make a few samples to establish the required length for your specific conditions. It is important to note that the identification of appropriate duration should be taken into account the time for which the light enters the steady glow. Illumination should be initiated after the establishment of the lamp to normal light. For example, using a mercury bulb of 200W, located 20-25cm from the illuminated surface, the illumination duration is 60 to 120 seconds. Note also that the glass absorbs about 65% of ultraviolet radiation, so the pressure with glass, lighting time should be increased about 2 times. Transparent acrylic has better throughput and can be used on compression if you want to reduce the exposure time.
6. Developing.
Manifestation of illuminated with UV-light board is done in a solution of sodium (7gr. of 1 liter of water, it is precisely measured!) Or potassium hydroxide. Manifestation can be done in low daylight. Development time is usually within 30 to 60 seconds and less than 2 minutes. If revealing the image of the tracks do not appear on the workpiece, it may mean that the varnish layer is too thick, or that lamp power used is too small (or spectrum of light is different than the required). In the event that revealing the image appears and then disappears, it may mean that the time for lighting was too great. After development, the board is washed thoroughly with water!
7. PCB etching (acid treatment).
Pickling is a chemical decomposition of copper from the uncovered areas with varnish laminated foiled. It is usually done with a solution of ferric chloride, which is normally used in hand-painted boards. Ferric chloride in dry or liquid form is available at electronic stores and can be ordered from our site. Depending on the concentration of the solution, etching can take from 5-10 minutes to 1 hour. Process can be significantly accelerated if the solution is heated to a temperature of 45-50 ° C and stirred periodically during pickling.
Note: PCB etching should be done in a confined space. To prevent acid is good at work to use plastic gloves or at least to avoid touching the board with your hands.
8. Final cleaning.
After etching, the finished board is washed thoroughly with water to completely remove the remains of the polish and acid, then finally cleaned (eg acetone) and varnished with a solution of rosin (rosin and alcohol) or a special nail boards.

Thanks for all the advice... i´ll try it by myself... i ve already bought HCL and H2O2 and the basic platines.
I´ll post my results.

[emoxristov]

Making a PCB photo method at home


1. Pre-treatment - cleaning the surface.
The surface of the paint will be applied must be absolutely clean and dry. PCB zachistva with fine sandpaper, then degreased surface as a plate is immersed for a few minutes in a solution of citric acid (limontozu). Solution is prepared by a pack limontozu diluted in 500ml to 1 liter of tap water. After skimming the surface is washed thoroughly with running water. Preparation is dried between two sheets of paper. When working with POZITIVE 20, after cleaning and drying should not be allowed contact with the surface of any other solvents (acetone, alcohol, etc.). Good varnish can be applied immediately after cleaning the surface to prevent the formation of oxide layer on the copper.
2. Application of paint.
As the elbow is sensitive mainly to ultraviolet light, no application is required to be in a dark room, but direct sunlight is not recommended. Application is allowed to use it in a little yellow light that does not directly illuminate your working place. Varnish is applied at room temperature. Intoxicated is made at a distance of 20cm as to create a uniform coverage of the entire board when spraying bottle snake moves without retaining a long time in the same place, do not get a build up of a thick layer of varnish and concourse.
3. Drying.
After applying the polish, the board is transferred to dry in a dark place. Upon drying, the practice of solvent evaporation occurs a penetration varnished. Moreover, the sensitivity of the paint greatly increased, so that the board should not be subjected to illumination.
Drying can take up to 24 hours if it is at room temperature or 20 minutes at 70 ° C
Treated board may be stored for future use, but storage must be in a dark, dry place.
4. Printed original.
Production of the original print can be made by hand (on tracing paper, ink, black ink marker or solid). Of course, if the board is designed with PROTEL or another program, print the original can be printed on a printer. If you use a laser printer, you can print the original on folic plaque (note that folic plaque for laser printer and special pleading for passage in the printer's fuser). In the case of inkjet printing on vellum note that to print it on a flat side of the tracing paper (to be received spreading of ink on paper nap). If the print density is not good enough, you can use two copies imposed on each other for illumination.


pp It is best done with transparencies for presentations
5. Exposure (Illumination).
The pattern of the original print is mounted on a treated surface fotolak board. Good idea, the template is pressed against the plate glass to ensure a snug fit over the entire area.
Positiv 20 is sensitive to UV light with a wavelength of 340-400nm. For lighting you can use a special lamp (available in some stores, but not very cheap). You can also use mercury lamp 150-300w
The duration of illumination is determined experimentally depending on the type of lamp and the distance to the workpiece. In all cases you will need to make a few samples to establish the required length for your specific conditions. It is important to note that the identification of appropriate duration should be taken into account the time for which the light enters the steady glow. Illumination should be initiated after the establishment of the lamp to normal light. For example, using a mercury bulb of 200W, located 20-25cm from the illuminated surface, the illumination duration is 60 to 120 seconds. Note also that the glass absorbs about 65% of ultraviolet radiation, so the pressure with glass, lighting time should be increased about 2 times. Transparent acrylic has better throughput and can be used on compression if you want to reduce the exposure time.
6. Developing.
Manifestation of illuminated with UV-light board is done in a solution of sodium (7gr. of 1 liter of water, it is precisely measured!) Or potassium hydroxide. Manifestation can be done in low daylight. Development time is usually within 30 to 60 seconds and less than 2 minutes. If revealing the image of the tracks do not appear on the workpiece, it may mean that the varnish layer is too thick, or that lamp power used is too small (or spectrum of light is different than the required). In the event that revealing the image appears and then disappears, it may mean that the time for lighting was too great. After development, the board is washed thoroughly with water!
7. PCB etching (acid treatment).
Pickling is a chemical decomposition of copper from the uncovered areas with varnish laminated foiled. It is usually done with a solution of ferric chloride, which is normally used in hand-painted boards. Ferric chloride in dry or liquid form is available at electronic stores and can be ordered from our site. Depending on the concentration of the solution, etching can take from 5-10 minutes to 1 hour. Process can be significantly accelerated if the solution is heated to a temperature of 45-50 ° C and stirred periodically during pickling.
Note: PCB etching should be done in a confined space. To prevent acid is good at work to use plastic gloves or at least to avoid touching the board with your hands.
8. Final cleaning.
After etching, the finished board is washed thoroughly with water to completely remove the remains of the polish and acid, then finally cleaned (eg acetone) and varnished with a solution of rosin (rosin and alcohol) or a special nail boards.

[Davor]

Yes, it is basically the same thing on both sides. Funny thing is that it can also be soaked in water, but as I see it in "instructables" it is not needed - traces are transferred without soaking. Excellent! I needed something like this

[WM6]

does it matter which side of the paper you print on ?

I don't know for other producers, in example from picture both sides are ok.

[6666]

Hmmm yummy biscuits,
does it matter which side of the paper you print on ?

[WM6]

I just ordered some of this Heat Toner Transfer Paper, it has not arrived yet, but interested to try it out using laser printer.
Considering the cost of the paper I dont expect much, but you never know .

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/A4-10Pcs-...item27ca75648f

You can use kitchen heat resistant backing paper with same results. You only need to cut it in proper format (A4, Letter ....):

[6666]

I just ordered some of this Heat Toner Transfer Paper, it has not arrived yet, but interested to try it out using laser printer.
Considering the cost of the paper I dont expect much, but you never know .

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/A4-10Pcs-Sheets-Heat-Toner-Transfer-Paper-For-DIY-PCB-Electronic-Prototype-Mak-/170900415631?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27ca75648f

[pcbman]

schpeedy, Why don’t you make it on your own? It’s easy to do your own PCB. Just make the design of your circuit then you can do now the etching. It’s really simple. Just ask me for info on PCB making.

[schpeedy]

Is there anybody, who can make a normal PCB (for TM-808 ) for me, who lives in or near Germany/Munich? Before i buy a hole PCB-Lab for me its better to pay somebody, who is in practise.

Greets
Manuel

[pcbman]

Hi,
I used many of these ways... all have good and bad points... but just ONE is the method: photographic process.

It's simple... do you need perfection ? If so, you need that way and no other.

All the rest simply don't apply when you go for perfection...

You just need these things to get started:

1. a bromograph... though the word is complicate you can make one for less than 50$ and old flatbed scanner as example look here:

http://www.electricstuff.co.uk/pcbs.html

http://www.turbokeu.com/myprojects/pcb.htm

http://hackedgadgets.com/2007/02/24/uv-led-pcb-exposure-scanner/

Circuit Board Assembly

2. some presensitized uv pcb boards ready to use

3. a developer solution like these:

http://www.pcbfab.com/develop.html

you'll buy in reality a small bag with sodium salt to mix with water... and that's it.

Then try, make errors and get used to the method... at the end you'll make perfect pcb, no matter of other things or methods, you'll beat all them at once.

The only lack is that you cannot add a funky e.g. silkscreen to boards that way... but pcb will be absolutely perfect.

Kind regards,
Max

thanks for your input. it's appreciated.

dave

[pcbman]

I was just browsing for relevant posts for my project and I happened to stumble upon yours. Thanks for the useful information!

[sunrisetnut]

Many thanks kt315 and goodluck for you!