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  • Geo
    replied
    Hi TikTak.
    Prototype pcb is perfect, but i can't do it. It is SMD technology and i can't work with smd. If i make a pcb with through hole components and exactly as the prototype pcb then it will be very very large. So i believe tht 2 small pcbs 10x10cn or 10x12cm will be ok.
    Yesterday I began to draw the schematic to the Protel. First problem is the 2 OA near the LM336 for the power supply. I used a TL074 for a.b.c OA and leave the D unused. I did not check all the components from Ivconic pcb but i believe that we can replace all.
    Anyway..... the time will show

    Leave a comment:


  • Geo
    replied
    Originally posted by ivconic View Post
    I prefer (S)mall objects feature. It is deep enough even for larger objects at grater depths.
    Hi. I prefer (S)mall and (L)arge objects, so i must construct a full version
    As i said before long time the problem is not the difficulty of the detector but the Free Time
    Regards

    Leave a comment:


  • tiktak
    replied
    Hi,

    Hi,
    Geo.
    I dont now will this help you but just get to here and waned to share.
    I see diferances in Ivconics pictures and this schematic.Look 4053 and you will see.
    27M2 dual op amp can be replaced.Still some missing.Did you noticed the test points they are on schematic also?
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • ivconic
    replied
    Originally posted by Geo View Post
    You are not so old so your eyes are OK. My eyes are noy so good so i like the through hole pcb.....
    A good pcb will have large dimentions, so i said that i will try to make it a sandwitch with 2 pcbs. I don't afraid...... i believe that i will construct a very good detector. It is time to try it.......

    Oh no! I also don't like smt. Through hole is best choice for sure.
    Regards!

    Leave a comment:


  • ivconic
    replied
    Originally posted by Geo View Post
    Hehehe
    Hi Ivica. No problem about to build a simplier detector.
    But what would you like....... for small objects.... (small coins), for medium or for big objects (treasures)........
    I had the same opinion with you but i have not the answer
    Regards
    I prefer (S)mall objects feature. It is deep enough even for larger objects at grater depths.

    Leave a comment:


  • tiktak
    replied
    Hi,

    Originally posted by amtech2005 View Post
    TIKTAK , GREAT WORK !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    Hi,
    I have used Ivconics pictures of RH and old sprintlayout.


    Geo, I think that amtech2005 is right here!The PCB must be the same as original or there will be problemes.I have tryed also to prepare PCB but its too big so far.But I am shore that there will be space when the parts are puted right way.The probleme is that we dont have ICs,resistors,transistors labeled and also we are not shore that even this is original schematic,so I stick to PCB pictures from Ivconic.

    What is this big red part A?Voltage regulator?

    Thanks

    Leave a comment:


  • Geo
    replied
    Originally posted by ivconic View Post
    Oh one more thing; this may help a bit:
    i am not sure about original ic's . Surelly not about all in original RH.
    But i am sure about some of them; 4024,4053,27M2,TL074,4066,LM339 and LM393.
    Which one is where on schematic? I am not sure.No doubts about 4066,4024 and 4053, but op amps....? Not sure. Oh yes; NE5534 is for sure front end! This i am absolute positive!
    If this helped...fine, if not....sorry.
    Ohhhh very good.
    If you have anything else i am here to listen it
    Regards

    Btw.... TL074 must be the OpAm at oscillator and at the Power suply..... (a,b,c)

    Leave a comment:


  • Geo
    replied
    Originally posted by ivconic View Post
    Why?
    My experience in drawing new pcbs for already existing detector sometimes is very painfull. In Minelab they did it smt. We want to do that through hole here. Personally i doubt that we gonna succeed to make it properly. To work without internal hums and intermodulations. At the end it will not work good.Trust me. Just keep in mind how many switches and pots it has! Bedlam of controls! All must be "calculated" and routed very well on pcb! Remember that. To much job and success not guaranted.
    So better let's reduce this again, but also let's try to do that much better than bulgarian guys did.
    You are not so old so your eyes are OK. My eyes are noy so good so i like the through hole pcb.....
    A good pcb will have large dimentions, so i said that i will try to make it a sandwitch with 2 pcbs. I don't afraid...... i believe that i will construct a very good detector. It is time to try it.......

    Leave a comment:


  • Geo
    replied
    Originally posted by ivconic View Post
    I am also very interested in this. But..same as bulgarian guys, i would also avoid all those switching mods. To much complicated for amateur like me.
    We better choose one proper mode and "cut" schematic, make it simplier.
    I remember never used all modes at original RH.
    So bulgarian idea is good, only pcb i dont like. They "overmodded" it to much.
    Regards!
    Hehehe
    Hi Ivica. No problem about to build a simplier detector.
    But what would you like....... for small objects.... (small coins), for medium or for big objects (treasures)........
    I had the same opinion with you but i have not the answer
    Regards

    Leave a comment:


  • ivconic
    replied
    Oh one more thing; this may help a bit:
    i am not sure about original ic's . Surelly not about all in original RH.
    But i am sure about some of them; 4024,4053,27M2,TL074,4066,LM339 and LM393.
    Which one is where on schematic? I am not sure.No doubts about 4066,4024 and 4053, but op amps....? Not sure. Oh yes; NE5534 is for sure front end! This i am absolute positive!
    If this helped...fine, if not....sorry.

    Leave a comment:


  • ivconic
    replied
    Why?
    My experience in drawing new pcbs for already existing detector sometimes is very painfull. In Minelab they did it smt. We want to do that through hole here. Personally i doubt that we gonna succeed to make it properly. To work without internal hums and intermodulations. At the end it will not work good.Trust me. Just keep in mind how many switches and pots it has! Bedlam of controls! All must be "calculated" and routed very well on pcb! Remember that. To much job and success not guaranted.
    So better let's reduce this again, but also let's try to do that much better than bulgarian guys did.

    Leave a comment:


  • ivconic
    replied
    I am also very interested in this. But..same as bulgarian guys, i would also avoid all those switching mods. To much complicated for amateur like me.
    We better choose one proper mode and "cut" schematic, make it simplier.
    I remember never used all modes at original RH.
    So bulgarian idea is good, only pcb i dont like. They "overmodded" it to much.
    Regards!

    Leave a comment:


  • amtech2005
    replied
    RELIC HAWK

    GEO , GREAT !!!!!!!! LOOKS LIKE THE POWER SUPPLY WILL USE ONE BOARD BY ITSELF. HOPEFULLY NOT ANY NOISE PROBLEMS BY STACKING BOARDS TOO CLOSE TOGETHER. I HAD TO BUY A PRINTER-SCANNER TODAY TO COPY SCHEMATICS. I CAN SEE BETTER ON PAPER WITH MY GLASSES,THAN TRYING TO SEE FROM COMPUTER. HAVE A GREAT SUNDAY....................EUGENE

    Leave a comment:


  • Geo
    replied
    Hi Eugene.
    For me it is a large schematic so we need a big pcb (for through hole components).
    I study a little the schematic and i saw that it is better to make 2 pcbs as sandwich.
    So i will start slowly-slowly to design the first pcb....
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • amtech2005
    replied
    RELIC HAWK

    TIKTAK,WHAT SCHEMATIC AND PART'S LAYOUT SOFTWARE DO YOU USE ??? THANK'S................EUGENE

    Leave a comment:

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