Surf PI Pro

[sdesic]

I have made PCB designed by ApBerg and it was not working ... no sound at all
Changed NE555 to TS555 still same.
Only if I touch IRF9640 I get some sound in headphones ..
I get huming sound when I touch volume pot - connected to darlington transistor
or when I touch both IRF and that pot pin I get sound like I shoul'd have if found metal
from youtube test videos...

R2 trim pot is now 3.3k resistor

Voltages
TS555 pin 4 and 8 is 12.10V
IRF9640 S leg has 12.1V
7660 has -4.36V on pin 5
7660 has 5V on pin 7 (and 8 ?)
4093 has 5V on pins 1, 9, 12, 5, 14
4093 has -4,35V on pin 7
4066 has 5V on pin 14
4066 has -4,35V on pin 6, 8, 9 unused part
4066 has -4,35V on pin 7
358 has 5V on pin 8
358 has -4.35V on pin 4

I am using 0,4 mm enamelled copper wire 23 turns - 22 cm diameter 2.8 Ohm at PCB and 2.3 Ohm at coil
Don't have inductometer...
Don't have oscilloscope... yet

[sdesic]

Where are oscilloscope test points for this MD (Surf Pi Pro) ?
One is coil ...

on schematics there is :
PIN 14 and 7 of IC4 4093
PIN 8 and 4 of IC3 358
PIN 14 and pin 7 of IC7 4066
those are test point for voltages

[sdesic]

SURF XX part list (update):
C1 22 nF
C10 1 nF
C11 1 nF
C12 1 nF
C13 220 uF
C14 220 uF
C15 220 uF
C16 100 nF
C19 100pF
C2 1000 uF
C20 100 nF
C3 100 nF
C4 100 nF
C5 220 nF
C6 220 nF
C7 1 uF
C8 47 nF
C9 1 nF
D1 1N4148
D2 1N4148
D3 1N4148
D4 1N5819
D6 1N4001
IC1 TLC555
IC2 NE5534
IC3 LM358
IC4 CD4093
IC5 78L05
IC6 ICL7660
IC7 CD4066
P 10k Potentiometer
P1 100k Pot. gain
P5 10k Pot. delay
R1 100k
R10 100k Pot. offset
R11 22k
R12 10k
R13 1k
R14 1k
R15 470k
R16 470k
R17 10 k
R18 47k
R2 5k (trimmer) set at 3.3k
R20 47k
R21 1k
R21 1k
R22 220k
R23 22k
R25 5k1
R26 51 k
R28 240k
R29 51k
R3 3k3
R33 1k Pot. volume
R34 150 Ohm
R35 100k
R36 12 Ohm 1 W
R4 2k2
R5 1k5
R6 390 Ohm 2W
R7 1k
R8 1k
R9 1M Ohm
T1 Q1 2N3906
T2 Q2 IRF9640
T6 Q6 MPSA13

[paku]

Hello all i make new board Surf Master PCB is that part list is same on surf PI part or not
What is defference board.. Surf Master, Surf PI Pro, Oxygen,

i get surf pi part from

http://www.silverdog.co.uk/shop/image/data/partslist.txt

[paku]

ok i will find that tomorrow

[ApBerg]

Connect the red wire from the meter to the + connection from the battery = i got 06.4
Connect the black wire from the meter to the + batt connection from the pcb = i got 06.6
ect the -lead from the battery to the - connection from the pcb = i got 0.7.4

Take a 8x1.2volt accu pack (or 8x1.5volt batt) and then follow post no.280

[paku]

Connect the red wire from the meter to the + connection from the battery = i got 06.4
Connect the black wire from the meter to the + batt connection from the pcb = i got 06.6
ect the -lead from the battery to the - connection from the pcb = i got 0.7.4

[ApBerg]

You will make it , I am sure !

But you need a better battery,.... ( 8 x1.2V accu) or there is a problem at the board.
Put your meter to dc amps 200mA
Connect the red wire from the meter to the + connection from the battery
Connect the black wire from the meter to the + batt connection from the pcb
Connect the -lead from the battery to the - connection from the pcb
Now the meter is in serie's with the pcb board so the current in meter will be the same as in the pcb board

This way you read on the meter how much current the PCB take's. If ok it must be without audio around 50-60 mA (depends on the coil you have connected) and with audio on some 80-100mA (depends on the speaker you use)

Check this!

as my Englisch is not the best...if someone can give a better instruction...

[paku]

These results are
i take out speaker and coil



These results are
i take out speaker and coil

[paku]

i use Laserjet Printer Toner And photo Glosy Paper and iron fabric to pcb

[ApBerg]

put your multy meter in the 20 volt range always select the range that gives the best info... so close to what you think it has to be

[ApBerg]

ok will start check now thanks

Hello Paku,

Looking at the copperside from your pcb it looks like that it s made by a CNC machine ? can you tell how it is made ?

Regards.


Ap

[paku]

Hello Pacu,

If you have a multymeter connect the com (= ground = black wire) at the - batt from the pcb ( is ground/green tracks on color-bmp pcb)

The red-meter wire you use to see what volts you have on your PCB.

For this use the Color drawing that is in replay no. 243
Orance/brown is the batt. volts , (must be more then 9 volts if not you batt.s are to low)

red tracks must be +5 volt if not then there is a problem with the 78l05 regulator
blue tracks around -4 volt if not there is a problem with the icl7660

Check this first ! also check how much current the board takes .. 35-40mA no coil no audio

Succes...at the end it will work

The Test Is Look like This or wrong
I don't know how to use multimeter
I just want to learn about electronics
so Im still take time to understand about electronic

[ApBerg]

There is no problem with that parts, many parts can be replaced by others..but always check the data sheets/info you can find on WWW.
Newer IC have mostly beter specs or take less current so can be give better results.
The cap from 220uF-470uF is not a problem... if you leave it out the detector will also work.

Best regards.

Ap

[ApBerg]

Hello Pacu,

If you have a multymeter connect the com (= ground = black wire) at the - batt from the pcb ( is ground/green tracks on color-bmp pcb)

The red-meter wire you use to see what volts you have on your PCB.

For this use the Color drawing that is in replay no. 243
Orance/brown is the batt. volts , (must be more then 9 volts if not you batt.s are to low)

red tracks must be +5 volt if not then there is a problem with the 78l05 regulator
blue tracks around -4 volt if not there is a problem with the icl7660

Check this first ! also check how much current the board takes .. 35-40mA no coil no audio

Succes...at the end it will work