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  • lunamay
    replied
    hi guys

    can anybody help me and draw a connectings of pots and switch? i would be very hapy...best regards to all

    Leave a comment:


  • ApBerg
    replied
    Hello Robert,

    Thanks for the info ! (bedank voor de info !)

    Ap

    Leave a comment:


  • Cyclonite
    replied
    You are welcome @simonbaker!

    Build a Universal Coil Winding Machine - By David J. Gingery (1991)



    * Author: David J. Gingery
    * Publisher: David J Gingery Publishing
    * Publication Date: 1991
    * Number of Pages: 25
    * ISBN-10: 187808710X
    * ISBN-13: 978-1878087102
    * Product Dimensions: 10.8 x 8.5 x 0.2 inches
    * Language: English
    * Size: 788 KB
    * Format: PDF (OCRed)

    Description:

    Dave will show you how to build a coil winder like those available in electronics catalogs years ago from common, easily-obtained materials. Although it may look complex, it really is not. You'll find that it is easy to build. You don't need to be a mechanical genius, or need expensive tools. Yet this amazing little machine will professionally wind universal and honeycomb coils, single layer and multilayer solenoids, close-wound and space wound coils, and even pi-spaced coils such as used for RF chokes and transformers. This is a typical Gingery how-to book – loaded with illustrations, dimensions, and step-by-step text that is so detailed it almost holds your hand!

    Download (RARed 673 KB):

    Build a Universal Coil Winding Machine - By David J. Gingery (David J. Gingery Publishing - 1991) 26s.pdf

    as

    Coil Winding Machine - Gingery (1991).rar

    iFile.it Download Link:


    or (optional)

    MegaUpload Download Link:


    No Password Required !

    Enjoy!

    Robert

    Leave a comment:


  • simonbaker
    replied
    Originally posted by Cyclonite View Post
    Attachment:

    Additional Articles - Part 2 of 2:

    Winding a Toroid Transformer.pdf
    Mounting Toroidal Inductors with Common Materials.rar
    The Coilmaster - By MoReCo (MOrris REgister COmpany).rar

    Enjoy!

    Robert
    Thank you Cyclonite for the wealth of information!

    -SB

    Leave a comment:


  • Cyclonite
    replied
    Attachment:

    Additional Articles - Part 2 of 2:

    Winding a Toroid Transformer.pdf
    Mounting Toroidal Inductors with Common Materials.rar
    The Coilmaster - By MoReCo (MOrris REgister COmpany).rar


    Enjoy!

    Robert
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • Cyclonite
    replied
    Here you have an eBook; Coil Winding - By Geo. Stevens Manufacturing Co., Inc. (1954) (Split up into 7 RAR-Part Files) together with Additional Articles concerning Compounds that may be used to make your own Coils, and how to apply them.

    Attachment:

    Coil Winding - By Geo. Stevens Manufacturing Co., Inc. (1954) 137s.pdf

    as

    Coil Winding - By Geo. Stevens Manufacturing Co., Inc. (1954) 137s.part1
    Coil Winding - By Geo. Stevens Manufacturing Co., Inc. (1954) 137s.part2
    Coil Winding - By Geo. Stevens Manufacturing Co., Inc. (1954) 137s.part3
    Coil Winding - By Geo. Stevens Manufacturing Co., Inc. (1954) 137s.part4
    Coil Winding - By Geo. Stevens Manufacturing Co., Inc. (1954) 137s.part5
    Coil Winding - By Geo. Stevens Manufacturing Co., Inc. (1954) 137s.part6
    Coil Winding - By Geo. Stevens Manufacturing Co., Inc. (1954) 137s.part7


    Additional Articles - Part 1 of 2:

    Coil Retaining Compounds.rar
    Induction Coil Making for Amateurs.rar

    Enjoy!

    Robert

    Coil Winding - By Geo. Stevens Manufacturing Co., Inc. (1954)
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • dfbowers
    replied
    Originally posted by simonbaker View Post
    How do you use the dry lubricant? Spray on before winding?

    -SB
    I just spray the surfaces of the coil winder before winding. It goes on as white dry powder. Another thing that I have tried is coating the inside with beeswax. That seems to work OK too.
    Don

    Leave a comment:


  • lunamay
    replied
    hi to all
    i have a little problem. could someone post how to connect pots and switch to latest tgsl?

    best regards to all

    Leave a comment:


  • Cyclonite
    replied
    Make your own Coil Housing and Control Box by Vacuum Forming Plastics, ... you can do it, ... read how it is done !

    Originally posted by Cyclonite View Post
    Do It Yourself Vacuum Forming for the Hobbyist - By Douglas E. Walsh (1990)
    Enjoy !

    Robert

    Leave a comment:


  • simonbaker
    replied
    Originally posted by dfbowers View Post
    I have an old can of "Release Agent Dry Lubricant" (MS-122) but just ran out . So far, the coils have not stuck at all. It dries into a white powder. You might be able to infuse the wires like Robert is suggesting. (haven't tried it yet). The Capillary action should move along the wires behind the pegs.

    Don
    How do you use the dry lubricant? Spray on before winding?

    -SB

    Leave a comment:


  • gurdal
    replied
    http://www.vidyotup.com/video/123673/bobin-sarım

    Leave a comment:


  • Cyclonite
    replied
    One more remark about Cyanoacrylate Glue (Brand Names: Super Glue, Crazy Glue, Loctite or Insta-Bond).

    Before you use this Glue, it's best to first apply it to a piece of bare Enameled Copper Wire, and then to scrape the Enameled layer to see if it has been dissolved, or attacked in any way. But if you are going to apply Varnish, then it's maybe best to dilute it first with a little Turpentine to make it more "watery". The coil wires will then absorb it easier. It does not matter if you use too much Turpentine, for you only want the coil to stay together for removal when dry, and it will penetrate nice and deep when the varnish is very diluted. Solvents like Turpentine, Petroleum, Kerosene, Petrol (gasoline), Zippo lighter fluid (Nafta: saturated Hydrocarbons of 5-10 Carbon Atom Molecules, and in Dutch it's called Wasbenzine), and various Alcohols will probably not attack the Copper Wires Enamel layer. It's best to first test all solvents before use, by leaving a piece of Enameled Copper Wire immersed in it for some time (or even over night). Then scrape the Enameled layer to see if it has softened, or maybe it has even dissolved. It's better to play safe, than to be sorry afterwards.

    Regards,

    Robert

    Leave a comment:


  • gurdal
    replied
    very nice work

    Leave a comment:


  • dfbowers
    replied
    Originally posted by simonbaker View Post
    Beautiful work...

    How do you keep the varnish from building up on the form and also making the coil difficult to remove from the form?

    Regards,

    -SB
    I have an old can of "Release Agent Dry Lubricant" (MS-122) but just ran out . So far, the coils have not stuck at all. It dries into a white powder. You might be able to infuse the wires like Robert is suggesting. (haven't tried it yet). The Capillary action should move along the wires behind the pegs.

    Don

    Leave a comment:


  • Cyclonite
    replied
    Originally posted by simonbaker View Post
    Beautiful work...

    How do you keep the varnish from building up on the form and also making the coil difficult to remove from the form?

    Regards,

    -SB
    In between the Pegs, a drop of Cyanoacrylate Glue (Brand Names: Super Glue, Crazy Glue, Loctite or Insta-Bond) may be used. The capillary action will spread the Glue threw out the windings, so sparingly (very little Glue) apply it to multiple places on the Coil for proper fixation. Then let the Glue cure, and only then remove the Coil from the Mall (or jig).

    Note: Capillary action is a physical effect caused by the interactions of a liquid with the walls of a thin tube. The capillary effect is a function of the ability of the liquid to wet a particular material.
    If you use too much Glue, then the Pegs will also be reached and stuck to the Enameled Copper Wire, so only apply sparingly. Glue that may have adhered to the fingers etc., may be removed by the use of Acetone.

    Caution: Acetone Vapor in Air is Flammable and Explosive, so no ignition source may be present, smoking etc..
    But be careful when using Acetone and Enameled Copper Wire, for the Enameled Coating may dissolve (read: will dissolve). Cyanoacrylate Glue is a Glue that hardens by the action of Moisture, and is NOT Air dried in the normal sense (moisture in the air cures it).

    Caution: Cyanoacrylate Glue that gets into the Eye(s), will destroy the Cornea !!!
    Wants the Coil has been removed from the Mall, then Varnish may be applied. But it must still be flexible, for you will still need to Nullify the Coils.

    I hope this helps.

    Regards,

    Robert

    Leave a comment:

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