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  • nelson
    replied
    Hi Ivconic, Max and all good friends here.

    Well my TGS box is not the best, because i need to complete it. Text on front panel was wrote with a permanent pencil, so i need to do a good job on this. I ll also have to seal the box, to don´t let humidity get in. But this are minor things to do.
    By now i´m concentrating on coils and TGS functions ( thanks Ivconic and Max for such good information). The circuit is workink ok and componets replacement posted here are ok too. I just replace LM308 and made some fix on 4.7 pF caps, has Ivconic do.(Thanks Ivconic).

    I´m at my work now, so test will be performed today i hope in the evening. Coils will be fixed this weekend or before that if i can.

    Thanks again i will keep in touch for more information about this nice detector.

    Regards

    Nelson



    Originally posted by ivconic View Post
    "Notch" function is very easy to understand if we imagine this as chart, see bellow;
    "Notch" can start from least point of Disc but not less. Also can end at end of scale.
    On TGS you can also adjust Notch Width, as position also.
    No wonder if you can not hear tone. Pay attention on what level you adjusted Disc, than
    "move" Notch down to that level and try to detect material which suits expectations.
    If detected than rise Notch a bit (in Reject mode) and than should not be any tone.
    Same you can try in Accept mode, although this time you should hear tone.
    Notch function helps you to distinguish much precisely type of metal detected in Disc
    mode range. Logically you can not set Notch lower than Disc. Pay attention on that!

    I ejected Notch part from TGS just cose it is not necessairly, also due smaller pcb,
    less pots, wires,switches....Much easier to find housing and pack it....
    Of course it can be very usefull finction...but i do not need it. Whenever it beeps in
    Disc mode, i dig....



    Bravo Nelson! Very nice!

    Leave a comment:


  • ivconic
    replied
    Notch!

    "Notch" function is very easy to understand if we imagine this as chart, see bellow;
    "Notch" can start from least point of Disc but not less. Also can end at end of scale.
    On TGS you can also adjust Notch Width, as position also.
    No wonder if you can not hear tone. Pay attention on what level you adjusted Disc, than
    "move" Notch down to that level and try to detect material which suits expectations.
    If detected than rise Notch a bit (in Reject mode) and than should not be any tone.
    Same you can try in Accept mode, although this time you should hear tone.
    Notch function helps you to distinguish much precisely type of metal detected in Disc
    mode range. Logically you can not set Notch lower than Disc. Pay attention on that!

    I ejected Notch part from TGS just cose it is not necessairly, also due smaller pcb,
    less pots, wires,switches....Much easier to find housing and pack it....
    Of course it can be very usefull finction...but i do not need it. Whenever it beeps in
    Disc mode, i dig....



    Bravo Nelson! Very nice!
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • Max
    replied
    Originally posted by nelson View Post
    Hi Max and thanks for your information.
    Here are my comments:

    All was clear and now i have to wait until next weekend, to de some more tests.

    About reject function, i can´t make it work. Has i understood, disc function is activated with no problems with disc switch. Also pot for disc is working ok, but reject still don´t understand how to make it work. When i turn it on and disc is on too, no sound and no detection is comming.

    About ground balance, this procedure is making only one time, or on diferents soils must be adjusted again. If so, is posible to put and external pot to do this from the front panel, every time you need to adjust GB on diferent soils?

    When i get new results on my coils i ll post them here.
    Thanks and best regards.

    Nelson

    Santiago, CHILE

    "1.- IS POSSIBLE TO BUILD THE COIL WITHOUT TIGHTENING TO MUCH, SO I CAN PLAY WITH CORRECT INDUCTANCE."

    Yes, why not. You could do some change to inductance tightening it after wound... yes, using a cord and then shield to get right value...
    only thing I'll be aware are unwanted variations of inductance due to movements e.g. when you move the coil... or hit stones on the search field.

    I think you can do that way for test bench tests, without problems... but think that you need tight wound on real coil... and also seal/fix it with some epoxy too when right nulled, as I've done on mine.

    "
    2.- MAX, I HAVE TRIED TO FIND A GOOD OWNERS MANUAL FOR THIS GOLDEN SABRE. I STILL CAN GET THE PICTURE FOR THE USE OF REJECT AND NOTCH FUNCTIONS ON GOLDEN SABRE. ALSO, DON´T KNOW WHAT ARE FOR POTS THE TWO POTS ON THE BOARD. I ONLY KNOW THAT ONE OF THEM, HAVE SOME INFLUENCE ON THE KIND AND SHAPE OF METAL DETECTED...ANY COMMENTS ABOUT THIS."

    I haven't the owner manual of GS but reject mean disc, using it you can reject stuff (iron, nickel etc) and keep in wanted (copper, silver etc) so it's a disc control. Notch I know is a function that give you the freedom of setting a wanted interval of phase (so rotate the "acceptance window") in which you want accept (detect) objects... so you can tune e.g. for silver... and get (ideally) just silver signals.
    Great importance has gnd balance (in any vlf detector)... you must balance pumping searchcoil up and down at say 10cm from ground... up to 30cm... when your detector is right balanced you don't get any increase or decrease in audio tone - do it in all-metal mode, start with gnd balance (geb) pot at middle... adjust audio tone to be just audible... then you have to test and reglulate one way or another to get that no-influence point where you move up and down the coil over ground, without audio variations.
    Another (good) method is using a ferrite round core... you need adjust geb control to get absolutely no signal moving e.g. at 5-8 cm from center of coil.
    This last is indicated exp. for test bench tryout.

    Sens is just gain... keep it higher till you ear cracking sound... then lower just to make cracking disappear.

    All this require a bit of practice... but it's really easy when you understand and practice for few hours in the field.

    Best regards,
    Max
    [/quote]

    Hi Nelson,
    nice housing ! I like it!

    "When i turn it on and disc is on too, no sound and no detection is comming."

    Strange, battery check must be performed in disc mode... you would hear the batt. checker tone for 3-4 seconds and then nothing else, no sound.
    Remember that is motion detector that way and you need to move objects in front of coil (or coil respect object) to get detection of it in motion detector.
    If you move object and get no sound maybe is due to reject control... try with diff objects at 3-5cm from coil: you must get some detection.

    "
    About ground balance, this procedure is making only one time, or on diferents soils must be adjusted again. If so, is posible to put and external pot to do this from the front panel, every time you need to adjust GB on diferent soils?
    "
    Yes, on original project was a trimpot that you set one time on test field or using ferrite... then leave always that way.
    My idea is that if you work on different kind of soils you'll want a panel pot instead, to make small adjustements on every field to get maximum performance and stability.
    Anyway, you could leave the PCB trimpot, as Ivconic suggested, cause GSabre is a very tollerant machine... and you wouldn't get out of tune in geb section if you go hunting in "easy" or "normal" soils... (no black sand, not too iron oxides...).
    I suggest you use first trimpot... and try on different 3 or 4 fields... just tune it on 1st field... then if you notice that somewhere else you got falsing due to geb you could change trimpot with a panel pot to make life easy.

    Best regards,
    Max

    Leave a comment:


  • Unregistered
    Guest replied
    Hi,
    nelson nice to here that you have reached good point!
    Hope soon be ready to post my results.

    Leave a comment:


  • detectoman
    replied
    hola nelson
    yo dire como dice geo buen trabajo nelson
    y dire como dicen por aca, ta" chido!
    i say how geo very good work
    and i said in my city., is chide!
    this presentation in trasparent, is very fantastic, how voman in little dress
    look how see this!
    hhahahahahaah
    in mex, jajajajajaa

    un abrazo campeon!'
    detectoman

    Leave a comment:


  • nelson
    replied
    Here i m sending my golden sabre detector that is housing on a plactic electric box and the front panel is transparent, so you can see the circuit inside of it.
    Best regards

    Nelson


    Originally posted by nelson View Post
    Hi Max and thanks for your information.
    Here are my comments:

    All was clear and now i have to wait until next weekend, to de some more tests.

    About reject function, i can´t make it work. Has i understood, disc function is activated with no problems with disc switch. Also pot for disc is working ok, but reject still don´t understand how to make it work. When i turn it on and disc is on too, no sound and no detection is comming.

    About ground balance, this procedure is making only one time, or on diferents soils must be adjusted again. If so, is posible to put and external pot to do this from the front panel, every time you need to adjust GB on diferent soils?

    When i get new results on my coils i ll post them here.
    Thanks and best regards.

    Nelson

    Santiago, CHILE

    "1.- IS POSSIBLE TO BUILD THE COIL WITHOUT TIGHTENING TO MUCH, SO I CAN PLAY WITH CORRECT INDUCTANCE."

    Yes, why not. You could do some change to inductance tightening it after wound... yes, using a cord and then shield to get right value...
    only thing I'll be aware are unwanted variations of inductance due to movements e.g. when you move the coil... or hit stones on the search field.

    I think you can do that way for test bench tests, without problems... but think that you need tight wound on real coil... and also seal/fix it with some epoxy too when right nulled, as I've done on mine.

    "
    2.- MAX, I HAVE TRIED TO FIND A GOOD OWNERS MANUAL FOR THIS GOLDEN SABRE. I STILL CAN GET THE PICTURE FOR THE USE OF REJECT AND NOTCH FUNCTIONS ON GOLDEN SABRE. ALSO, DON´T KNOW WHAT ARE FOR POTS THE TWO POTS ON THE BOARD. I ONLY KNOW THAT ONE OF THEM, HAVE SOME INFLUENCE ON THE KIND AND SHAPE OF METAL DETECTED...ANY COMMENTS ABOUT THIS."

    I haven't the owner manual of GS but reject mean disc, using it you can reject stuff (iron, nickel etc) and keep in wanted (copper, silver etc) so it's a disc control. Notch I know is a function that give you the freedom of setting a wanted interval of phase (so rotate the "acceptance window") in which you want accept (detect) objects... so you can tune e.g. for silver... and get (ideally) just silver signals.
    Great importance has gnd balance (in any vlf detector)... you must balance pumping searchcoil up and down at say 10cm from ground... up to 30cm... when your detector is right balanced you don't get any increase or decrease in audio tone - do it in all-metal mode, start with gnd balance (geb) pot at middle... adjust audio tone to be just audible... then you have to test and reglulate one way or another to get that no-influence point where you move up and down the coil over ground, without audio variations.
    Another (good) method is using a ferrite round core... you need adjust geb control to get absolutely no signal moving e.g. at 5-8 cm from center of coil.
    This last is indicated exp. for test bench tryout.

    Sens is just gain... keep it higher till you ear cracking sound... then lower just to make cracking disappear.

    All this require a bit of practice... but it's really easy when you understand and practice for few hours in the field.

    Best regards,
    Max
    [/QUOTE]
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • nelson
    replied
    Hi Max and thanks for your information.
    Here are my comments:

    All was clear and now i have to wait until next weekend, to de some more tests.

    About reject function, i can´t make it work. Has i understood, disc function is activated with no problems with disc switch. Also pot for disc is working ok, but reject still don´t understand how to make it work. When i turn it on and disc is on too, no sound and no detection is comming.

    About ground balance, this procedure is making only one time, or on diferents soils must be adjusted again. If so, is posible to put and external pot to do this from the front panel, every time you need to adjust GB on diferent soils?

    When i get new results on my coils i ll post them here.
    Thanks and best regards.

    Nelson

    Santiago, CHILE

    "1.- IS POSSIBLE TO BUILD THE COIL WITHOUT TIGHTENING TO MUCH, SO I CAN PLAY WITH CORRECT INDUCTANCE."

    Yes, why not. You could do some change to inductance tightening it after wound... yes, using a cord and then shield to get right value...
    only thing I'll be aware are unwanted variations of inductance due to movements e.g. when you move the coil... or hit stones on the search field.

    I think you can do that way for test bench tests, without problems... but think that you need tight wound on real coil... and also seal/fix it with some epoxy too when right nulled, as I've done on mine.

    "
    2.- MAX, I HAVE TRIED TO FIND A GOOD OWNERS MANUAL FOR THIS GOLDEN SABRE. I STILL CAN GET THE PICTURE FOR THE USE OF REJECT AND NOTCH FUNCTIONS ON GOLDEN SABRE. ALSO, DON´T KNOW WHAT ARE FOR POTS THE TWO POTS ON THE BOARD. I ONLY KNOW THAT ONE OF THEM, HAVE SOME INFLUENCE ON THE KIND AND SHAPE OF METAL DETECTED...ANY COMMENTS ABOUT THIS."

    I haven't the owner manual of GS but reject mean disc, using it you can reject stuff (iron, nickel etc) and keep in wanted (copper, silver etc) so it's a disc control. Notch I know is a function that give you the freedom of setting a wanted interval of phase (so rotate the "acceptance window") in which you want accept (detect) objects... so you can tune e.g. for silver... and get (ideally) just silver signals.
    Great importance has gnd balance (in any vlf detector)... you must balance pumping searchcoil up and down at say 10cm from ground... up to 30cm... when your detector is right balanced you don't get any increase or decrease in audio tone - do it in all-metal mode, start with gnd balance (geb) pot at middle... adjust audio tone to be just audible... then you have to test and reglulate one way or another to get that no-influence point where you move up and down the coil over ground, without audio variations.
    Another (good) method is using a ferrite round core... you need adjust geb control to get absolutely no signal moving e.g. at 5-8 cm from center of coil.
    This last is indicated exp. for test bench tryout.

    Sens is just gain... keep it higher till you ear cracking sound... then lower just to make cracking disappear.

    All this require a bit of practice... but it's really easy when you understand and practice for few hours in the field.

    Best regards,
    Max[/QUOTE]

    Leave a comment:


  • Max
    replied
    Originally posted by nelson View Post
    Hi Max and thanks for fast reply.


    "** I tested the coils and after i found the nulling point i got 22 cms for a 14 mm coin on air"

    good result, but I think you could tune it better...
    What about coin , wich metal it is ? Alloy ?

    AL COIN

    ON A WEDDING GOLD RING, 22 CMS I DIAMETER, I GOT MUCH DEEP (24 CMS)

    Some little tricks are related to shield. Have you tested coils without it ?

    NO, I HAVEN´T

    If so, what's detection range for same coin ?

    I LL TRY IT

    It's kitchen al roll or something else (I've noticed that aluminium/mylar is better , due to less metal content, but hard to find)?

    YES, IT´S KITCHEN AL ROLL

    Other issue is the overlapping zone shape and wideness. What about ? Parallel overlapping or oval ? How many millimeters between two windings at center ?

    I USED OVAL OVERLAPPING AND SHAPE IT´S THE SAME HAS IVCONIC
    FROM CENTER TO CENTER OVERLAPPING IT´S ABOUT 20 TO 30 MM

    When you nulled what's the peak-to-peak voltage at RX (dumped)?

    I HAVEN´T MEASURE IT, I JUST PLACE THE TWO COILS OVERLAPPING AND TESTED TO THE BEST DEEP I FOUND. ( I FOLLOW IVCONIC METHOD). THIS WAY IS VERY EASY TO DO TO REACH THE BEST POINT.

    NOW A FEW QUESTIONS MAX:

    1.- IS POSSIBLE TO BUILD THE COIL WITHOUT TIGHTENING TO MUCH, SO I CAN PLAY WITH CORRECT INDUCTANCE. IVCONIC POST THAT 141 TURNS FOR TX AND 151 TURNS FOR RX COIL, FOR A 22 CMS COIL. I USED THE SAME SHAPE AND DIAMETER FOR IT, BUT I HAD DIFERENT NUMBERS OF TURNS TO REACH THE CORRECT INDUCTANCE VALUES. I CONFESS THAT MY COILS ARE TO TIGHTENED. ALSO, CAN I JUST USE A CORD AND THE AL SHIEL TO GET IT WORKING. THIS BECAUSE WHEN I PUT THE ELECTRIC TAPE, MY VALUES GOES OFF FROM THE VALES NEEDED.

    2.- MAX, I HAVE TRIED TO FIND A GOOD OWNERS MANUAL FOR THIS GOLDEN SABRE. I STILL CAN GET THE PICTURE FOR THE USE OF REJECT AND NOTCH FUNCTIONS ON GOLDEN SABRE. ALSO, DON´T KNOW WHAT ARE FOR POTS THE TWO POTS ON THE BOARD. I ONLY KNOW THAT ONE OF THEM, HAVE SOME INFLUENCE ON THE KIND AND SHAPE OF METAL DETECTED...ANY COMMENTS ABOUT THIS.

    THANKS AGAIN FOR HELP ME AND THE REST OF GOOD PEOPLE HERE.

    BEST REGARDS

    NELSON

    I think that with good tuning you could gain some cms.

    Best regards,
    Max
    [/quote]

    Hi,
    "1.- IS POSSIBLE TO BUILD THE COIL WITHOUT TIGHTENING TO MUCH, SO I CAN PLAY WITH CORRECT INDUCTANCE."

    Yes, why not. You could do some change to inductance tightening it after wound... yes, using a cord and then shield to get right value...
    only thing I'll be aware are unwanted variations of inductance due to movements e.g. when you move the coil... or hit stones on the search field.

    I think you can do that way for test bench tests, without problems... but think that you need tight wound on real coil... and also seal/fix it with some epoxy too when right nulled, as I've done on mine.

    "
    2.- MAX, I HAVE TRIED TO FIND A GOOD OWNERS MANUAL FOR THIS GOLDEN SABRE. I STILL CAN GET THE PICTURE FOR THE USE OF REJECT AND NOTCH FUNCTIONS ON GOLDEN SABRE. ALSO, DON´T KNOW WHAT ARE FOR POTS THE TWO POTS ON THE BOARD. I ONLY KNOW THAT ONE OF THEM, HAVE SOME INFLUENCE ON THE KIND AND SHAPE OF METAL DETECTED...ANY COMMENTS ABOUT THIS."

    I haven't the owner manual of GS but reject mean disc, using it you can reject stuff (iron, nickel etc) and keep in wanted (copper, silver etc) so it's a disc control. Notch I know is a function that give you the freedom of setting a wanted interval of phase (so rotate the "acceptance window") in which you want accept (detect) objects... so you can tune e.g. for silver... and get (ideally) just silver signals.
    Great importance has gnd balance (in any vlf detector)... you must balance pumping searchcoil up and down at say 10cm from ground... up to 30cm... when your detector is right balanced you don't get any increase or decrease in audio tone - do it in all-metal mode, start with gnd balance (geb) pot at middle... adjust audio tone to be just audible... then you have to test and reglulate one way or another to get that no-influence point where you move up and down the coil over ground, without audio variations.
    Another (good) method is using a ferrite round core... you need adjust geb control to get absolutely no signal moving e.g. at 5-8 cm from center of coil.
    This last is indicated exp. for test bench tryout.

    Sens is just gain... keep it higher till you ear cracking sound... then lower just to make cracking disappear.

    All this require a bit of practice... but it's really easy when you understand and practice for few hours in the field.

    Best regards,
    Max

    Leave a comment:


  • nelson
    replied
    Hi Max and thanks for fast reply.


    "** I tested the coils and after i found the nulling point i got 22 cms for a 14 mm coin on air"

    good result, but I think you could tune it better...
    What about coin , wich metal it is ? Alloy ?

    AL COIN

    ON A WEDDING GOLD RING, 22 CMS I DIAMETER, I GOT MUCH DEEP (24 CMS)

    Some little tricks are related to shield. Have you tested coils without it ?

    NO, I HAVEN´T

    If so, what's detection range for same coin ?

    I LL TRY IT

    It's kitchen al roll or something else (I've noticed that aluminium/mylar is better , due to less metal content, but hard to find)?

    YES, IT´S KITCHEN AL ROLL

    Other issue is the overlapping zone shape and wideness. What about ? Parallel overlapping or oval ? How many millimeters between two windings at center ?

    I USED OVAL OVERLAPPING AND SHAPE IT´S THE SAME HAS IVCONIC
    FROM CENTER TO CENTER OVERLAPPING IT´S ABOUT 20 TO 30 MM

    When you nulled what's the peak-to-peak voltage at RX (dumped)?

    I HAVEN´T MEASURE IT, I JUST PLACE THE TWO COILS OVERLAPPING AND TESTED TO THE BEST DEEP I FOUND. ( I FOLLOW IVCONIC METHOD). THIS WAY IS VERY EASY TO DO TO REACH THE BEST POINT.

    NOW A FEW QUESTIONS MAX:

    1.- IS POSSIBLE TO BUILD THE COIL WITHOUT TIGHTENING TO MUCH, SO I CAN PLAY WITH CORRECT INDUCTANCE. IVCONIC POST THAT 141 TURNS FOR TX AND 151 TURNS FOR RX COIL, FOR A 22 CMS COIL. I USED THE SAME SHAPE AND DIAMETER FOR IT, BUT I HAD DIFERENT NUMBERS OF TURNS TO REACH THE CORRECT INDUCTANCE VALUES. I CONFESS THAT MY COILS ARE TO TIGHTENED. ALSO, CAN I JUST USE A CORD AND THE AL SHIEL TO GET IT WORKING. THIS BECAUSE WHEN I PUT THE ELECTRIC TAPE, MY VALUES GOES OFF FROM THE VALES NEEDED.

    2.- MAX, I HAVE TRIED TO FIND A GOOD OWNERS MANUAL FOR THIS GOLDEN SABRE. I STILL CAN GET THE PICTURE FOR THE USE OF REJECT AND NOTCH FUNCTIONS ON GOLDEN SABRE. ALSO, DON´T KNOW WHAT ARE FOR POTS THE TWO POTS ON THE BOARD. I ONLY KNOW THAT ONE OF THEM, HAVE SOME INFLUENCE ON THE KIND AND SHAPE OF METAL DETECTED...ANY COMMENTS ABOUT THIS.

    THANKS AGAIN FOR HELP ME AND THE REST OF GOOD PEOPLE HERE.

    BEST REGARDS

    NELSON

    I think that with good tuning you could gain some cms.

    Best regards,
    Max[/QUOTE]

    Leave a comment:


  • Max
    replied
    Originally posted by ivconic View Post

    Hi,
    just back to short break. It is hot here, 43 degrees!
    Hard conditions to stay outdoor for longer period..
    Anyway, i have few more notices for you people;
    First, i made several coils for TGS, all of them are DD.
    I usually used old proven method, like so many times
    described here.No need to repeat again.
    But let's back to good old Minelab coils; those are
    working very good!
    Have you ever took a good,steady look on those shapes?
    Minelab DD coils are all simillar,but much more different
    than any hand-made i ever seen....
    Angle of overlaping is less than at usuall hand-made?
    So i tried to "copy" that shape and see what's going on.
    Finally made a bit larger DD coil with 28cm diammeter.
    Of course i used 0.25mm (0.28mm with varnish) wire for both
    coils...
    Results are much better than expected. 1cm nickel coin at
    40cm in the air and 33cm in the ground!!!
    Discrimination - PERFECT! Stabillity - PERFECT! Neither one
    false signal, no matter if i swing coil,cable...or simillar
    "torture" due testing stabillity...
    But i tried to respect Minelab "shape" and overlap coils tight
    and close, without rising distance between overlaping parts.
    Also noticed, this way is much easier later to null coils.
    Usually it takes 10-15 minutes to null coil with a lot of
    efforts, now; it takes me few seconds to find best "spot" to
    null those!!!?
    Except benefits, i havent noticed any drawback of doing this way.
    Performances are much better now.
    Minelab...ehm! If you can not beat them, than learn from them!
    No need for further explanations,just look at picture.
    I am not sure why this coil is working better and why it is much
    easy to balance it....i can make assumptions here..but must be
    some of you more conversant to explain, better than me?
    Another tip; detector housing...! Ts,ts,ts...i had so many
    problems in the past to find proper housing for my detectors.
    Now, it's a piece of cake!
    Remember good old Hercules monitor for pc XT and later 286/386..???
    Back side,lid made of plastic,part which covers tubular end of screen!?
    Simply use small,precise saw and cut nicely that part of plastic and you have
    very nice housing for detector! Look on the picture...
    Front panel cut from another piece of plastic....and that is all!
    Very best regards!
    Hi ivconic,
    I've noticed all you said too! On big overlapping area I get into troubles with false signals ! I subscribe everything !
    But I've made my bandido's DD like you said about minelab stuff !
    And then it works really cool.

    Thanks for drawing pattern!

    Best regards,
    Max

    Leave a comment:


  • ivconic
    replied
    No of turns!!!


    OOOH! I forgot to mentioned number of turns for this coil;

    120 turns for TX and 125 for RX....

    Bye!

    Leave a comment:


  • ivconic
    replied
    Hercules 2

    Hercules 2
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • ivconic
    replied
    Hercules housing 1

    Hercules housing ....
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • ivconic
    replied
    Ugly coil!

    Ugly coil, isnt it?
    I made it without much of material....Anyway it is working good!
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • ivconic
    replied
    Hi


    Hi,
    just back to short break. It is hot here, 43 degrees!
    Hard conditions to stay outdoor for longer period..
    Anyway, i have few more notices for you people;
    First, i made several coils for TGS, all of them are DD.
    I usually used old proven method, like so many times
    described here.No need to repeat again.
    But let's back to good old Minelab coils; those are
    working very good!
    Have you ever took a good,steady look on those shapes?
    Minelab DD coils are all simillar,but much more different
    than any hand-made i ever seen....
    Angle of overlaping is less than at usuall hand-made?
    So i tried to "copy" that shape and see what's going on.
    Finally made a bit larger DD coil with 28cm diammeter.
    Of course i used 0.25mm (0.28mm with varnish) wire for both
    coils...
    Results are much better than expected. 1cm nickel coin at
    40cm in the air and 33cm in the ground!!!
    Discrimination - PERFECT! Stabillity - PERFECT! Neither one
    false signal, no matter if i swing coil,cable...or simillar
    "torture" due testing stabillity...
    But i tried to respect Minelab "shape" and overlap coils tight
    and close, without rising distance between overlaping parts.
    Also noticed, this way is much easier later to null coils.
    Usually it takes 10-15 minutes to null coil with a lot of
    efforts, now; it takes me few seconds to find best "spot" to
    null those!!!?
    Except benefits, i havent noticed any drawback of doing this way.
    Performances are much better now.
    Minelab...ehm! If you can not beat them, than learn from them!
    No need for further explanations,just look at picture.
    I am not sure why this coil is working better and why it is much
    easy to balance it....i can make assumptions here..but must be
    some of you more conversant to explain, better than me?
    Another tip; detector housing...! Ts,ts,ts...i had so many
    problems in the past to find proper housing for my detectors.
    Now, it's a piece of cake!
    Remember good old Hercules monitor for pc XT and later 286/386..???
    Back side,lid made of plastic,part which covers tubular end of screen!?
    Simply use small,precise saw and cut nicely that part of plastic and you have
    very nice housing for detector! Look on the picture...
    Front panel cut from another piece of plastic....and that is all!
    Very best regards!
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:

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