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  • paku
    replied
    Ok This My My TGSL

    Click image for larger version

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    Click image for larger version

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    Dit I Make Rong circuit

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  • paku
    replied
    Help i have finish my TGSL but have problem when i put the 12v battery i just got sound from speaker click and just silence

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  • paku
    replied
    Thanks Guru-guru In Here

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  • satdaveuk
    replied
    Originally posted by Jerry View Post
    I think the lines are pointing to C-13 and C-16 which are .022 uf . The 4.7 electrolytic s are shown as circles above and below.

    Dont have my board layout picture handy right now but I am pretty sure that is what it is and will update if I find that is not the case.

    Jerry
    Your right Jerry 22NF
    I must be going potty

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  • Jerry
    replied
    Originally posted by satdaveuk View Post
    Your looking at C14 and C17 on the circuit diagram which are both correctly valued as 4.7MFD bipolar capacitors which means they are electrolytic type capacitors without the +/- poles.

    Regards
    I think the lines are pointing to C-13 and C-16 which are .022 uf . The 4.7 electrolytic s are shown as circles above and below.

    Dont have my board layout picture handy right now but I am pretty sure that is what it is and will update if I find that is not the case.

    Jerry

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  • satdaveuk
    replied
    Your looking at C14 and C17 on the circuit diagram which are both correctly valued as 4.7MFD bipolar capacitors which means they are electrolytic type capacitors without the +/- poles.
    If you look to the left bottom of the circuit diagram there are two 10mfd electrolytic capacitors that are polarized IE they have a + and - polarity.
    By putting them in series back to back you have created a non polarized capacitor at 5MFD which many on here have used as a substitute.
    Don't want to get to technical here but because of the tolerance boundary which is .01% or less in these builds by using two capacitors in series giving you 5MFD automatically puts you out of tolerance but further more to that the non polarized electrolytic is constructed differently and when manufactures implement using two series electrolytic capacitors they often if not always do circuit changes to accommodate so theres more to it than meets the eye although disputes and opinions have been thrashed about for years on the subject its down to every engineers opinion.
    I personal always go by the code of practice indeed thats the way I was trained where ever possible strictly stick to manufactures specification and you wont go far wrong.
    Once you have the build up and running to spec then thats when you can start experimenting things like Eduardo modifications because you have something correctly built to work from but as I said previously just because a modification works on his doesn't mean it will work on yours because his overall spec may well be different to yours.
    If something isn't built correctly in the first place you can mod it as much as you like but I guarantee you will be shooting up your rear for ever more and end up with nothing more than a toy that will not have any practical use at all.
    Regards

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  • paku
    replied
    Click image for larger version

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    sory i dont no read the Schmatic
    i just know about component
    what is the capacitor value on that picture

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  • paku
    replied
    thanks satdaveuk, matrik, for the support
    now i get from shop is C557B and F256B can i use it

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  • matrix
    replied
    Thank You again satdaveuk, for support beginners here on this six year old page.
    of course You in England will also connivance our poor English, and help us with great patience.

    best wishes
    M

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  • satdaveuk
    replied
    Hi
    Also forgot to mention about C14 ... try and get hold of the proper 4.7mfd bipolar capacitor rather than series with two 10mfd because that component is critical and needs to me 4.7mfd, Allot of discussions gone on in the past about that one and I am not convinced that back to back series with two 10mfd does the job accurately enough.

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  • satdaveuk
    replied
    Hi Paku
    You may get away with MPS 102, 2n5457, 2n5484, J201, or Toshiba SK170 but keep in mind its paramount you get the pinout ids correct.
    The first three I mentioned normally are reverse connections compared to the BF245A-B and C but dont take my word for it get pinouts from the manufactures of the particular transistor you obtain.

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  • paku
    replied
    can u give me the answer link of this question i dont find i have reead 203page on this thread
    can u help! give me the link

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  • porkluvr
    replied
    Originally posted by paku View Post
    hello im new here!
    i need help!
    in my country cannot get bf245c and j107,
    so what is the best replacement for this part
    Didn't somebody already answer that same question? Just the other day. (I swear to God, it was just the other day.)

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  • paku
    replied
    hello im new here!
    i need help!
    in my country cannot get bf245c and j107,
    so what is the best replacement for this part

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  • matrix
    replied
    Originally posted by porkluvr View Post
    Hooray for finding LM308.

    BS107 MOSFET will be NO good!

    I think 2N3819 is a hit-or miss deal. Some will work OK, and some will not. You should look for something better.

    Try to find 2N5484, 2N5485, 2N4393, J112, J113.

    k246 (2SK246) should work OK, but you do need to twist 2SK246 leads to where they match the PCB.
    Here is good place for datasheets.

    edit: this is a re-edit. Some of the FETS listed here have leads that are 180 degrees away from the others and you should download and review appropriate device datasheet, and adjust, before you use these devices as substitutes. DONE.
    OK . again I will try to find them
    Thanks for supports and link,
    I seems lucky having new good friends... and better English of course

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