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  • simonbaker
    replied
    Originally posted by dfbowers View Post
    Sorry.. I forgot to add a few details.. I am using .25mm wire (30 gauge I believe). No constraining at all. When I wind coils, I feed the wire through a small container filled with varnish. It is an old pill bottle with two pinholes. The wire goes in one pinhole and out the other so the wire goes on the form "stickey". Let the wire dry for a while. Then just remove the top and gently work the coil off the form. That's it! I usually put a few extra turns on the coils so I can just peel off a layer or two to tune it. Usually, inductance is dead on from coil to coil.

    I tested the coil pictured above. No improvement over any other coil I have made. Just looks a lot nicer. Most coils I build, I can detect a 1e at 29 or 30mm. I'm going to build a second circuit board, a little different to see what difference it makes. The coils I have made have been "jumble" wound.. Not neat layers, but they come out with a square cross section.
    I was always wondering if layering would make any difference.

    Don
    Beautiful work...

    How do you keep the varnish from building up on the form and also making the coil difficult to remove from the form?

    Regards,

    -SB

    Leave a comment:


  • dfbowers
    replied
    Originally posted by pip3c View Post
    dfbowers.

    I am happy to see my plan in the real, and to make you satisfied.
    I would like to wish you good luck to the enclosure, and thanks the data about the inductancies. Are this data's after or before the constraining?
    Sorry.. I forgot to add a few details.. I am using .25mm wire (30 gauge I believe). No constraining at all. When I wind coils, I feed the wire through a small container filled with varnish. It is an old pill bottle with two pinholes. The wire goes in one pinhole and out the other so the wire goes on the form "stickey". Let the wire dry for a while. Then just remove the top and gently work the coil off the form. That's it! I usually put a few extra turns on the coils so I can just peel off a layer or two to tune it. Usually, inductance is dead on from coil to coil.

    I tested the coil pictured above. No improvement over any other coil I have made. Just looks a lot nicer. Most coils I build, I can detect a 1e at 29 or 30mm. I'm going to build a second circuit board, a little different to see what difference it makes. The coils I have made have been "jumble" wound.. Not neat layers, but they come out with a square cross section.
    I was always wondering if layering would make any difference.

    Don

    Leave a comment:


  • Dennis the Mennis
    replied
    Originally posted by dfbowers View Post
    Pip3c.

    Nice! Your pattern makes very pretty coils using the "sandwich" method (no string). These required 110t for 6.5mH and 105 for 6.0mH, at least for my winder. Too bad I'm going to enclose them in epoxy!

    Don
    Hi Don ,

    I'm curious :

    What detection rate did you get on a 1- and a 2 euro coin with these coils if you already connected them ?
    And what AWG did you use ?
    When nulling the coils did you had to change the shape of the coil for the best results ?

    btw great idea about the 'sandwich construction' !

    I was experimenting with these 'construction' for a square coil with sequence in the layers:

    the piece of paper was for the contrast, this way you can realy see the layer by layer build up

    Click image for larger version

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    Click image for larger version

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    Click image for larger version

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    Only the space was a little too big , perhaps when it's smaller I get a perfect layer by layer and perhaps a small advantage is that these coil can be constrained .

    So far it did not bring me any luck nor the desired detection

    regards

    Dennis the Mennis

    Leave a comment:


  • pip3c
    replied
    dfbowers.

    I am happy to see my plan in the real, and to make you satisfied.
    I would like to wish you good luck to the enclosure, and thanks the data about the inductancies. Are this data's after or before the constraining?

    Leave a comment:


  • dfbowers
    replied
    Originally posted by pip3c View Post
    Hi fellows!

    I want to build my own TGSL, following Ivconic's tutorial.
    I am not sure about the dimension of the coil, so before I start, I share my coil's plan. It is designed with autocad, and this is a printable pdf version in 1:1. Please comment it! If it is (or will be) a good construction feel free to use it, it is my gift.
    Pip3c.

    Nice! Your pattern makes very pretty coils using the "sandwich" method (no string). These required 110t for 6.5mH and 105 for 6.0mH, at least for my winder. Too bad I'm going to enclose them in epoxy!

    Don
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • sevar12
    replied
    thanks everything is ok i forget Tx i have -6,5V

    Leave a comment:


  • Dennis the Mennis
    replied
    Originally posted by sevar12 View Post
    Hi every body i bild one TGS but i dont where is this -6,25V before 1n4148 and 470 k i have 0,74 v what is wrong

    Hi Sevar ,

    Perhaps you mean this point ? :
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    If so , this part is only for the positive voltage and the battery check .

    Please note that for the negative voltage the Tx coil must be connected and you must have (Tx) oscillation , then the negative voltage is generated in this part :
    Click image for larger version

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    regards ,

    Dennis the Mennis

    Leave a comment:


  • Cyclonite
    replied
    Originally posted by sevar12 View Post
    Hi every body i bild one TGS but i dont where is this -6,25V before 1n4148 and 470 k i have 0,74 v what is wrong
    Hi @sevar12,

    Did you build the TGSL by using @Ivconic's PCB?, for C17 (a+b) or Bi-Pol is connected to -12 Volts.

    Are you not you just measuring the DC Voltage drop over the 1N4148 (D9) ?

    For more information concerning TGSL Tuning & troubleshooting, you may also want to read this thread:

    TGSL Tuning & troubleshooting:
    General tech discussions on all types of metal detectors: VLF, 2-box, BFO, off-resonance, PLL, etc. Questions, ideas, and anything else that moves you.


    Regards,

    Robert

    Attachment: Extraction of problem area referred to by @sevar12
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • sevar12
    replied
    Hi every body i bild one TGS but i dont where is this -6,25V before 1n4148 and 470 k i have 0,74 v what is wrong

    Leave a comment:


  • meridas
    replied
    Reply

    Originally posted by pip3c View Post
    Hi fellows!

    I want to build my own TGSL, following Ivconic's tutorial.
    I am not sure about the dimension of the coil, so before I start, I share my coil's plan. It is designed with autocad, and this is a printable pdf version in 1:1. Please comment it! If it is (or will be) a good construction feel free to use it, it is my gift.

    If this is ok, than thx your effort, I will use it sure.

    Leave a comment:


  • pip3c
    replied
    TGSL Coil dimension

    Hi fellows!

    I want to build my own TGSL, following Ivconic's tutorial.
    I am not sure about the dimension of the coil, so before I start, I share my coil's plan. It is designed with autocad, and this is a printable pdf version in 1:1. Please comment it! If it is (or will be) a good construction feel free to use it, it is my gift.
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • simonbaker
    replied
    24k resistors

    There are two 24k resistors used in the TGSL schematic. One is in the TX oscillator, the other is a pull-up for the discrim comparator driving a JFet detector.

    Can 22k or 27k resistors be used just as well? Why did Tesoro choose 24k? Especially for the pull-up?

    -SB

    Leave a comment:


  • simonbaker
    replied
    schema,layout files

    Qiaozhi -- it would seem that the original Sprint layout and schematic file (.sch ExpressSCH format) should be bundled in the TGS project files; they can be useful for mods.

    Leave a comment:


  • Qiaozhi
    replied
    Originally posted by Cyclonite View Post
    Interesting however, is a small bug that does not allow an "8" to be proceeded by a ")"
    Yes - I know about that one. The workaround is to simply to add a space between the "8" and the ")". The other solution is turn off support for smileys, and we don't want to do that.

    Leave a comment:


  • Qiaozhi
    replied
    Originally posted by dfbowers View Post
    Corrected one line.. U104 and U105 should be a TL071AN or LM308N.

    Don
    Replaced parts list with modified version ->

    Leave a comment:

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