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  • simonbaker
    replied
    Originally posted by tiktak View Post
    Hi,
    simonbaker.
    This is a nice idea for experimental nulling.But I dont see how you can fix the coil in its final position.You see my point.I also hate solder and desolder again but......This are not even shielded.Plus I think that the both windings should be sealed with epoxy at once.And thats the trick.Keeping good null in same time.
    I had some average experiance with sealing step buy step.Several layers.
    So the windings should be fixed reliable and then sealed at once with epoxy.This way you have net and resistable construction.

    Thanks
    Yes, nulling machine not for real use, just experiments (and humor - a real contraption! ). I will shield it eventually, but part of test is to see how it works unshielded too.

    I will need to learn expertise of making, sealing, shielding real coils soon, like you and others make, very excellent. Advice is always appreciated.

    Cheers,

    -SB

    Leave a comment:


  • DIRCEU
    replied
    Originally posted by ivconic View Post
    Dirceu, nice pcb.
    One thing might cause you a problem; 1000uF footprint. It supposed to be 1000uf/25V. You should place there larger footprint....maybe? Maybe not, depends of capacitors you can find in your local shops.
    Hi! IVCONIC

    Yes. 1000uF/25V. No problems with components here.In local shops I find several sizes for these components.

    Best Regards

    DIRCEU

    Leave a comment:


  • DIRCEU
    replied
    Originally posted by Max View Post
    Hi,
    very good work!

    It's really good made PCB, did you use a professional service to get them or it's your work only ?

    The components seems very good to me for the purpose.

    It's really probable you'll get improved S/N from that approach.
    Nice to hear good results!

    Kind regards,
    Max

    Hi! MAX

    To drew some lines and components at a ready PCB... really its nothing.
    The credits should be given to the IVCONIC's efforts to optimize this project and also give to us your results.

    Best regards

    DIRCEU

    Leave a comment:


  • eclipse
    replied
    Originally posted by tiktak View Post
    Hi,
    Ha.ha.ha....
    Shame but same story with me.
    In some shops there are good electronics.But this Mouser & Digikey is a how different story.How long did you wait for a shipping?
    And what is your location?
    ))))
    Parts from digikey came after 7 days, mouser took 3 weeks - same delivery company (USPS) for both orders - 30$ each (huh.. bad.) I am from Bulgaria.
    The only things I didnt order is the cable, and damn even in shop for cables I can't find suitable. Just walked all around the city, nothing.
    You are right, its getting harder to find parts, too much cheap electronics and noone repairs or makes himself.

    Regards

    Leave a comment:


  • Max
    replied
    uhm... this is more and more a problem today

    Originally posted by ivconic View Post
    Huh,story of my life! Same situation here...
    More benefits when took components from scrap electronic than from local shops! They even rised prices recently!
    Hi,
    yes, it's a problem everywhere I think apart big cities... where you find always everything you need, but now not always true, I tested myself many times and I'm now really annoyed by that.

    I have 5 shops just near me... and many others at few kms but I'm not satisfied with them all... also !

    Problem is that today they raised prices of that stuff with no apparent reason... this stuff needed for TGS/TGSL is really old too! Apart lm308 that was always a pain to find... even 10-15years ago... all the rest are old parts... very common also... really cheap... what for lm393, what for lm358 ???

    So what ? They simply don't buy enough stuff... and enough quality parts...and what they have on stock is then limited in number and quality...

    THE MOST RELEVANT CAUSE:
    I think the fact many repairing services shut down... simply made distributors went out of this components business: today few people wanna repair something like e.g. a TV... maybe 10% than just 20years ago. The rapairing business is often not worth the expense... and people trash stuff and buy new things.

    So apart big dealers like Maplin and others... all the rest is just if you need an e.g. switch... or a roll of solder wire... real stuff you need you'll not find 3 times over 4.

    Good solution is buy big blobs of components from big dealers... when you find some good offer... I bought thousands of resistors that way... also caps and diodes... pack of 250 pieces also of 1n4148, a real bargain sometimes.

    But real problem is still you cannot buy everything you'll need in the future: you simply don't know about!

    Kind regards,
    Max

    Leave a comment:


  • tiktak
    replied
    Hi

    Hi,
    Ha.ha.ha....
    Shame but same story with me.
    In some shops there are good electronics.But this Mouser & Digikey is a how different story.How long did you wait for a shipping?
    And what is your location?
    ))))

    Leave a comment:


  • ivconic
    replied
    Originally posted by eclipse View Post
    .........
    In local shop I can't even find potentiometers what to say about the LM308, good caps, etc, not to mention the quality is low (some of them are dead on arrival).... real loosers Im done buying components from the shops here.

    Huh,story of my life! Same situation here...
    More benefits when took components from scrap electronic than from local shops! They even rised prices recently!

    Leave a comment:


  • ivconic
    replied
    Dirceu, nice pcb.
    One thing might cause you a problem; 1000uF footprint. It supposed to be 1000uf/25V. You should place there larger footprint....maybe? Maybe not, depends of capacitors you can find in your local shops.

    Leave a comment:


  • eclipse
    replied
    I will post detail information on the process of making + pics
    I ordered the board in a local manifacturing company (pcb with solder mask and print screen -20$), hand made won't be that good for the purpose.
    Parts are ordered from Mouser & Digikey.
    In local shop I can't even find potentiometers what to say about the LM308, good caps, etc, not to mention the quality is low (some of them are dead on arrival).... real loosers Im done buying components from the shops here.

    Leave a comment:


  • rdec4
    replied
    Given the above published photos have the following question:

    What exactly is the method of calculating phase difference between TX and RX with two channel analog oscilloscope, so the result is in degrees?

    Leave a comment:


  • tiktak
    replied
    Hi,

    Hi,
    simonbaker.
    This is a nice idea for experimental nulling.But I dont see how you can fix the coil in its final position.You see my point.I also hate solder and desolder again but......This are not even shielded.Plus I think that the both windings should be sealed with epoxy at once.And thats the trick.Keeping good null in same time.
    I had some average experiance with sealing step buy step.Several layers.
    So the windings should be fixed reliable and then sealed at once with epoxy.This way you have net and resistable construction.

    Dirceu.
    Nice work.

    Eclipse
    You lift the standarts here.Where you order this PCB and the parts.
    Please post about LT1008 performance.

    Thanks

    Leave a comment:


  • Max
    replied
    for Simon

    Hi,
    look at that: it's Qiaozhi's picture of signals at TX, RX (output of preamp) using an original coil (maybe it's an 8'' round ? I've tested an 8'' round an was exactly the same stuff too...I suppose they are about all the same... no matter of size or widescan...spider... etc).

    I read about the same on my 9x8'', also... you'll get left shifts of RX signal nearing any metal, but no shift in pure mineral response (e.g. ferrite crystals)

    Kind regards,
    Max
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • Max
    replied
    Originally posted by simonbaker View Post
    Continued...

    Pic 1 - one side of null.
    Pic 2 - other side of null.

    Cheers!

    -SB
    Hi,
    this is the right side... if you're looking at output of preamp: there's something (I cannot read it well from picture) around 200°

    That's where you're supposed to "null" the coil: be aware you'll probably cannot mantain that phase also at minimum voltage... you just need to keep voltage smallest as possible matching that phase... other phase will false disc and geb... and your device will be completely unreliable.

    Kind regards,
    Max
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • Max
    replied
    Originally posted by eclipse View Post
    Don't want to spoil the discussion, though the page is already going to end..
    here are some images from today
    1. the sweet ICs im going to use 2. bottom layer with gnd plane 3.time to solder
    Hi,
    very good work!

    It's really good made PCB, did you use a professional service to get them or it's your work only ?

    The components seems very good to me for the purpose.

    It's really probable you'll get improved S/N from that approach.
    Nice to hear good results!

    Kind regards,
    Max

    Leave a comment:


  • DIRCEU
    replied
    Hi! ALL

    I'm starting the TGSL with the new audio improvements by IVCONIC. For that I redraw the TGSL PCB.
    I intend to make a 25 cm DD coil with graphite shielding for this project.



    DIRCEU

    Leave a comment:

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