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i agree about the blankets not all being equal, i think most are just thin alu foil coated polypropylene (both sides), but i got hold of one of the gold coloured ones that st johns ambulance use that was definitely mylar, but could not connect to it satisfactorily, any movement in the shield wire caused noise on the scope, and that was sticking the wire to it with conductive epoxy.
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Really bugs me I can't get the spaceblanket to work. Can't figure out whats wrong so can't fix. Seen plenty of pictures of coils done this way. Even a quick and dirty test of a piece of card covered in carbon from battery and a wire tapped to the top works better. Not sure if all spaceblankets are not created equal or I am doing something stupid.
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hi koala, i tried space blanket too, but i could not find a viable and permanent connection, i gave up in the end.
and went with a wire wrap with graphite paint, which works fine on my mono and dd PI coils, but i have wound a dd for my idx and a small dd for the 3900 proplus.
i have stopped at the shield stage, l'm looking for something to shield these with.
i have found some zinc coated copper mesh, i wondered about winding a strip of this around to make the shield, but i dont know if its any good.
i would welcome any input on this, these coils are so hard to wind at the best of times, i will not attempt a shield unless it stands a chance of working.
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Some ground needs better shield than others. Dry powdery sand almost runs without a shield at all. Stoney wet field with long wet grass not only sound on every touch but also fails to ground balance properly in all metal mode.Originally posted by golfnut View PostI bought a toner to try off the bay but was non conductive.
I also struggle with home coils on wet grass, the deus eats wet grass for breakfast.
I have read nearly every post on using a spaceblanket tried every possible combination none work not sure how other get it to work. Different ground or different type of space blanket.
This is as far as I have got with my new coil. Gone for spacing the shield a few millermeters away from the coils with some underlay foam.
need to clear some space of metal to null the coils also need to be able to leave for a few day as I am using epoxy which does not harden below 20C
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I bought a toner to try off the bay but was non conductive.
I also struggle with home coils on wet grass, the deus eats wet grass for breakfast.
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i want connect shield of DD coil to that wire,then connect wire to copper tape next connect it on graphite plate.graphite plate means i want use carton and spray on it.i want use 2 plates of carton.one of them above and another Under the DD coil and connect shield to them plates by copper tap .Originally posted by sinclairuser View Postyes you could use spray graphite on that, you stick a small square of copper tape down solder the shield wire to the copper and spray on.
yes its the shield wire, but i cant say where it goes that depends on the detector design.
and yes that looks like resin.
it is correct?
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yes you could use spray graphite on that, you stick a small square of copper tape down solder the shield wire to the copper and spray on.Originally posted by mohandes View Postwho can help me by simple language
[ATTACH]32466[/ATTACH][ATTACH]32467[/ATTACH]
yes its the shield wire, but i cant say where it goes that depends on the detector design.
and yes that looks like resin.
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hi
i see clip of body in YouTube use switch for disc , so where i add this to do it , or it is not possible .
regards
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this VDI buy turkey is ok and work better VDI like 16f88 pr no?
ust_yerlesim_02.pdfalt_yerlesim_02.pdfpcb_v02.pdfsch_02.pdfth
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i used clear acrylic lacquer, i made it to satdaveuk's recipe( that thread is in tools and techniques), i ommitted the splash of turps lol.Originally posted by seadoggy View PostWith what you mix that powder mate??i try varnish for wood but dont have good results.
regards
i covered my coils in paper hospital tape, added a very fine uncoated copper wire wrapped round the tape about 1/2 an inch pitch, then coated it with coats of the mixture.
the cable shield connects to that wire but only one end, the other is left embedded in the paint.
i added thin coats and let it dry, in between coats i tested resistance, when i had as near as recommended in daves thread i stopped.
when it hardens it gains a bit more, you need to allow for that, also rub the probes on the surface to make a good contact.
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hi all.
in all VLF detector which is have best disc and stability /
regards
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What glue to use with Graphite powder?
I have never done this myself, but if I was going to do it, I would pick a liquid fiberglass resin with a slow cure time to mix the graphite with, and not to mix too much up at a time. Several coats will usually be better. If using Polyester, put on the next coat just as the coat before is almost cured/hard, it sticks better then. Epoxy works hardened or not!!Originally posted by seadoggy View PostWith what you mix that powder mate??i try varnish for wood but dont have good results.
regards
Its available in quite large quantities, in plastic bottles from some online suppliers.
Denatured alcohol will also clean fingers and the like provided it hasn't fully hardened...Buy plenty!!


If using Polyester, which is usually cheaper, you need a slightly roughened surface for good adhesion....of course it also improves Epoxy resin bonding as well! Mix the Graphite into the binder well, before adding the correct amount of hardener, once you are happy with the consistency.
A warm environment will speed up hardening quite dramatically!
Always clean the surface to be glued with the alcohol and do not touch the surface with your fingers anymore before glueing as perspiration/sweat may preven bonding....
Of course, throwaway rubber gloves can also be used to great effect as well....
Epoxy resin "sticks" better to most surfaces but is usually far more expensive....not that I am fully upto date on prices!!



In some countries idenatured called methylated spirits by the way......
Regards
Andy
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