Originally posted by golfnut
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Seems we have a lot of new builders all starting at the same time. Good choice great project.
Best thing anyone can do that is build from the a silverdog PCB with no modification. Second best is etch the original board with no mods that is known to be 100%
To start with only switch on for a few seconds while checking if anything is getting hot/warm. Everything on a good build stays cold. If something is wrong and blows without this check it can be a right PITA to find later.
Check the voltages
It is also worth measuring the current if you are using a good coil. I posted the current awhile back in this thread with and without sound from a target. Don't worry if it's a bit different but should be in the same ball park
If you have a scope connect the TX and measure the frequency (anywhere near 6.5khz it does not have to be exact) Without this you will get nowhere
If you don't have a scope consider buying a coil. If it does not work you will have no way of knowing if it's the coil or board fault
If you are planning to do any mods don't do them until after you detector is up and running.
Taking little steps is the key
To get consistent results when testing you need the PCB mounted in a shielded/metal case and the coil connector outer shield grounded. Connecting wires short and twisted together. Also worth grounding the POTs. If you use the outer edge of the PCB as ground as most people do then you need to insulate the headphone socket
The detector work perfectly fine outside of the box but when doing air tests you get inconsistent results if you move the cables also it can become unstable.
My detector even though its in a metal box still does not like my soldering iron on and some florescent lights.
My detector is unstable with no coil connected others are stable without the coil connected so just unplugging the cable to test is not enough.
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