My ABS rod to coil connector also broke and i decided to buy a whole shaft.
It wasnt hardened. I think you can use molding sand to hold the piece in place while it tis in the oven.
I would suggest to buy the fiberglass rod and print the rest of the parts with the 3d printer.
You could also use plastic rods like acetal (POM).
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Not to be the negative nanny, im only trying to give you guys the benefits of my experience, I have also tried that, I was so convinced of that, to the point of buying 3 rolls of HTPLA, but sadly it still not strong enough, and when you factor in the added price of the more expensive filament plus oven warm up cost and the extra calculations due to shrinkage ( which is hard to figure out because it never shrinks the same way twice), your better off buying a stem loll . Im sure you seen this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CZX8eHC7fwsOriginally posted by BKY1337 View PostYou can harden the 3D printed parts in the oven. So the layers will melt together.
I saw this board somewhere yesterday. Name of the MD was Krot or something like that.
I guess it was a microcontroller based vlf detector.
I think the board is a Kpot or something still doesn't really apply to the boards we find on Geotech.
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You can harden the 3D printed parts in the oven. So the layers will melt together.
I saw this board somewhere yesterday. Name of the MD was Krot or something like that.
I guess it was a microcontroller based vlf detector.
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Originally posted by 6666 View Postthanks to KT315 check this out
http://md-arena.com/samodelnyj-metal...vitelnye-foto/
I've seen it before and very cool, however I don't read Russian and have no clue what or where we could get the board, here another one like it http://www.de-si-gn.com/3Dmodel_mK.html, One thing I can say with certainty, unless the shafts are printed out of Nylons or something like it , they will break from the inertia for the coils weight swing back and forth, I faced a similar problem with the hand grips on my MD's , I solved the problem with placing a stainless steel Chicago bolt throw the printed part and shaft.
I also had to change my coil designs to have a empty cavity on the part where the coil connects to the shaft, and filled the void with fiberglass resins to prevent breakage over time, my first coil had to be fixed many times till I did this.
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thanks to KT315 check this out
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thank for info about carbon fiber I shall stick with the known method of shielding then
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I bought a few rolls of Proto pasta Carbon fiber and the conductive pla, none of them do anything for EMI or anything metal detector related, In the end they are very much PLA just with added fiber powder and a weak blend at best. I have not tried the Camel one you speak of, nonetheless I would assume their all kind of the same blends.Originally posted by Chiv View Postjust found this. K - Camel Carbon Fiber 3D Printer Filament 1.75mm, be good for housing of pcb high conductivity it says on site
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If the Aluminium case doesn't work out for you ,PC me you email. And no, I will not share those files on thingiverse, I do share on there,( https://www.thingiverse.com/tibuck/about ) but not MD stuff.Originally posted by BKY1337 View PostYes im interested , but i think i will not use it now because i have ordered aluminium enclosures.
You should upload your work at thingiverse.
I have designed all the files to be printed on a standard 200mmx200mm bed which 95% of the printers out there can do.
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just found this. K - Camel Carbon Fiber 3D Printer Filament 1.75mm, be good for housing of pcb high conductivity it says on site
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Smart surf set up Kosacid, did you shield inside the housing at all? I spent hours browsing that things site last night lol, some really good items to have a crack at when nothing better to do, thanks for the share.
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I have the same printer updated to marlin to center it stock firmware won't cut it
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I have an Anet A8 Printer and i guess i can print all of his parts with it.
Printing Area is 220x220mm. But its a cheap printer.
Maybe a bigger Printing Area would be better for MD Coil enclosures.
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