if you want the characteristics of coil 325 here they are:
l1: 160mm 160uh r 0.8ohm
l2: 320mm 313uh r 1.4ohm
litz wire 0.7 mm (175*46)
damp l1 312ohm
damp total 300ohm.
this gives 11 or 12 us on its delay .. an 18k 3grm alliance is detected at 24 cm In the wet sand of the beach. 2 eur to 32 cm.
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Hi Lamoiz! I thought you had gone to hibernation! Nice to hear from you again. Yes, I'm quite sick of buying IC's at the moment! Nearly every order were fake chips. Not just 5534 but lt1054 and 4066 too. Don't forget to post the pics of your new coil. Looking forward to seeing it. Regards, Marty.
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Good to have you back LamoizOriginally posted by lamoiz View PostHi guys I’m back after a long period of inactivity on the detectors. I read that the voodoo had another program. I still finished a dd for him, it works, but is not optimum.super d is still under construction.In the meantime I made a nano. it’s quick and easy.I did a nice dual field of 32.5 cm and a response to 11us . This mold is so good that I’ll use it to make a concentric for voodoo. I’ll make you pictures tomorrow of it all!
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I think I'm going to replace the delay potentiometer with a rotary switch and fixed resistors. We can quickly lose the right position with the pot. especially at night at the beach .. it would be a shame to miss targets because of that!
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Hi guys I’m back after a long period of inactivity on the detectors. I read that the voodoo had another program. I still finished a dd for him, it works, but is not optimum.super d is still under construction.In the meantime I made a nano. it’s quick and easy.I did a nice dual field of 32.5 cm and a response to 11us . This mold is so good that I’ll use it to make a concentric for voodoo. I’ll make you pictures tomorrow of it all!
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Hi MartyOriginally posted by MartyJ1963 View PostHi all. fnally built myself a working ANPI. I just wanted to say a big thank you to George, MartinB and 6666 for the help they gave me while building this project. Quick update:- Beware of fake chips. I found that the biggest problem I had during my last 4 build projects (1xVoodoo/2xCrossbows/2xAMPI's) was using fake IC's. I used LT1054 in all 4 projects,,,all but 3 were fake,,and that was out of 3 full bags of 20 ordered way back when starting the Voodoo project. A lot of my NE5532's were fake also. The latest and biggest culprit though was the NE5534N. I ordered 2 bags of 20 when I started my Crossbow projects,,,all were fake. I ordered 2 more bags from dfferent suppliers,,,all were fake apart from 2 but they both gave different results and readings when trying to zero the voltages. I found one that fully worked out of every NE5534 I had bought since building the Voodoo and this one is now in my working ANPI. I am still awaiting arrival of some more NE5534N's that I recently ordered from a company in the Netherlands. They are described as ''New-Old stock'' and original,,,Hope they are then maybe I can sort the issues with the 2 Crossbows.
I also had a lot of problems with the Nano V3 boards I bought. The first 2 had the CH340G on board and the 2nd 2 had the FT232R USB ART chip on board.
No matter what driver I installed (I use Windows 7 64 bit) I could not get the Nano's to program or even be recognised by Windows.
I was then told how to go about extracting the Hex file from Arduino codes (by 6666) and was surpised by how easy it was to do. But, because I was still having problems with fake chips I wasn't able to verify the Nano's working.
A very nice fellow named MartinB kindly offered to send me a programmed Nano. At first I couldn't get my ANPI to work. So, I built a 2nd ANPI. As always, I bilt the project in stages and checked each step as I went along.
I still couldn't get my -5V. After trying over 50+ LT1054's I found one that finally gave me -5V.
When I got to the stage of Zeroing with the 100k trim (R12) ,,,nothing,,,the voltage wouldn't shift either way. Again, after trying 50+ NE5534N's I found one that worked!
After that stage everything flowed smoothly!
I still have to configure my PC to accept and run the drivers for the Nano,,,but till then I can always use the method I learnt from 6666.
Sorry for the long winded post but I just wanted to say a big thank you, mainly, to George, Martin and Bruce for their kind help along the way,,,that's what makes a good forum
Beware of fake chips,,,I'll only be buying from reputable sources from now on because it just cost me more money in the long run not to mention the frustration of it all!,,Lol.
Thanks again, Regards, Marty.
Thanks for the mention.
Always happy to help out if I can.
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Hi all. fnally built myself a working ANPI. I just wanted to say a big thank you to George, MartinB and 6666 for the help they gave me while building this project. Quick update:- Beware of fake chips. I found that the biggest problem I had during my last 4 build projects (1xVoodoo/2xCrossbows/2xAMPI's) was using fake IC's. I used LT1054 in all 4 projects,,,all but 3 were fake,,and that was out of 3 full bags of 20 ordered way back when starting the Voodoo project. A lot of my NE5532's were fake also. The latest and biggest culprit though was the NE5534N. I ordered 2 bags of 20 when I started my Crossbow projects,,,all were fake. I ordered 2 more bags from dfferent suppliers,,,all were fake apart from 2 but they both gave different results and readings when trying to zero the voltages. I found one that fully worked out of every NE5534 I had bought since building the Voodoo and this one is now in my working ANPI. I am still awaiting arrival of some more NE5534N's that I recently ordered from a company in the Netherlands. They are described as ''New-Old stock'' and original,,,Hope they are then maybe I can sort the issues with the 2 Crossbows.
I also had a lot of problems with the Nano V3 boards I bought. The first 2 had the CH340G on board and the 2nd 2 had the FT232R USB ART chip on board.
No matter what driver I installed (I use Windows 7 64 bit) I could not get the Nano's to program or even be recognised by Windows.
I was then told how to go about extracting the Hex file from Arduino codes (by 6666) and was surpised by how easy it was to do. But, because I was still having problems with fake chips I wasn't able to verify the Nano's working.
A very nice fellow named MartinB kindly offered to send me a programmed Nano. At first I couldn't get my ANPI to work. So, I built a 2nd ANPI. As always, I bilt the project in stages and checked each step as I went along.
I still couldn't get my -5V. After trying over 50+ LT1054's I found one that finally gave me -5V.
When I got to the stage of Zeroing with the 100k trim (R12) ,,,nothing,,,the voltage wouldn't shift either way. Again, after trying 50+ NE5534N's I found one that worked!
After that stage everything flowed smoothly!
I still have to configure my PC to accept and run the drivers for the Nano,,,but till then I can always use the method I learnt from 6666.
Sorry for the long winded post but I just wanted to say a big thank you, mainly, to George, Martin and Bruce for their kind help along the way,,,that's what makes a good forum
Beware of fake chips,,,I'll only be buying from reputable sources from now on because it just cost me more money in the long run not to mention the frustration of it all!,,Lol.
Thanks again, Regards, Marty.
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Thanks for the explanaton and the help Bruce. I will have a look at it later and let you know the results. Regards, Marty
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"Do I use the USBasp to program the Nano with AVRDUDESS" yes ! but I have never used it.Originally posted by MartyJ1963 View PostHi Bruce. I took a look at that link you sent me. I seem to be abe to follow that guy's instructions ok on extracting the Hex from the code. But, I'm uncertain about what to do with it after that? Lol. Do I use the USBasp to program the Nano with AVRDUDESS when I've done it? What I'm unsure of is how to wire it to the USBasp? My USBasp programmer board is what I made myself from a small breadboard, a crystal, a few capacitors and a resistor and a Zif socket. I glued the little 6-pin adapter plug to it that accepts the 10-pin USBasp plug. Uncertain how to do it? Thanks, Marty.
Hi Marty, yes just wire the usbasp to the six pins on the nano icsp, I have the usbasp as I showed in the link and the six pin adaptor just plugs straight in,
with the hex code I copy and paste the path into extreme burner , click erase, then click program,
to make it easier you can copy the hex file into another folder to make the path shorter, because the arduino IDE makes the hex code no fuses are needed,
the icsp pins give you access to the programming pins on the 328, so I assume it should be the same as if the chip is in the socket
You should see pin number 1.
They number left to right
top to bottom
pin 1 miso----pin2 +5v
pin3 Bck------pin4 mosi
pin5 reset-----pin 6 ground
I hope it works for you, but if you choose not to proceed , will understand.
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Hi Bruce. I took a look at that link you sent me. I seem to be abe to follow that guy's instructions ok on extracting the Hex from the code. But, I'm uncertain about what to do with it after that? Lol. Do I use the USBasp to program the Nano with AVRDUDESS when I've done it? What I'm unsure of is how to wire it to the USBasp? My USBasp programmer board is what I made myself from a small breadboard, a crystal, a few capacitors and a resistor and a Zif socket. I glued the little 6-pin adapter plug to it that accepts the 10-pin USBasp plug. Uncertain how to do it? Thanks, Marty.
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Originally posted by MartyJ1963 View PostThanks Bruce,,,I'll take a look and see if I can sort my Nano with that method. Thanks, Marty.
I have found that some of these nano's bought at random from the net will not program via USB, but will program via the ICSP, at least you get to use the nano that way
I have found the UCEC brand from amazon work fine
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Hi MartyOriginally posted by MartyJ1963 View PostHi everyone. I'm having a real difficult time with my new Arduino Nano V.3 boards. The first 2 Nano's I ordered had the ch340g chip on board and I couldn't zero the 5534 or get the -5v on the both ANPI's I built. I received my 2 x Nano boards today that have the FT232R UART Chip on board and cannot get my pc to recognise them or install drivers for them. I have downloaded original drivers from FTI etc and other sites and still can't get the pc to recognise it or install it correctly. It's driving me absolutely daft! as I've been at this now for weeks! Can anyone offer any suggestions or alternative drivers or procedures etc please? Thanks, Marty.
You certainly are having problems.
Send me a PM with your address and I will send you a pre-programmed Nano.
Kind regards
Martin
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Thanks Bruce,,,I'll take a look and see if I can sort my Nano with that method. Thanks, Marty.
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