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  • tifred
    replied
    hello apberg, baracuda is very good, I use coil coiltek goldstalker mono coil tdi I repair and coil I make, thank you for your kit! my problem was interference from wire coil reverse ...: Rolleyes:
    Click image for larger version

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    Attached Files

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  • Davor
    replied
    Here is a pdf of a baracuda layout for my friend Mohandes
    Attached Files

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  • tifred
    replied
    hello
    I have a problem with my baracuda. it becomes erratic after five minutes of use.
    When I touch the cable to the coil, it emits signals. I use a blitz and coiltek tdi coil, and a coil house, still the same problem of sensitivity to touch, who can help me?:??:
    I also made ​​the correct settings to zero
    I use the IRF9640
    regards fred
    Sorry for the translation I use google traductor

    Leave a comment:


  • sinclairuser
    replied
    Originally posted by DATAX View Post
    Just discovered, the noise in my lab is very high. I put a small RC filter between U4A and U4b to smooth the signal. This help to put treshold level more in the edge.
    Now I can detect 1 Euro coin 25 cm. when I traslated my Baracuda kit to a less noisy place
    I played with delay control to best detection, but I'm in trouble, where to take measurements.
    Regards.
    Edgardo Maffia - Buenos Aires - Argentina
    Although some on here say shielding is not needed, for messing around as a project that maybe true.
    But i feel that to build a reliable robust machine that can be really used, shielding is a must it may also be required for the enclosure.
    I suppose it depends on your enclosure.
    Set offset to zero, adjust delay pot until it detects gold 18ct or better still 22,hell maybe even pure gold if you have it! then work from there any other "ringing" or unwanted noise probably means a problem, if built correctly with right components.
    That's how stable this design is.
    aly

    Leave a comment:


  • DATAX
    replied
    Originally posted by DATAX View Post
    I NEED CALIBRATION INSTRUCTIONS for Silver Dog Baracuda kit.

    I own a Silve Dog Baracuda kit assembled. It make sound like motorboating, and detect somewat.
    Unfortunately, I can't adjust it because I don't know levels, or where take the measurement.
    I adjusted balance of the 5534 front end Operational Amplifier, to 0 Volts refered to ground and midrange to the delay trimpot. Treshold control looks like have small response. In any setting give me random pulses.
    When I put a tool near tha coil (25 cm. diameter, 20 turns 1mm/Sq cable; 240 uH and 0,4 Ohms) there are some form of silencing and negative detection. Then, in a couple of seconds, the sound begin.
    Drain over 11 Volts is near 150 mA with coil connected and 30 mA without coil.
    Regards.
    Edgardo Maffia - Buenos Aires - Argentina

    Just discovered, the noise in my lab is very high. I put a small RC filter between U4A and U4b to smooth the signal. This help to put treshold level more in the edge.
    Now I can detect 1 Euro coin 25 cm. when I traslated my Baracuda kit to a less noisy place
    I played with delay control to best detection, but I'm in trouble, where to take measurements.
    Regards.
    Edgardo Maffia - Buenos Aires - Argentina

    Leave a comment:


  • DATAX
    replied
    I NEED CALIBRATION INSTRUCTIONS for Silver Dog Baracuda kit.

    I own a Silve Dog Baracuda kit assembled. It make sound like motorboating, and detect somewat.
    Unfortunately, I can't adjust it because I don't know levels, or where take the measurement.
    I adjusted balance of the 5534 front end Operational Amplifier, to 0 Volts refered to ground and midrange to the delay trimpot. Treshold control looks like have small response. In any setting give me random pulses.
    When I put a tool near tha coil (25 cm. diameter, 20 turns 1mm/Sq cable; 240 uH and 0,4 Ohms) there are some form of silencing and negative detection. Then, in a couple of seconds, the sound begin.
    Drain over 11 Volts is near 150 mA with coil connected and 30 mA without coil.
    Regards.
    Edgardo Maffia - Buenos Aires - Argentina

    Leave a comment:


  • sinclairuser
    replied
    Originally posted by satdaveuk View Post
    Hi The original did have both and if you wire the LED as I have stated and as the circuit diagram shows (don't omit anything) then you also will have both, but as I said your speaker/headphones need to be 32ohms. By doing this you can then run the machine both with LED and headphones or just LED on it own. Far as Q5 allot on here have done as you have and omitted it and there very happy so if your happy leave as it is. The SW1 far as I can gather was never ever used on this devise, whether it was for set up before leaving the factory is my guess and others on here, but thats all it is a guess, no one is certain I have asked Jim who originally designed the Barracuda and to date have had no reply.

    Regards
    thanks dave repaced q5 and resistors, though left off remote delay pot and added the led
    now perfect may try tweaking it later but it works and seems quite deaf to radio mush which in my shack is a bonus
    i guess only one man knows the truth about q5(as you eluded to!) but mine now has it (again) and still stable its as complete as can be done for now
    big thanks to all here for this thread
    i am now proud to recommend geotech projects to fellow tinkerers
    aly

    Leave a comment:


  • satdaveuk
    replied
    Originally posted by sinclairuser View Post
    hi dave thanks for that i know about replacing audio with an led but i was sure the original had both? as for speaker single head phone 32ohms(deaf in left ear!) did you ever work out the q5 thing i omitted it and it does indeed work fine. my idea is that the extra components and switch one are used for setting up in the factory if you add those parts with a simple on off switch or even a short across sw1 setup is way easier first setup i mean after that you can adjust in with the remote delay but i have removed q5 and remote delay and the detector is more stable and easier to use in my case anyway so i left it at that as i say my bara is better without the extra delay pot and q5 etc without them the detector does not drift and need to be adjusted aly
    Hi The original did have both and if you wire the LED as I have stated and as the circuit diagram shows (don't omit anything) then you also will have both, but as I said your speaker/headphones need to be 32ohms. By doing this you can then run the machine both with LED and headphones or just LED on it own. Far as Q5 allot on here have done as you have and omitted it and there very happy so if your happy leave as it is. The SW1 far as I can gather was never ever used on this devise, whether it was for set up before leaving the factory is my guess and others on here, but thats all it is a guess, no one is certain I have asked Jim who originally designed the Barracuda and to date have had no reply.

    Regards

    Leave a comment:


  • sinclairuser
    replied
    Originally posted by satdaveuk View Post
    Hi Sinclair
    The LED is directly wired between + supply line and the junction between R35/R36
    It mimics the audio responses perfectly providing your speaker load is 32 ohms as Barracuda manufacture specification , typical of most headphones in use today, or if no load is connected.
    If you deviate with output load then it greatly effects LED response and renders it near useless.

    Regards
    hi dave thanks for that i know about replacing audio with an led but i was sure the original had both?
    as for speaker single head phone 32ohms(deaf in left ear!)
    did you ever work out the q5 thing i omitted it and it does indeed work fine.
    my idea is that the extra components and switch one are used for setting up in the factory
    if you add those parts with a simple on off switch or even a short across sw1 setup is way easier first setup i mean after that you can adjust in with the remote delay but i have removed q5 and remote delay and the detector is more stable and easier to use
    in my case anyway so i left it at that as i say my bara is better without the extra delay pot and q5 etc without them the detector does not drift and need to be adjusted
    aly

    Leave a comment:


  • satdaveuk
    replied
    Hi Sinclair
    The LED is directly wired between + supply line and the junction between R35/R36
    It mimics the audio responses perfectly providing your speaker load is 32 ohms as Barracuda manufacture specification , typical of most headphones in use today, or if no load is connected.
    If you deviate with output load then it greatly effects LED response and renders it near useless.

    Regards

    Leave a comment:


  • sinclairuser
    replied
    i read above that dave added the led where on the board does it connect?
    when i built mine i could not find where to place it
    though it works really well depth is not as good as some have reported

    Leave a comment:


  • satdaveuk
    replied
    Note for up and coming engineers

    When building this project like all projects on here use all data side by side.
    Firstly print off the circuit diagram together placement files and parts list and work between all of them.
    By doing it this way which is the correct way your not only learning how the circuit ticks but closing doors on mistakes you could have easily avoided.

    All the best

    Leave a comment:


  • satdaveuk
    replied
    Hi Kt315
    As requested top plus bottom thrown in for good measure
    If Qiaozhi could also kindly upload these files to the project page then everyone should be happy
    Regards
    Attached Files

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  • kt315
    replied
    Satdaveuk, can you load this file bara_top.bmp sprint layout asks? tia

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  • satdaveuk
    replied
    Lay file

    Hi Qiaozhi
    Can you add this to the project file please
    Here is the layfile which is Sprint format for those who prefer to use it.
    I had to zip it to be able to put on here.
    Regards
    Attached Files

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