Voodoo Main Discussion

[Qiaozhi]

Thanks Qiaozhi. I've been searching the internet for a Troy 9" Concentric coil to buy but can't find any at the moment. If I wanted to make a DIY version of the Troy what would be the best wire gauge to use for both TX and RX coils please?,,in case I can't find a commercal one. Also, can the Voodoo pcb be made without the battery charger pcb so I could use an ordinary (Separate) Battery pack? I'd lke to be able to change batteries as they deplete. The main reason I'm wanting to build this project is that I want a detector that I can mainly use inland. I haven't done much beach detecting as I live 2 hours from the closest beach (And I never learnt to drive) and I'm absolutely surrounded for miles with Farmland, fields and tons of Woods/Woodland. For inland use I mainly use my Minipulse Rev-D, my Mirage or my T2,,,actually, I prefer my DIY detectors any day to my T2. It'll be great to finally have a DIY detector with ground balance and be able to explore all my local countryside where I live,,,I'll have no need then to find a beach!!,Lol. Thanks again, Marty.

Yes of course you can build Voodoo without needing the external battery charger. Instead of using 10x AA rechargeables, use 8x AA Alkalines instead.

If you want to make your own coil I would recommend winding the outer loop with thicker insulated wire, and using enameled copper wire for the inner loop. If you've ever made a coil for the TGSL, then you'll have no trouble building one for Voodoo. Look at Table 6-1 for a guide to inductances. Between 300uH and 500uH for the outer loop would be a good choice.

[MartyJ1963]

Thanks Qiaozhi. I've been searching the internet for a Troy 9" Concentric coil to buy but can't find any at the moment. If I wanted to make a DIY version of the Troy what would be the best wire gauge to use for both TX and RX coils please?,,in case I can't find a commercal one. Also, can the Voodoo pcb be made without the battery charger pcb so I could use an ordinary (Separate) Battery pack? I'd lke to be able to change batteries as they deplete. The main reason I'm wanting to build this project is that I want a detector that I can mainly use inland. I haven't done much beach detecting as I live 2 hours from the closest beach (And I never learnt to drive) and I'm absolutely surrounded for miles with Farmland, fields and tons of Woods/Woodland. For inland use I mainly use my Minipulse Rev-D, my Mirage or my T2,,,actually, I prefer my DIY detectors any day to my T2. It'll be great to finally have a DIY detector with ground balance and be able to explore all my local countryside where I live,,,I'll have no need then to find a beach!!,Lol. Thanks again, Marty.

[Qiaozhi]

@Qiaozhi,,Thanks for the info on those Mosfets. I had a good look at Chapter 6 last night but can't recall seeing what gauge wire was used to builds the coils. Does each coil have its own specifc wire gauge for TX and RX or are they all dfferent gauges? Which gauge is best to use please? Thanks again, Marty.
Thanks Bernt-one for the reply.

The coils were all wound with various wire thicknesses. Some coils were from other projects, some were wound with ordinary stranded hook-up wire, and others with 0.6mm copper enameled wire. Much depends on your particular search requirements as to which wire type is preferred.

[MartyJ1963]

@Qiaozhi,,Thanks for the info on those Mosfets. I had a good look at Chapter 6 last night but can't recall seeing what gauge wire was used to builds the coils. Does each coil have its own specifc wire gauge for TX and RX or are they all dfferent gauges? Which gauge is best to use please? Thanks again, Marty.
Thanks Bernt-one for the reply.

[waltr]

I own a copy of Mikroelektronika's mikroC PRO compiler which is obviously why I used that to develop the software, but perhaps someone can port it to the MPLAB XC compiler. I would do it myself but am currently tied up with other things.

Once I have source code I can port it to MPLABX and other PICs.

Waltr Which chips have you been playing with ?

My old stand by is the 16F88 (18pin 8MHz) and works great for many projects (used in my HammerHead II with code written in assembler).
Then on to the 18F series. Have used the 18F2610 & 26K22 but newest is the 18F26Q10. This runs at 64MHz internal but has many, many new features that that a bit of study to properly setup. One is the pps (Programmable Pin Selection). It also has lots of memory and is one of the least expensive 18F PICs. I also tend to the lower pin count PICs, 8, 18 or 28 pin. Very rare do I need more pins and do start with a spreadsheet of pin functions to decide which to use.
The others I have been playing with are the PIC32 series. Have code for a PIC32MX to do a PI detector. Analog hardware is only the TX pulse and RX preamp. Everything else is code. Then started using the PIC32MX---EF which runs at 200MHz and has DSP and Floating point hardware. Been working on a VLF detector where again only TX driver and RX preamp are in hardware.

I do use the latest MPLAB-X and C code for PIC18s and up. Still use assembler for the 16F PICs since these are slower and have smaller memory.

Yes, these two PICs (18F4520 and 18F45K22) are upwards compatible pin-wise, but that's about it. The internal registers and config bits are quite different.
I've been comparing the two datasheets, and also found this migration document -> http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/e...doc/39647a.pdf
The 18F45K20 is much more complicated than this project requires.

The 18F4520 ADCs are enabled in sequential blocks using ADCON1, whereas the 18F45K22 uses ADCON1 to set the positive and negative voltage references. The ADCs can also be enabled/disabled individually using the ANSEL registers (ANSELA to ANSELE).
The T0CON register appears to be unchanged, but T1CON is quite different. Timer1 has many more features than the the 18F4520.
I'm not certain from the datasheet, but it looks like writing to EEPROM is also affected.

I think there are too many differences between the two to just compile this blindly and hope for the best.

Yes, there will be many compile errors if only changing which PIC it builds. That is usually how I start a Port then go study data sheet and re-write the code that doesn't work.

If the original code was well written (like Eduardo's VDI code for the IDX & TGSL displays) in a modular form then porting is fairly easy.

[bernte_one]

i am curious about the coil datas

my copy of the book will arrive tomorrow,

[Qiaozhi]

Qiaozhi, could we get a full BOM please so we can source some of these parts thanks.

See post #1 ... Component Parts List has been added.

[ivconic]

If your board is from mikroe then it should be recognized by the mikroe IDE. You probably need to load a driver.
The Microchip PIC kits are no recognized either, so I use the Microchip X IPE to flash the PIC directly through the ICSP connector.

Update: Go to https://www.mikroe.com/ready-pic
and scroll to the bottom of the page. The bootloader software is there ... BUT - it only supports 16F877, 18F25K22, and 18F45K22.

Suggested driver is of an third party. CDM-2.08.28-WHQL-Certified1
Installed.
Still no recognition by the software, while at the same time mikroBootloader as integral part of the software is recognizing it and can flash the bootloader.
Go figure it!

[ivconic]

What's even worse; version of mikroC (V.6...) that i have here , is not able to compile simplest possible code example from the net ... ALSO shown there as example for mikroC.. but different version, reporting me lot of errors in a log.
Obviously they messed up big time.
While intern examples installed with package; are compiling alright.
Something you will not experience with Arduinos.
ISP will work i hope.
But also i have kind a luck having this development system which socket can take large number of those 40 pin chips.
It is having also ISP.
...
Pickit.. eh, i am "buying" it last 10 years. It is cheap, affordable, each local shop is having it. Still not bought it!
I even have project for diy Pickit. Cheaper and easier to buy original one.
Don't need it. Arduino can be used as ISP programmer too.
Will see.

[Qiaozhi]

Similar question:
why ...Tools-me Programmer F11... or mikroProg Suite is not recognizing this development board as well?
Since both (mikroBootloader and me Programmer) are parts of MikorC Pro for PIC software.
What kind of problem is this?
(that's why i don't like MikroE and their "philosophy" at all)
...
Probably driver for my development board? Which is? Where to find it? Not on MikroE site for sure!
So i have now all the products from the very same manufacturer and those are not recognizing each other!?
Pfffffff!

If your board is from mikroe then it should be recognized by the mikroe IDE. You probably need to load a driver.
The Microchip PIC kits are no recognized either, so I use the Microchip X IPE to flash the PIC directly through the ICSP connector.

Update: Go to https://www.mikroe.com/ready-pic
and scroll to the bottom of the page. The bootloader software is there ... BUT - it only supports 16F877, 18F25K22, and 18F45K22.

[eclipse]

It's very easy. I can use PicKit3 to load the hex with ICSP directly. Since I can't work with MIKROE stuff - I don't have it (it isn't free is it?) I won't be able to modify/compile it etc but probably not going to need as per first evaluation of the project. If the PIC is just used to generate timings and some simple operations for the DISC/ADC I can try to transfer the code to my PIC32 project (huge thanks to waltr!).
My book arrived today in the forwarding company in UK (free next day UK delivery) so I will get it next week at my place. I can't wait.

[ivconic]

I wonder how will majority of people here program the PIC for this project?
Deeper i get into information on PIC18f series; clearer to me that this is not simple task as with Arduinos.
Easiness would be the deciding key when pick mcu for the project like this.
FTDI adapter is not enough. PIC must have bootloader installed to accept such programming.
George... what was you thinking?
Now you are pushed to sell programmed chips as well!

[bernte_one]

Qiaozhi, could we get a full BOM please so we can source some of these parts thanks.

i guess a bom is in the book, and i think it makes no sense for george if he give all infos here in forum topic if he is interested to sell the book

i hope he can sell all, i think it is a fair price too (the production, storage and amazno fees will take a big part of the price)

[bernte_one]

@Bernte one,,,Which PCB Company did you order from? 10.60 euro is a good price! Regards, Marty.

try jlcpcb / easyeda it is my favourite

or search another one over
pcbshopper.com/

[6666]

Qiaozhi, could we get a full BOM please so we can source some of these parts thanks.