Originally posted by timekiller
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felezjoo PI(the best pulse induction metal detector that I made until now)
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You missed to read all the posts from the beginning, i explained that earlier.Originally posted by timekiller View PostHello again. My PI md works, after setting correct fuse bits .It works well with all my coils of previous projects. But there is a new problem, count of starts is not reset after reprogramming atmega 328p .It is against the following-At the end of 300 times,with a programming can be re-used again and again to set up the system. Doesthissoftware solution ?
Variables which are set and further changed by working code are stored in internal Atmega's eeprom (1kb).
So, to overcome that problem; you must erase eeprom content.
Simple reprogramming Atmega with hex code will not overcome the problem.
Erase internal eeprom.
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Low Fuse: F7 High Fuse: D9 Extended Fuse:FCOriginally posted by timekiller View PostHello again. My PI md works, after setting correct fuse bits .It works well with all my coils of previous projects. But there is a new problem, count of starts is not reset after reprogramming atmega 328p .It is against the following-At the end of 300 times,with a programming can be re-used again and again to set up the system. Doesthissoftware solution ?
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Either is broken either you swapped wires.Originally posted by jladre View PostAfter transfering all parts to my new easy open waterproof box my lcd seems damage. Can anyone tell what would be the problem? I had already check the wirings and it is good and correct. Lcd display photo is below.
[ATTACH]35630[/ATTACH]
Also check paths from Atmega to LCD.
Check all over again.
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Most probably it detached from its base. There are rubber-like contact ribbons that provide contact between a LCD base and a LCD glass, and those are notoriously flimsy. That's one of the reasons I hate LCDs for terrain use. You may try to fix it, but your better choice is to simply replace a whole LCD and avoid hours of frustration.
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it is called chicken code.hahaha
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