Originally posted by nick holas
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PICKINI V4 - an easy to build, self adjusting PI detector
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Yes, thanks for that. I made another one that turned out much better. I'm waiting for some .035" drill bits to drill the holes and then I'll etch it. I'll post a pic.
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Excellent, thank you for the reply and the pic, much appreciated.Originally posted by F117 View Post@geoscash1: looks promising !
You can connect a speaker between one of the 1K resistors and ground (left or right to middle pin).
You can decrease the 1K series resistor to achieve louder sound.
A typical 3.5 mm headphone jack has 3 connections: L, R and Gnd. They match directly to the 3 pin header on the board.
Picture of a 3.5 mm jack:
[ATTACH]37859[/ATTACH]
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@geoscash1: looks promising !
You can connect a speaker between one of the 1K resistors and ground (left or right to middle pin).speaker only have 2 wires and same for the headphone plug,
You can decrease the 1K series resistor to achieve louder sound.
A typical 3.5 mm headphone jack has 3 connections: L, R and Gnd. They match directly to the 3 pin header on the board.
Picture of a 3.5 mm jack:
Have a look at this picture:
Attached Files
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Boards ready for pic
Well, got my board soldered up and ready for the pic. Still waiting to get the pic chips in the mail. Will check or test the 12v and 5v portions of the board and then go from there.
Question,
On the audio, the board has 3 holes (pins for attaching), center one is ground, outer holes go to 1k resistors. How or which way is this connected up, I assume it is for headphone/speaker setup or am I missing something?
speaker only have 2 wires and same for the headphone plug, so am guessing it is designed to attach speaker to one side and headphone to the other with the middle pin being the common ground for both?
Any help with that is much appreciated
Geo
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Originally posted by Altair View PostHi folks,
I suggest you to take a look at this method:
Heatless (cold) Toner Transfer for PCB Making: Toner transfer method for making PC boards is very practical and economical. The use of heat for the transferring is not. Large boards expand with heat (more than the laser print) and heat is applied to the top of the toner and not to the bottom con…
I have obtained very good result with it.

Interesting thanks.
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Altair, that is a great instructable! I will definitely be trying that in the near future!!!!!

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Hi folks,
I suggest you to take a look at this method:
Heatless (cold) Toner Transfer for PCB Making: Toner transfer method for making PC boards is very practical and economical. The use of heat for the transferring is not. Large boards expand with heat (more than the laser print) and heat is applied to the top of the toner and not to the bottom con…
I have obtained very good result with it.
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hi all
hi morgatron
i made looooooots of experience with this methode and wants to share with u.
beware of the charpie pen it usualy take off during chemical reaction because acid,hot,and there s little bubble(mechanic action).if i was you ,i do it again .
as i so in 175 post ,you press too hard on your iron ,or it was too hot during too long period or bad toner quality (compatible cartridge are not the same quality of toner) and so your toner has dribbled.do it again it dont cost you a thing comparing the cost of blank pcb (personaly i use glossy photo paper or windows sticker film that blurr glass).
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For real small designs, just mark the 2.54mm pinholes, then join the dots with the sharpie.
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With a design that small, it must be easier to use stripboard.Originally posted by morganton View PostSo, I cleaned up the PCB with a Sharpie. I think I will try to etch it. I definitely had to fill in some traces.
[ATTACH]37851[/ATTACH]
Thanks Tim. It is certainly a learning process.
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Nothing ventured, nothing gained morganton!
A couple of considerations- 5 minutes is possibly too long. Once the heat has transferred through to the copper that should be enough-say 30-60 seconds. It does look like the toner has smudged somewhat... I am using toner transfer paper off ebay. I tried with glossy paper, thinking I needed the cheap, floppy catalogue type. It was a disaster. In retrospect, the better quality glossy paper used for tourist brochures etc. may be better, allowing it to be carefully peeled off. Yes, with the catalogue paper I soaked, but in cold water, the delicately brushed it off. But still had some peeling at the edges. I read somewhere the trick (with the thicker glossy) was to place the copper/paper in the freezer for 10 minutes, then carefully peel off. The first step is to get the copper impeccably clean. I use a new green scourer and detergent to remove any oily residue, then the green scourer and rain (or distilled) water.
If you are not happy with your transfer result, it can easily be removed with acetone.
Also i bought a small drill press for an electric drill. I use .8mm bits for most holes, and 1mm for larger legs, with the PCB on a block of wood. Previously, drilling by hand, I centre-punched the holes, but using the press it was easier not to, as any mis-alignment caused the hole to be drilled totally out of the centre-punch divet.
Good luck. I am sure you will perfect it.
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Morgwnton sir, you may get more greater result with cheap thin photo paper and laser printer, difer toner difer result, just iron for one or two minutes let it cold and peal with water.
Sample

Here are better pdf ready to print, size A4Attached Files
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Transferring Circuit Image to PCB
I have to say that I'm surprised at how easy it is to transfer images to a PCB. This was my first try using an iron and I think it will be useable after filling in with a Sharpie.
I fed a glossy page from a NY Times magazine that we get with the Sunday paper through my laser printer and printed the Pickini pdf file from here: http://www.geotech1.com/forums/attac...4&d=1476693260 I scaled the image at 50% which seems to be about the right size for the DIP adaptor.
I "ironed" it for about five minutes on the highest heat setting and then placed the new PCB in some hot water and let it soak for about three minutes. Then I peeled the paper off and finished cleaning it with a toothbrush. After I finish the PCB image, I'm going to try and etch it with vinegar/hydrogen peroxide. So far the cost of this is $0 because I already had the copper.
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