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TESORO GOLDEN SABRE
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I have read that 10K to 1K per inch is a good range. Lower will reduce your signal a bit...
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As I wait for parts I was experimenting with coil shielding.
I added 2 layers of electric tape to coils - one (rubbery) loosely and one (normal) tighter and then medical (paper) tape.
On that I applied shielding paste.
Got some graphite (dust) (50g) and used it with "paint" (boat varnish) and applied it to coils.
It is thick layer and it is about 2k from end to end of D shape...
between measurement points is 2 cm gap.
Copper connecting wire was installed before and it is connected good for shield.
Is it too low resistance for shielding ?
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I had similar problem with my old tgsl.
FETS were turned 180 deg (american version fets) but it worked with 15 cm max detection.
Tried changing pots as one was burning few days ago - it is not that.
Tried changing cables for pots and disc switch... also nothing.
Will try chasing TX now. probably opamp but ... it is "working" with larger targets
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Most likely you blew one of the FETs but it's funny Disc still works.
I'd check the power (+ and -), the TX and then the two chains
while waving a target to see if one opamp output got popped.
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Today I went on hunt with my TGSL and got some silver (from 1594) but I have broken disc switch ...
and then it fell back on rest of PCB connecting something...
(I detect in all metal mode and switch to disc to find if it is iron or not every time)
Now I have replaced switch but I have only disc part working OK ... 30-35 cm coin and all
rejection of iron, foil and that it OK.
On all metal I have only brokend sound and less sensitivity ... only detects large metal and very close to coil.
Don't have many parts on hand now and need some idea of what to look for or change.
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Such parts were once (still?) available from a big electronic company in the UK, RS Components.....
If they do not have them (no idea!) maybe Maplin can help.
For other countries I have no idea, sorry.
I always used bits or wire when I could not use a component to make the connection....never had problems...
Regards
Andy
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"Even having boards made, money can be possibly saved by not having the vias, though for one offs, the savings would be probably quite small. I have never had professional boards, "made", only simply bought "their" finished product!! Just a thought though!!"
Years ago the technicians at Marconi used small rivet like parts to repair damaged vias.
They were tubular with a washer like end. You drilled out the via and removed the resist top and bottom. Insert the via rivet and solder the washer end.
Filp, and open out the tube with a center punch and solder it.
A bit of bare tinned copper would be similar, but they were simple and effective and reliable enough to pass CAA air worthiness regs.
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Today I had few seconds of smoke from detector - connected body of two pots and body of disc switch ...
Box is not metal so I wanted to ground them.
Lucky me ... it was not burned and other components did not burn too.
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hello paku
you can write in signature for example
"if you read this, you can be sure you have reached end" or so ha ha
so go on i am on soldering smal smd bugs at first last nights my eyes burn now
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ok i will apologise
because misunderstood
sorry bro
now see dont have signature
its funny now
hahahahah
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Some people.....
You not funny, you very UNfunny!!Originally posted by paku View Postjust about signature
Hahahah Funny That Man

You did not understand what you were sending till around 4 posts telling you that it was rude????
I hope that we see some improvements in "speed".....
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Originally posted by Qiaozhi View PostPaku - I think he doesn't like the comment you have at the bottom of all your posts: "when you read this you will know you are lying people".
I personally don't understand what you intend by this message, but I agree with der_fisherman that it is very rude.
Please can you remove it.
Great work. Hopefully it only gets better now
Many thanks and Regards
Andy
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