If it's already constrained with wire or if you use double sided jig, the value will stay almost the same. Maybe you could remove 1 or 2 turns, but there is no need to aim for the exact 6.5mH value.
The TGSL will accept some variations.
As explained in this thread, in the worst case, if you are really too far away from the recommended values, you'll have to change the oscillator's capacitor to adjust it to your inductance.
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I am making coil for TGSL EDU.
Wound 107 turns on coil jig... standard dimensions from manual for TGSL Coil making
255x137 mm
0.25mm copper anameled wire
I have inductance of 6.53 mH and resistance of 27 ohms.
It is still on jig.
Is that OK ?
Can I remove it and get going with isolation and shielding ?
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That would depend mostly on your sweeping speed. However, if you go for larger capacitors it is highly advisable to replace the op amps in gain blocks with some FET input ones that have better 1/f noise performance, otherwise you'll have a lot of chatters (that are mostly due to the low frequency noise/fluctuation)
At detektorforum.de some people noticed improvement when two back to back capacitors are replaced with non polarised caps.
IMHO it is OK to go for lower HPF cut off, as the only drawbacks are 1/f noise and slower settling at power on. The 1/f problem is fixed with a better op amp, say TLC072, or even TL072. When redesigning for low speed motion make sure you also replace the 0.47uF capacitors with 1uF or so. You are hardly going to find plastic capacitors at "normal" physical size at values larger than 1uF though.
With slow motion sweep you are NOT losing anything at faster sweeping as the low pass cut off remains the same.
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Thanks Davor - inevitable questions for this drawing..Originally posted by Davor View PostI've got only the jpg version. For simple drawings jpg is a very bad format because it is not scalable due to the artefacts that prevent enlargement and produce jagged edges. Gif and png are much better. they also produce ~10 times smaller files, clear win-win
The post det Filter Caps say 22uF (2off back to back to make a 10uF)
whereas
The note says or 4u7 non polarised.
Would you know whether the ~5 or the 10 uF is most appropriate.
S
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I've got only the jpg version. For simple drawings jpg is a very bad format because it is not scalable due to the artefacts that prevent enlargement and produce jagged edges. Gif and png are much better. they also produce ~10 times smaller files, clear win-winAttached Files
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Originally posted by golfnut View PostAll its clear there is 2 types of TGSL. Both have slightly different parts.
Quiazi put the ivconic Version 3 info on a thread, so we can all see this.
The EduARDO VERSION SOLD at Silverdog - I cant find the correct schematic for this.
If there is no schematic for TGLS EDU, fine. - - - Then what are the exact difference between IVcon TGSL and Edu TGSL
(Silverdog has IGSL schematic for TGSL EDU, whoa come on guys)
S
Hi, I want to build a metal detector on the first scheme. (TesorroGoldensabrezelfbouw1.zip (672.5 KB, 16954 views) it works well?
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All its clear there is 2 types of TGSL. Both have slightly different parts.
Quiazi put the ivconic Version 3 info on a thread, so we can all see this.
The EduARDO VERSION SOLD at Silverdog - I cant find the correct schematic for this.
If there is no schematic for TGLS EDU, fine. - - - Then what are the exact difference between IVcon TGSL and Edu TGSL
(Silverdog has IGSL schematic for TGSL EDU, whoa come on guys)
S
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Thanks, that's more acceptable, in electronics when You see +-12V it means it is 12+12V minus to plus short and other free ends give 24v, shorted end is referent and between that and any other is +12 or -12V
Thanks 4 quick response
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Hi Zoomtronic,
-12V is connected to the negative of the battery, it's the ground.
Happy building, TGSL is just an amazing detector to use, even compared to some commercial and actual ones.
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Hi, Paku and Constantin, you should search a little more in the forum.
the answer is just 2 pages ago:
as explained here, install everything in a housing (ideally metal one), be sure to avoid the contact between the circuit board and the housing.Originally posted by satdaveuk View PostHi
All you need to do now is install the electronics into a metal housing make sure there is good bonding from earth to coil plug and pots and all should work well.
Connect the metal housing of the switches and potentiometers to the ground and you will be fine.
if your switch and potentiometers didn't come with something to connect them to ground, you can still use something like this:
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