TESORO GOLDEN SABRE

[Cyclonite]

It's there.
Note new file type (rar) is now available.

@Qiaozhi,

Thank you very much, this is certainly a welcome addition to the boards Attachment Management

For those who are interested in PCB manufacturing done by the professionals, in the Quote Link --> given below, you will find the best reference in the field for over 30 years! An eBook with a whopping 1632 pages, including bookmarks in PDF-format.

Printed Circuits Handbook - 6th Edition - By Clyde F. Coombs (2008 )

The World's #1 Guide to Printed Circuit Boards, the best reference in the field for over 30 years!

Interesting however, is a small bug that does not allow an "8" to be proceeded by a ")"

Look what happens:
Printed Circuits Handbook - 6th Edition - By Clyde F. Coombs (200

And now spaced, and there is no more smiley:
Printed Circuits Handbook - 6th Edition - By Clyde F. Coombs (2008 )

I also have found a few Treasure Hunting/Metal Detecting eBooks, ... but where should I put them ?

Regards,

Robert

[dfbowers]

Corrected one line.. U104 and U105 should be a TL071AN or LM308N.

Don

[Qiaozhi]

It's there.
Note new file type (rar) is now available.

[Qiaozhi]

Good work guys, much appreciated by all TGSL beginners. Would also be interesting to explore all the parts substitutions that will work reasonably well, this is a start.

Maybe Qiaozhi can attach this to that TGS final thread/message he set up.

-SB

As I was downloading this information, I was actually thinking it would be a good idea to add it to the TGSL final thread.

I'll let you know when it's there!

[simonbaker]

Good work guys, much appreciated by all TGSL beginners. Would also be interesting to explore all the parts substitutions that will work reasonably well, this is a start.

Maybe Qiaozhi can attach this to that TGS final thread/message he set up.

-SB

[Cyclonite]

TGSL - Datasheets of Components

Uploading attachments indeed help!

All Datasheets of Active Components used in the TGSL as described by @Ivconic in his compiled project (see link on previous page) are presented here as Attachment.

Due to the fact that Board restrictions do not permit RAR-Part Files (or even RAR-Files), and also not ZIP-Files of more than 1MB in size, I had to pack the RAR-Part Files into separate ZIP-Files. But no worries here, for ZIP-Files can also be opened with WinRAR. What you will have to do is; put all 7 Files into one Folder, then "extract here" all selected ZIP-Files in one go, and then do the same with RAR-Part1 File.

Voilà, a miracle has just occurred, and you did not even need Dowsing Rods to perform it

Enjoy!

Robert

[dfbowers]

Uploading attachments help!

[dfbowers]

Orderable parts list for TGSL

One of the toughest parts of a project can be ordering all parts. Below is a list of parts that I used for my last TGSL project. Everything works as advertised. Parts match the layout above. The only exception would be that I used J107 for BF247C and TL071 for LM308.

Don

[Cyclonite]

EDIT!

I forgot to attach the Edited PDF Version of the Placement OC.pdf file (named: Placement OC (Edited).pdf). This file has compatible circumference to the PCB.pdf file, and has now been added as attachment together with the original version from @Ivconic as comparison.

I apologize for this mishap!

Regards,

Robert

Attachment:

Placement OC (Edited).pdf = Edited Placement OC.pdf file (JPG example given below)
Placement OC.pdf = Original version from @Ivconic
PCB.pdf = Original version from @Ivconic

[Cyclonite]

Edited Placement OC

For those of You who would like to Print the Components on the TGSL PCB, You may now also chose for the slightly Edited Version in which the Outer Lines have been Erased.

The Original Working TGSL Project can be found here:

TGSL - Complete Details, posted by @Qiaozhi's and Designed by @Ivconic:

http://www.geotech1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15710

Originally in PDF-Format, and now in JPG-Format !

Original Placement OC by @Ivconic



Edited Placement OC




With kind regards,

Robert

Placement OC in JPG-Format.zip

[Cyclonite]

Cyclonite,

Thank you for the information! I have a Harbour Freight about 2 miles away.

Don

@dfbowers,

You are welcome!

And how about a Scrapyard!

Or you may become a Dumpster Diver like me It's rewarding, fun, and an excellent source in finding the right equipment and materials really cheep.

Cheers!

Robert

[dfbowers]

Cyclonite,

Thank you for the information! I have a Harbour Freight about 2 miles away.

Don

[Cyclonite]

Wonderful work @dfbowers !

Here you have an eBook written by Vinvent J. Ginger about a DIY Plastic Vacuum Forming Machine, which may be of interest to those who would want to build there own Coil Housing.

Also, thank you very much to all who have participated in Designing and Refining the Tesoro Golden Sabre Metal Detector.

Excellent Job!

The Refined and Working Finished Project by @Ivconic can be found here:

TGSL - Complete Details, posted by @Qiaozhi's and Designed by @Ivconic:

http://www.geotech1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15710

And here you have the eBook:

Secrets of Building a Plastic Vacuum Forming Machine - By Vincent R. Gingery (1999)



* Author: Vincent R. Gingery
* Publisher: D.J. Gingery
* Number Of Pages: 106
* Publication Date: 1999-07
* ISBN / ASIN: 1878087223
* EAN: 9781878087225
* Binding: Paperback
* Manufacturer: D.J. Gingery
* Format: PDF (OCRed)
* Size: 4.13 MB

Description by Vince Gingery:

Geez... you should see the samples of vacuum forming Vince sent me! I can show you a photo but until you hold the formed sheet in your hand you don't know how powerful this thing is. It's professional quality. And you can build it for far less than you can buy a machine. And since Vince will reveal his experiences, you should be able to adapt the design and scale it up or down. The best way to describe the machine is to let Vince do the talking:



"The machine is built almost entirely of angle iron and flat bar. Construction is simple, with some welding being required. Being built on wheels makes the machine easy to move from place to place. It has a unique clamp frame that works very well and the adjustable work surface (platen) is a real asset. The machine has a 12" x 15" forming area, and I have formed ABS plastic up to 3/16" thick with it. I believe the machine would form 1/4" as well. Of course, thicker plastic takes longer to reach forming temperature.

The machine operates on a 20 amp 120 volt circuit using a 1500 watt, 120 volt heating element. Temperature is controlled by an infinite range switch mounted in the control panel. Everything required to build the machine is easy to find except for the 120 volt heating element. It's an oven replacement element, and ... will sell for around $30.00 plus shipping...



The vacuum for the machine can be supplied by either an air venturi pump or electric vacuum pump in conjunction with two storage tanks. I am mentioning the air venturi pump as one alternative because it's so cheap. Only $12.99 through Harbor Freight and it pulls 4.2 cfm per minute taking about 4 minutes to pull a 25 kg vacuum on my two 11 gallon tanks. Not too shabby for the price. In order to use it though, you need to have an air compressor capable of maintaining 90 psi.. The other and better alternative is an electric vacuum pump. The electric pump I have pulls 6 cfm taking about 2 minutes to pull a 25 kg vacuum. Although twice as fast, the electric pump costs close to $300.00."

You oughta have a copy of this... for your reference library if nothing else!

Note by @Cyclonite:

You can also use an old Refrigerator Motor as Vacuum Pump, connected to a Buffer Cylinder for fast release of Vacuum Pressure. These Refrigerator Motor Pumps work slow, so you will have to suck a Buffer Cylinder vacuum (empty CO2 Fire Extinguisher etc.) for use with large cavity suction products. The faster you can suck a vacuum, the less heat you will have to expose your plastic forming material to.

Download (RARed 3.80 MB):

Secrets of Building a Plastic Vacuum Forming Machine - By Vincent R. Gingery (David J. Gingery Publishing LLC - 1999) 56s (d).pdf

iFile.it Download Link:

http://ifile.it/td75bo4

or (optional)

MegaUpload Download Link:

http://www.megaupload.com/?d=JP2EVEO7

No Password Required !

Enjoy !

Robert

[simonbaker]

It is the basicschematic TGS without notch part. The values of the components respected the original unit except TIS75, it's a 2n4393. The PCB is modified ivconic's 1265 pcb to match the original scheme. Coil by "TGSL - complete details". Coil nulled on pin 7 LF353 with DMM. On 1 € in air 36-38cm. Now, after my mistake about 28cm. I mistakenly merged pin3 and pin4 on the lower LM308. Currently I am not in a position to make some photos or video clips. Perhaps in these days later. Before the problem occurred there was very little instability when the pot of the sensitivity set to max, now it's all quiet and sensitivity is much weaker.

Need clearer explanation...

Did you get 36-38 cm (seriously?!) before, or after soldering (merging) pin3 and pin4 together? Which way is better?

And can't you just unsolder the pins?

Regards,

-SB

[0cool]

Please give a complete description of your project; what schematic; what pcb; photos of your PCB (both sides) and your coil; how you built coil; coil parameters (size, resistances, inductances); how you nulled the coil; any parts substitutions?

What air distance can you detect at? What do you use for target (1 Euro coin is best)?

A video with sound of your air tests with 1 euro coin might be helpful.

Regards,

-SB

It is the basicschematic TGS without notch part. The values of the components respected the original unit except TIS75, it's a 2n4393. The PCB is modified ivconic's 1265 pcb to match the original scheme. Coil by "TGSL - complete details". Coil nulled on pin 7 LF353 with DMM. On 1 € in air 36-38cm. Now, after my mistake about 28cm. I mistakenly merged pin3 and pin4 on the lower LM308. Currently I am not in a position to make some photos or video clips. Perhaps in these days later. Before the problem occurred there was very little instability when the pot of the sensitivity set to max, now it's all quiet and sensitivity is much weaker.