Originally posted by golfnut
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See what your saying. But seeing as I have two coils here that work properly I am guessing the problems I am having are my own doing with my homemade coils. Would like to know how the factory coil is wired as there is high ohms between both TX and TX and shield and the connector is also connected the the shield (is that just a short from the shield pin or separate in the coil end)
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Nice and quick test. I will do this first but out all day today will post results.Originally posted by Silver Dollar View PostMy guess is your Mylar is discontinuous. Any part that is not connected to the drain wire will act
as a cap and pick up noise. Try wrapping kitchen foil around the outside of the coil temporarily
and ground that. If it solves your problem the mylar is the fault...
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Tried USB2 (branded) but now on good quality mic cable at the moment. Known to work according to MD4U.RU forumOriginally posted by der_fisherman View PostI personally use only 2 core cable with shield, one cable per coil......shields connected to the central earthing point on the PCB, nowhere else.....but thats just me.
I have never ever attempted to use USB cable as some are of very poor quality I am told....
Hopefully one of the experts will chime in with some good information....that info about mylar is very interesting and possibly helpful. How did you connect the mylar to the cable shield? Did you measure at the break point that it was continuous, using an Ohmmeter?
regards
Andy
Even without the tap wire it is continuous using an multi meter
Tried only connecting to one point. Difference could be that I am using a metal box that's grounded (technically - rail) to the PCB POTs and connector. Maybe I need to insulate the coil connector however the factory coil works fine
Looking forward to sorting this but out all today detecting.
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When stuff is that lively it can be things oscillating, out of band. It could be daft stuff like the audio amp oscillating at low RF.
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I personally use only 2 core cable with shield, one cable per coil......shields connected to the central earthing point on the PCB, nowhere else.....but thats just me.Originally posted by Koala View PostCheers
Only using 4 core cable with screen. People have had success using USB2 cable which does not have enough cores for separate earths ?
Getting somewhere but don't know where.
Disconnected the shield at the coil and there is no noticeable difference looks like it could be a cable connection fault
With no coil installed you can touch the metal case and threshold does not alter. Same with factory coil.
But when I install my coil threshold changes if I touch the metal case or the headphone cable.
Not 100% sure how the cable connector should be connected check the original but it's been potted.
I have never ever attempted to use USB cable as some are of very poor quality I am told....
Hopefully one of the experts will chime in with some good information....that info about mylar is very interesting and possibly helpful. How did you connect the mylar to the cable shield? Did you measure at the break point that it was continuous, using an Ohmmeter?
regards
Andy
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Ive done this foil trick in emc work in test houses for radiated sprious emissions for some well known brands,
it just lets u rule stuff out quick
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My guess is your Mylar is discontinuous. Any part that is not connected to the drain wire will act
as a cap and pick up noise. Try wrapping kitchen foil around the outside of the coil temporarily
and ground that. If it solves your problem the mylar is the fault...
Leave a comment:
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Cheers
Only using 4 core cable with screen. People have had success using USB2 cable which does not have enough cores for separate earths ?
Getting somewhere but don't know where.
Disconnected the shield at the coil and there is no noticeable difference looks like it could be a cable connection fault
With no coil installed you can touch the metal case and threshold does not alter. Same with factory coil.
But when I install my coil threshold changes if I touch the metal case or the headphone cable.
Not 100% sure how the cable connector should be connected check the original but it's been potted.
Leave a comment:
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Did you try running both shields to the electronics (no short between them and not connected to the coils) and connecting them at the correct point(s) on your PCB. believe that was the advice from someone on either TGSL or IGSL at some point. I also used it on several home builds made over the years. HiFi systems use the same method to increase stability and reduce interference. One central earthing point....Originally posted by Koala View PostTried both the TX and RX just to the cable shield
Tried both the TX and RX to both the earth side of the RX and the cable shield (Exactly the same)
at the connector end I have tried both with and without the connector shell connected (original has cable shield to connector shield)
In all metal mode it depends which part of the coil is touched as to weather the threshold goes up or down.
Also, the width of the "gap" is important, I use about 1 cm, but I am far from being an expert on this point and I would refer you to the experts here.....not me!!
There is somewhere here an excellent .pdf from dbowers, that is well worth reading for any VLF build of "D" coils....but could not find it anywhere, but someone will know exactly where it can be found. Read that fully, both parts I & II....You will love it.....Look here:-
regards
Andy
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Tried both the TX and RX just to the cable shield
Tried both the TX and RX to both the earth side of the RX and the cable shield (Exactly the same)
at the connector end I have tried both with and without the connector shell connected (original has cable shield to connector shield)
In all metal mode it depends which part of the coil is touched as to weather the threshold goes up or down.
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Exactly how did you connect the grounds and where?Originally posted by Koala View PostStill got problems.
Started again.
Wound a new RX and TX
Two layers of PVC tape
layer of space blanket conductive side up left gap
Wind spiral tap wire
Two layer of PVC tap
Same problem on contact with the windings.
Test okay on the bench but anything touching the PVC causes a false signal.
Shielding works as far as a charge near the coil. Unshielded blowing over the coil would cause it to false now very stable.
Have noticed that after touching the windings it takes a second to settle again.
Tried adding some extra insulation between the RX and TX no difference
Re wired the plug
Running out of ideas.
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Tried every combination I can think ofOriginally posted by Silver Dollar View Post
The factory Tesoso's seem to tie the Shield to TX minus although on my new Deep Search it is
totally seperate. How do you have the grounds in your coil wired?
Would like to know how others have succeeded
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Well all the factory coils I have seen use graphite to shield. It forms a resistive barrier
as opposed to a conductive one. So it drains the charge better. The idea with a conductive
one is to show the coil a uniform capacitance so external changes are not seen.
Others seem to have had no problem with conductive shields. I have a coil I made with al foil
shield but haven't been able to make it stable.
The factory Tesoso's seem to tie the Shield to TX minus although on my new Deep Search it is
totally seperate. How do you have the grounds in your coil wired?
It looks like 22m is the coupling from shield to ground in that coil, maybe try a 20 meg resistor
from shield to ground? It might drain the charge and act like resistive shielding?
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I have two factory coils and they work fine. Mine you that does not necessarily mean too much as they are wired slightly differentOriginally posted by golfnut View PostYou mentioned that your original coil is falsing and you suspect it has gone bad.
New coil attempts false also.
Is it possible its something in your IDX?
Both of the two I have just made behave the same. Was very careful with the shield on the second one yet identical.
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.i am very happy!,only tricky part is shield Concentric coil
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