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  • Koala
    replied
    Originally posted by golfnut View Post
    When stuff is that lively it can be things oscillating, out of band. It could be daft stuff like the audio amp oscillating at low RF.
    See what your saying. But seeing as I have two coils here that work properly I am guessing the problems I am having are my own doing with my homemade coils. Would like to know how the factory coil is wired as there is high ohms between both TX and TX and shield and the connector is also connected the the shield (is that just a short from the shield pin or separate in the coil end)

    Leave a comment:


  • Koala
    replied
    Originally posted by Silver Dollar View Post
    My guess is your Mylar is discontinuous. Any part that is not connected to the drain wire will act
    as a cap and pick up noise. Try wrapping kitchen foil around the outside of the coil temporarily
    and ground that. If it solves your problem the mylar is the fault...
    Nice and quick test. I will do this first but out all day today will post results.

    Leave a comment:


  • Koala
    replied
    Originally posted by der_fisherman View Post
    I personally use only 2 core cable with shield, one cable per coil......shields connected to the central earthing point on the PCB, nowhere else.....but thats just me.

    I have never ever attempted to use USB cable as some are of very poor quality I am told....

    Hopefully one of the experts will chime in with some good information....that info about mylar is very interesting and possibly helpful. How did you connect the mylar to the cable shield? Did you measure at the break point that it was continuous, using an Ohmmeter?

    regards

    Andy
    Tried USB2 (branded) but now on good quality mic cable at the moment. Known to work according to MD4U.RU forum

    Even without the tap wire it is continuous using an multi meter

    Tried only connecting to one point. Difference could be that I am using a metal box that's grounded (technically - rail) to the PCB POTs and connector. Maybe I need to insulate the coil connector however the factory coil works fine

    Looking forward to sorting this but out all today detecting.

    Leave a comment:


  • golfnut
    replied
    When stuff is that lively it can be things oscillating, out of band. It could be daft stuff like the audio amp oscillating at low RF.

    Leave a comment:


  • der_fisherman
    replied
    Originally posted by Koala View Post
    Cheers

    Only using 4 core cable with screen. People have had success using USB2 cable which does not have enough cores for separate earths ?
    Getting somewhere but don't know where.
    Disconnected the shield at the coil and there is no noticeable difference looks like it could be a cable connection fault
    With no coil installed you can touch the metal case and threshold does not alter. Same with factory coil.
    But when I install my coil threshold changes if I touch the metal case or the headphone cable.
    Not 100% sure how the cable connector should be connected check the original but it's been potted.
    I personally use only 2 core cable with shield, one cable per coil......shields connected to the central earthing point on the PCB, nowhere else.....but thats just me.

    I have never ever attempted to use USB cable as some are of very poor quality I am told....

    Hopefully one of the experts will chime in with some good information....that info about mylar is very interesting and possibly helpful. How did you connect the mylar to the cable shield? Did you measure at the break point that it was continuous, using an Ohmmeter?

    regards

    Andy
    Last edited by der_fisherman; 07-19-2014, 03:15 PM. Reason: additions

    Leave a comment:


  • golfnut
    replied
    Ive done this foil trick in emc work in test houses for radiated sprious emissions for some well known brands,

    it just lets u rule stuff out quick

    Leave a comment:


  • Silver Dollar
    replied
    My guess is your Mylar is discontinuous. Any part that is not connected to the drain wire will act
    as a cap and pick up noise. Try wrapping kitchen foil around the outside of the coil temporarily
    and ground that. If it solves your problem the mylar is the fault...

    Leave a comment:


  • Koala
    replied
    Cheers

    Only using 4 core cable with screen. People have had success using USB2 cable which does not have enough cores for separate earths ?

    Getting somewhere but don't know where.

    Disconnected the shield at the coil and there is no noticeable difference looks like it could be a cable connection fault

    With no coil installed you can touch the metal case and threshold does not alter. Same with factory coil.
    But when I install my coil threshold changes if I touch the metal case or the headphone cable.


    Not 100% sure how the cable connector should be connected check the original but it's been potted.

    Leave a comment:


  • der_fisherman
    replied
    Originally posted by Koala View Post
    Tried both the TX and RX just to the cable shield
    Tried both the TX and RX to both the earth side of the RX and the cable shield (Exactly the same)

    at the connector end I have tried both with and without the connector shell connected (original has cable shield to connector shield)


    In all metal mode it depends which part of the coil is touched as to weather the threshold goes up or down.
    Did you try running both shields to the electronics (no short between them and not connected to the coils) and connecting them at the correct point(s) on your PCB. believe that was the advice from someone on either TGSL or IGSL at some point. I also used it on several home builds made over the years. HiFi systems use the same method to increase stability and reduce interference. One central earthing point....
    Also, the width of the "gap" is important, I use about 1 cm, but I am far from being an expert on this point and I would refer you to the experts here.....not me!!
    There is somewhere here an excellent .pdf from dbowers, that is well worth reading for any VLF build of "D" coils....but could not find it anywhere, but someone will know exactly where it can be found. Read that fully, both parts I & II....You will love it.....Look here:-

    regards
    Andy
    Last edited by der_fisherman; 07-19-2014, 11:23 AM. Reason: added link

    Leave a comment:


  • Koala
    replied
    Tried both the TX and RX just to the cable shield
    Tried both the TX and RX to both the earth side of the RX and the cable shield (Exactly the same)

    at the connector end I have tried both with and without the connector shell connected (original has cable shield to connector shield)


    In all metal mode it depends which part of the coil is touched as to weather the threshold goes up or down.

    Leave a comment:


  • der_fisherman
    replied
    Originally posted by Koala View Post
    Still got problems.

    Started again.

    Wound a new RX and TX

    Two layers of PVC tape

    layer of space blanket conductive side up left gap

    Wind spiral tap wire

    Two layer of PVC tap

    Same problem on contact with the windings.

    Test okay on the bench but anything touching the PVC causes a false signal.

    Shielding works as far as a charge near the coil. Unshielded blowing over the coil would cause it to false now very stable.

    Have noticed that after touching the windings it takes a second to settle again.

    Tried adding some extra insulation between the RX and TX no difference

    Re wired the plug

    Running out of ideas.
    Exactly how did you connect the grounds and where?

    Leave a comment:


  • Koala
    replied
    Originally posted by Silver Dollar View Post

    The factory Tesoso's seem to tie the Shield to TX minus although on my new Deep Search it is
    totally seperate. How do you have the grounds in your coil wired?
    Tried every combination I can think of

    Would like to know how others have succeeded

    Leave a comment:


  • Silver Dollar
    replied
    Well all the factory coils I have seen use graphite to shield. It forms a resistive barrier
    as opposed to a conductive one. So it drains the charge better. The idea with a conductive
    one is to show the coil a uniform capacitance so external changes are not seen.

    Others seem to have had no problem with conductive shields. I have a coil I made with al foil
    shield but haven't been able to make it stable.

    The factory Tesoso's seem to tie the Shield to TX minus although on my new Deep Search it is
    totally seperate. How do you have the grounds in your coil wired?

    It looks like 22m is the coupling from shield to ground in that coil, maybe try a 20 meg resistor
    from shield to ground? It might drain the charge and act like resistive shielding?

    Leave a comment:


  • Koala
    replied
    Originally posted by golfnut View Post
    You mentioned that your original coil is falsing and you suspect it has gone bad.

    New coil attempts false also.



    Is it possible its something in your IDX?
    I have two factory coils and they work fine. Mine you that does not necessarily mean too much as they are wired slightly different

    Both of the two I have just made behave the same. Was very careful with the shield on the second one yet identical.

    Leave a comment:


  • seadoggy
    replied
    Originally posted by Koala View Post
    Well done looks very professional.

    Are you happy with its performance.
    Thx .i am very happy!,only tricky part is shield Concentric coil i spend alot time to get good shield.

    Leave a comment:

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