Arduino Nano PI Main Discussion

[Rzouga]

Hi to all,

Finally had the opportunity to spend some time on the project, followed step by step the guidelines from the book and the videos from Surfdetector, and everything was working as expected since the first time!
Rest to do some adjustments as I used a coil from a previous project and I don't trust the damping resistor to be 100% suitable (but close enough).

I have to say that using an oscilloscope made the construction be much more easier and faster, and that people who don't have one would need to be patient on the task.

I used a BC517 instead of the MPSA13, and three 10Ohm resistors in parallel to substitute R3 (as I couldn't find a 3R3 resistance with the right power dissipation)

Thank you George Overton for this adventure, Surfdetector for your dedication to provide very explanatory videos, and to everyone contributing to this forum

[Emersonpaz]

Waiting for the plates, I placed an order at JLCPCB, I will start this project

[ionut_mtb]

I will answer myself to this as i tested one working board of surf pi analogic. Yes, without osc from from arduino (7660 pin 7) -5v will not work.

[ionut_mtb]

Long story short magic smoke came on this project, had to remove the nano as was hot every time, changed also 7660. Without arduino, i supplied 5v to 7660 and 12v to board but i don’t have -5v to output. I have 0.5v. It need to have also osc connected to work?

[Qiaozhi]

I see now what I have done wrong! Ihe input of the voltage inverter at pin 8 is the regulated +5V from the Arduino. Before having the book, I started to explore the LT1054 and had it configured as a voltage inverter and regulator itself or as a voltage inverter only with help of external voltage regulators. The input was in these cases the +12V of the battery. Looking at diagram 2-2 again (with glasses this time) the input of the voltage inverter at pin 8 reads V+ (and not +12V). V+ is the regulated output (+5V) of the Arduino.

Thanks Qiaozhi

I was wondering if that might be the problem.
Initially I assumed you were using the "official" PCB.

https://diydetector.co.uk/store/index.php?id_category=11&controller=category

[Rodion]

I see now what I have done wrong! Ihe input of the voltage inverter at pin 8 is the regulated +5V from the Arduino. Before having the book, I started to explore the LT1054 and had it configured as a voltage inverter and regulator itself or as a voltage inverter only with help of external voltage regulators. The input was in these cases the +12V of the battery. Looking at diagram 2-2 again (with glasses this time) the input of the voltage inverter at pin 8 reads V+ (and not +12V). V+ is the regulated output (+5V) of the Arduino.

Thanks Qiaozhi

[Qiaozhi]

Dear folks,

I also ordered the Nano book and build the power supply accordingly (fig 2-2) but with a LT1054 instead. The voltage between TP1 and TP3 measures however -12V. The Arduino has the programm running. There are no other parts connected. Should I change some capacitors or add components like a 79L05 to get -5V?

Thanks in advance,

Richard

I'm not sure how you can have -12V at TP3 when the input voltage is +5V.
As surfdetector says, check the voltage at pin 8.

[surfdetector]

Dear folks,

I also ordered the Nano book and build the power supply accordingly (fig 2-2) but with a LT1054 instead. The voltage between TP1 and TP3 measures however -12V. The Arduino has the programm running. There are no other parts connected. Should I change some capacitors or add components like a 79L05 to get -5V?

Thanks in advance,

Richard

What voltage do you have at pin 8 of the LT1054?

You might benefit from watching my build videos of this project:

https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLgBlcFVgN7pREMVahftvygh0x9WRf4jag

[Rodion]

Dear folks,

I also ordered the Nano book and build the power supply accordingly (fig 2-2) but with a LT1054 instead. The voltage between TP1 and TP3 measures however -12V. The Arduino has the programm running. There are no other parts connected. Should I change some capacitors or add components like a 79L05 to get -5V?

Thanks in advance,

Richard

[bklein]

I had loaded that (megaAVR) from the start. I had watched the video noted above where he said to do it.

[surfdetector]

I Googled it and the Every has way different timers. Several people having the same issue with no fix. Don’t buy one for this project.

Some may find this to be of interest:

https://github.com/Kees-van-der-Oord/Arduino-Nano-Every-Timer-Controller-B

[bklein]

I Googled it and the Every has way different timers. Several people having the same issue with no fix. Don’t buy one for this project.

[Qiaozhi]

I had installed the Every using that video as a reference. I can run the blink sketch and change timing if I want. But the nanopi sketch fails to run - I do see the listing in the editor ok. Im sending it back and ordered a 3.0 oldschool real deal card. The future is supposed to be the Every though.

OK - here's a possible solution ->

I note that the Nano Every has a clock frequency of 20MHz, whereas the standard Nano is 16MHz. In that case you will need to change line 14 in the sketch from:
const float clockCycle = 62.5E-9; // Time for one clock cycle (1/16MHz)
to:
const float clockCycle = 50.0E-9; // Time for one clock cycle (1/20MHz)

Otherwise all the timings will be screwed up.

[surfdetector]

I had installed the Every using that video as a reference. I can run the blink sketch and change timing if I want. But the nanopi sketch fails to run - I do see the listing in the editor ok. Im sending it back and ordered a 3.0 oldschool real deal card. The future is supposed to be the Every though.

What is happening when you try to upload the Sketch?

[bklein]

I had installed the Every using that video as a reference. I can run the blink sketch and change timing if I want. But the nanopi sketch fails to run - I do see the listing in the editor ok. Im sending it back and ordered a 3.0 oldschool real deal card. The future is supposed to be the Every though.